Summit Racing Digital CD Ignition

[sicksatellite]

Hey guys, has anyone tried this CD Ignition box?? I run MSD myself, but for $130, my truck might get one..lol

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850610/

 

[wedge5]

I don't have one but you are right $130 is worth a try. I buy alot a Jeg's stuff which is basically the same as the Summit stuff. I am not 100% sure but I would guess that some of their copycat stuff is made by the same company that makes the stuff for the name brand company. Any part can be junk no matter what the cost.

 

[Jake]

SUM 850610 digital CD ignition

Raising this thread back from the dead....muuaahahahaha:grin:

I installed the summit street n strip ignition (part # SUM 850610) in my 1971 Satellite about a week ago. Install was pretty easy, my first time wiring up an ignition system like this. Directions were pretty easy to understand, even for my A.D.H.D. brain! Once I had everything wired up correctly she fired right up!! Amazing since the car hadn't ran in about a year! I was extremely excited, the 440 had never started so easy, didn't even have to pump the pedal once before starting. Just blip the key and VARROOM. The prospects for the future looked bright.:headbang:

Well, that was the good news.

This past Friday night I fired her up and moved her into the driveway. Then suddenly it just shut off. Definately have fuel flow... I checked all my fuzes, swapped in a fresh battery, swapped in a new coil, went through the Summit troubleshooting procedures over and over and I could not get any spark. WTF?????? I called the Summit tech line and they are sending out a new box, I have to drop the old one in the mail today. Anyway, that sucks. I hope it's just a case of a "bad box" and the new one I get works and doesn't shell out.

I love having this old girl and it's been a labor of love, but sometimes I am starting to feel like it's been a lot of labor and not much love :angry1:

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I have had TWO summit racing ignition boxes go out with minimal usage, one not even operational off the start (made by Mallory for Summit). Went with an MSD6AL (old stock) and lasted for 500 miles until I needed a new replacement, which was overnighted by MSD in their new updated digital version. I would stay away with the summit racing ignition boxes. Summit has fantastic customer service though and had no issue on refunding me my purchase price upon receiving the ignition box (in which they paid return shipping for). New ignition box has been great ever since.

 

[Jake]

Summit has fantastic customer service though and had no issue on refunding me my purchase price upon receiving the ignition box (in which they paid return shipping for) .

I agree, their customer service has been real good to me so far. No complaints there. But if Summit box #2 takes a dump, MSD may be the next step. Glad #1 died in my driveway and not somewhere else.

 

[Jake]

So, Mr. UPS man dropped off a package from the Summit peeps yesterday evening :grin:

The nice thing about these ignitions is that they have quick disconnect plugs for the wiring harnesses except for the 12v power wires. I left all the old wiring from the last Summit box installed so I didn't have to do much work to get the new one in, just splice in the new wires to the existing 12v power wires from the old box to the new one.

This time, I picked up a battery ground strap from AutoZone and bolted it from the back of the right bank cylinder head to one of the heater box bolts on the firewall. One of the key points in the instructions for these ignitions is that they stress a ground strap from the engine to the chassis. They only grounding point for the engine that I could find before was a small wire that ran from the negative battery terminal (which is connected on the block) to the radiator crossmember. So if the engine wasn't grounded well enough before, it should be now right? Anyway.

I installed the new ignition box, and made my connections. After checking everything was in place I crossed my fingers, hit the key and..... Fire in the hole! :headbang: So this confirmed the first Summit box took a dump. Here's to hoping that this new Summit ignition box will last more than a week.:beerchug:

 

[ArtH]

They only grounding point for the engine that I could find before was a small wire that ran from the negative battery terminal (which is connected on the block) to the radiator crossmember.

Hmmmm. That don't sound right. You should have a large black cable going from the Neg (-) terminal of the battery that bolts to the engine block or a cylinder head. That's a pretty crucial ground especially for the starter motor. Usually, there is a smaller wire coming off that same terminal connector (the battery) that goes to the body or frame. My car has a braided ground cable that connects the firewall (oops we call them bulkheads now) to the back of the engine block as well. That's pretty standard.

You can fry an electronic device if it's not properly grounded. Even though the part may bolt to the grounded firewall or fender well, I still like to run a separate ground wire from the device (voltage regulator for example) to a good ground. Make sure the connectors are clean as well as the surface you ground to. Too much paint can mess with your ground.

We see quite a few drive-ability problems due to faulty grounds on new cars. They are loaded with modules and connector and sensors and can drive you crazy trying to figure out even with computer diagnostics.

 

[1toolguy]

I ran one of the summit CDI's for a few years (until it died about a year ago) and the car ran pretty good and idled smoother except for some full throttle pinging that I just could not find. I swapped back to the chrome box and suddenly no ping AND the engine revs quicker and 500rpm higher than it would with the Summit.

 

[Jake]

Quote:They only grounding point for the engine that I could find before was a small wire that ran from the negative battery terminal (which is connected on the block) to the radiator crossmember.

Hmmmm. That don't sound right. You should have a large black cable going from the Neg (-) terminal of the battery that bolts to the engine block or a cylinder head.Usually, there is a smaller wire coming off that same terminal connector (the battery) that goes to the body or frame.

My negative bat cable setup is exactly this way, although it is actually connected to the front of the left bank cylinder head, not the block as I had stated. Sorry if my original post was confusing. Although, now I have added an additional ground from the back of the right bank cylinder head to one of the heater box bolts on the firewall, bulkhead, whatever you call it.