Stuck Door

[Canadian1968CoronetR/T]

New season just around the corner, I ended last year with a old problem returning, my passenger door would not close properly, with some help we got it to close better if you slammed it, you guessed it!!! now it is struck and I cannot open it, it is stuck good. Any suggestions how to get it open without damage to car and how to get it work the way it should. I have never no experience in this repair.

 

[BeastlyBirdie]

Well, try lifting/pushing down on the door while trying to open it. Usually doors not shutting due alignment of the striker and receiver. Slamming a door is generally a bad idea (for future reference), lol. There's other things it could be, including weatherstrip, door misalignment, and lock mech issues.

 

[Propwash]

Did you try jacking up the front or rear of the car? These big uni-bodies flex quite a bit when you put them in the air. Might give you enough play to get the door un- stuck.

If you're door's aligned correctly, my guess would be the latch mechanism mounted on the door jam is not aligned properly. Loosen the 3 screws and it will move up/down/in/out. It also could be you need to add or remove shims behind the mechanism to be more in line with the latch on the door.

 

[mmissile]

My door wouldn't latch closed on my 67. It turned out to be the spring-loaded, plastic piece on the door-side of the latch had worn to the point of not letting it click to the second position. Quick fix was to push the piece back, and insert a spacer to hold it there. Took 3 people[one ancient bodyguy included] over an hour to figure it out.

 

[mattsmopars]

I would suggest to remove the interior door panel and arm rest to see if you may have had a rod come off of the latch assembly. You may also be able to see what the problem is then.
Matt

 

[Deanfitz27]

Does anybody know how many shims are usually behind the latch on the door post?

 

[Yatzee]

To prevent any further damage, remove the seat out the drivers door and then remove the inner door panel for inspection of the rods and pivots for the latch. Be careful not to rip your door panel clips out of the backing. Unclip the release rod and gently push on the release lever while someone on the outside lifts on the door handle. A properly adjusted door should have the gaps at about the thickness of a paint stir stick at the back, front and bottom - about 3/16. To support a sagging door the use of a cheap scissor jack will support and gently lift it as you shoot for the right and even bottom gap. Use cardboard in the slot of the jack and let the door sit in the channel of the lift nose. Do not over tighten the hinge bolts as you may have to loosen them and retighten several times. In and out is done at the A-pillar bolts and forward and back is done on the attaching door door bolts fo the hinge This is a very tedious job but you'll get the hang as you go along. Without the pin mounted the door should mate properly to the opening. The pin can now be mounted and moved slightly up or down so it only slightly contacts the upper slot of the latch. The pin not only holds the door shut but also supports the end of the door especially on bumpy surfaces. If possible move the pin in or out until the body panel and the door panel are flush. Mine has only one shim behind the pin but you may have to experiment to prevent the end of the pin from contacting the inner surface (vertical) of the latch front and rear. Again, you must position the door squarely in it's opening before closure and opening will work satisfactorily. When done correctly, the top of the door below the drip rail will have the right gap, the bottom door gap will be even as will the front and rear gap. Open the door for the first time all the way very gently in case there is interference between the front of the door and the rear of the front fender and adjust accordingly.

 

[AR67GTX]

My door wouldn't latch closed on my 67. It turned out to be the spring-loaded, plastic piece on the door-side of the latch had worn to the point of not letting it click to the second position. Quick fix was to push the piece back, and insert a spacer to hold it there. Took 3 people[one ancient bodyguy included] over an hour to figure it out.

I encountered this same problem with my passenger door and it took me awhile to figure it out. Can't remember exactly how I fixed it but seems I had to disassemble the latch piece and clean out all the dried lubricant - do a little filing so the plastic would move freely on the spring - lubricate it back up and reinstall

 

[dvw]

It helps to know how the latch functions. When you move the release lever a second lever is moved by a spring in the latch. Just moving the manual lever does not guarantee that it will release. If the spring loaded lever is rusted , damaged or bound the door won't open. PB blaster is your friend. Hood latches work the same way. Take a look and you can see it easier to envision the door latch operation.
Doug

 

[alpaca andy]

Hey, If you cant get it open, I see your not far from National Moparts in Beaverton, Im sure we could get it open and fix the problem if you like 8)

Andy

 

[mopar 3 B]

You have just reached race car status. Leave the window down and crawl in.

Slamming the door to shut it is never a good Mopar thing. Adjusted properly it should latch with just a push. Door latch lubrication is covered in the general maintenance section of the FSM.

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

im sure he has fixed the problem as this thread is two yrs old