Sub Frame Connector- Gussets

[Dan64]

What connects the heavier sub frames?.Floor.

 

[snakeoil24]

Nothing that's why these earlier B bodies had so many problems with 1/4 panels buckling. Structural Book on these are in the mopar racers book says to weld in parallel steel stock that follows the dimension's of the sub frames in parallel to each side. Then tie the 4 interfaces with a plate or Torque box point for tie in. I used to crack the quarters just two inches back from the door pilar just in front of rear seat. When i used 2x3 notched and plated the torque box area problem greatly reduced. It has to be parallel on both sides right down to a 1/32 of an inch no out of square.

 

[snakeoil24]

Not trying to argue or say your wrong cause it makes sense to me too that it should work, but the source has to be a parallel not a 90 degree which is what the welding the us car tools rails is.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Mopar Performance Bolt-On Frame Connectors P4286868

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  Subframe Connectors, Bolt-On, Steel, Natural, 108 in. Wheelbase, Dodge, Plymouth, Pair
  
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Mopar Performance Bolt-On Frame Connectors

Part Type:Subframe Connectors, Bolt-On
Application:Find out if this fits your application

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Brand:Mopar Performance

Manufacturer's Part Number4286868

Part Type:Subframe Connectors, Bolt-On

Product Line:Mopar Performance Bolt-On Frame Connectors

Summit Racing Part Number:DCC-P4286868


Connector Finish:Natural

Connector Material:Steel

Mounting Hardware Included:Yes

Quantity:Sold as a pair.

Notes:Fits models with 108 in. wheelbase only.

In-Store Pickup:Choose In-store pick-up (OH, NV, GA, TX) on our web site.

These handy prefabricated bolt-on frame connector packages from Mopar Performance let you tie your front and rear frames longitudinally for less body flex. The packages include two connectors, brackets, and the necessary mounting hardware.

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This is what Chrysler would have installed.

 

[Dan64]

I get what your saying and i'm not trying to be difficult, but by welding the connecters to the floor you are "racking" all of the pieces together. I wish i could believe that bolt on's are just as strong, would have saved me laying on my back doing the work,lol.

 

[Dan64]

I don't understand what you mean by parallel not a 90 degree? They both go in the same spot. they are both parallel ,one on the left and one on the right running front to back. I'm sure we can both agree that any style sub frame connecter is better than no sub frame connecter.

 

[snakeoil24]

I don't understand what you mean by parallel not a 90 degree? They both go in the same spot. they are both parallel ,one on the left and one on the right running front to back. I'm sure we can both agree that any style sub frame connecter is better than no sub frame connecter.

Ok in the mopar book the two lengths of square or rectangle stock has to run in parallel to each other. So that means if you take a tape and check diagonal and the stock has to be even measurements across from each other say 50 inches at the Back end and same at front near the torsion bars. Also stock cant be twisted in any way weld in straight up using a water level and also use a small level across the stock so nothing is shifted or canted left or right straight up. Does that help some?

 

[gkent]

Well those US Car Tool connectors sure look parallel to me !!!

 

[dvw]

I cut the floor pan and slide 2x3 up into the slot. The bottom of the rails wer cut out as well. Drill out the spot welds at the front of the rea rail sides at the attachment to the floor pan . Now the vertical sides of the rear rails can clamp tightly against the 2x3. Weld the pan fully to the 2x3. Everything will be solid. the 1/4s panels are still laser straight after 700 passes.
Doug

 

[OKDart]

The only issue I see is drainage. I would cut the lower corners of each gusset at 45° angles rather than 90° to let moisture drain.

I don't think they will add strength though. The connectors are effectively boxed when welded to the floor (just like the factory rear frame rails) and are plenty rigid for the car.

 

[mrbone]

The only issue I see is drainage. I would cut the lower corners of each gusset at 45° angles rather than 90° to let moisture drain.

I don't think they will add strength though. The connectors are effectively boxed when welded to the floor (just like the factory rear frame rails) and are plenty rigid for the car.

Yes! I did think of that. I put cutout's on each bottom for water or moisture to escape.
Thanks for mentioning that.

 

[mrbone]

You can add gussets if you want. If I was going to add gussets I'd drill holes in the connectors and slide a small length of tubing thru the holes and then weld on both sides. That provides you with a gusset but it also gives you a pass thru in case you need to route wires or cables in those areas.

Hey Andy, originally I had that in mind. But after some thought I decided to skip the possibility of running wire down through.
You would need to cut an outlet at the rear with a 90 degree bend. It's only three feet and would be much easier to run conduit along side (if needed).
If it was longer I'd probably reconsider.

 

[mrbone]

Started welding some stiffeners and discovered my welder is not up to the job.
This is too much work for my little 115v Hobart 140.

What did you use to weld in you're frame connectors? Any MIG purchase recommendations?
Last week I wired a 240v outlet for a compressor and "new" welder just in case..

 

[Herr_Poopschitz]

What did you use to weld in you're frame connectors?

140 amp should be adequate unless your machine isn't working properly. How thick is the material??? What dia wire are you using?

I have 2x3 rectangular tubing through the floor in my car, not using the floor as the upper flange of the cross section as the Car Tool connectors are designed.

'Gussets' inside the channel do nothing but add weight. There is no load carried by them. Waste of time and effort.

Idealized, the floor carries shear loads in plane, and the connectors carry bending, tension, and compression loads. Cross members carry the lateral loads in a similar manner as the longitudinal members.

 

[ckessel]

Could be that there is not enough juice to feed the welder. My little Lincoln spec'd a 25 amp service but the main problem was I had it on the end of the power run due to convenience. I could barely do a trunk floor with it cranked up. Put it right by the service panel and bingo! Looked like I knew how to weld.

 

[mrbone]

Yep, you were right.
Moved from the garage to the shop and it's much better. Thanks