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Having problems with new MSD plug-n-play distributor and blaster 2 tube coil kit from Jegs. Installed into70 Bee with previous electronic ignition?

SuperBeeFan

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I know this has been gone over several times over the years and appreciate everything everyone inputs. Sorry for being lengthy. I’ll include pictures of what I had ignition initial and new

I had a running driver(70 factory (NOT NUMBERs MATCHED) 383 4 speed bee with factory 3.91 gears, that I had a shop install a new replacement rebuilt 383 balanced, roller cam long block. The bee also received new replacement clutch kit and new flywheel from Brewer’s Performance. I upgraded to a new Brawler 750 double mechanical secondaries and electric choke, with Torker intake also installed a new Carter electric fuel pump and Mancini racing adjustable throttle cable bracket and return springs.
I wanted to get new engine broken in, but having a little issue.

I decided to upgrade the ignition to MSD plug and play distributior, came with a plug everything needed kit WITHOUT an MSD box for 383. I informed him that the directions should bypass the resistor. the The shop mechanic has everything installed, but the MSD instructions don’t really mention to bypass the ballast resistor OR what should be removed and have seen many threads and videos to bypass resistor, or remove chrome and or orange box?

The mechanic has the wires off the resistor mounted to the firewall. He’s just not sure if exactly if resistor wires jumper together.
He seems to be having an issue loosing current to start.

There was a thread in A bodies for a poster individual who said that the round cylinder coils usually still need connection to the resistor? The mechanic doesn’t want to damage any of the new wiring. Or toast the coil.

The mechanic is has been in the hot rodding and muscle car scene for many decades. And from what I’ve seen go through his shop, believe in his work but He’s more of a GM guy. I know, I know. The guy I was going to do the work, moved away and the I wanted to get it done before Winter. Initially I was going to stick with my Mopar basic electric ignition but decided It needed upgrades. And my wife is having a major surgery. And going to be out of commission for at least 3-4 months.

1st pict is what was There running and driving into their shop.

Next 5 pictures- New MSD ignition kit from Jegs as offered 383

Next 4 pictures-new MSD kit installed.

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Break-in an engine with an ignition system that's uncertain ? RE-install the known, working system. Break-in the engine. THEN... figure out where the install went wrong, if at all. We've all heard of "new" parts that didn't work.
 
If you do 50 things at once, and it doesn't work. You now have 50 things to think about what's wrong. ( told to me years ago in my youth by a seasoned mechanic )
 
Well, that’s a good point. Could remove everything and reinstall the previous existing, but thought the timing etc. would be better for roller cam and mechanical secondaries to get it dialed in possibly would be better, then what was previously existing. But at this point I guess getting the new engine started and broken in is better. And try and figure it out after. Thanks
 
The coil specs say- use resistor with points.
So jump the resistor wires together and fire it up.
This isn't the first time someone put a new distributor and coil on a new build. You'll be fine.
 
The best carb you can use is pictured in post #1. Changing it would be a backwards move! It is also a mech sec carb, by the way.

I think if folks had a chance to read the pathetic instructions MSD provides before buying their products, they would not buy them.....
 
SBF,
You have paid a lot of money for an ign system that could have been duplicated for a LOT less. $620 for the POS dist, that uses a poorly designed reluctor. The Chrys factory design is better & more accurate cyl-to-cyl firing. I see the instructions have still not been corrected, vac adv listed as 15 lbs of vac. No not 15 lbs, 15 " of Hg. Considering that these dists are most likely going to be used on performance engines [ with consequently lower idle vacuum ], it is just PATHETIC that an adj VA unit is not supplied to adjust for idle vacuum. That is not the end of the bad news.
You could have bought the MSD # 83647 ign module for $160. It is the same type as in the new dist; it can be hooked up to the existing Chrys elec dist. The Blaster 2 is a canister coil. Far less efficient than an E core coil. Spark current is 140mA, v 300 mA for the Blaster 8207 E core coil which could be used.
MSD claim the dist has a HEI cap. Nope. HEI cap has 4 hold downs, 5" diam. Not 3+" diam & 2 hold downs.

If you choose to use the Blaster 2 coil, it does NOT use a bal res.
 
SBF,
You have paid a lot of money for an ign system that could have been duplicated for a LOT less. $620 for the POS dist, that uses a poorly designed reluctor. The Chrys factory design is better & more accurate cyl-to-cyl firing. I see the instructions have still not been corrected, vac adv listed as 15 lbs of vac. No not 15 lbs, 15 " of Hg. Considering that these dists are most likely going to be used on performance engines [ with consequently lower idle vacuum ], it is just PATHETIC that an adj VA unit is not supplied to adjust for idle vacuum. That is not the end of the bad news.
You could have bought the MSD # 83647 ign module for $160. It is the same type as in the new dist; it can be hooked up to the existing Chrys elec dist. The Blaster 2 is a canister coil. Far less efficient than an E core coil. Spark current is 140mA, v 300 mA for the Blaster 8207 E core coil which could be used.
MSD claim the dist has a HEI cap. Nope. HEI cap has 4 hold downs, 5" diam. Not 3+" diam & 2 hold downs.

If you choose to use the Blaster 2 coil, it does NOT use a bal res.
 
Keep it simple - Let’s get it running first



The control unit is built into the distributor - Requires a FULL 12 Volts to run

The instructions have the red wire positive coming off the distributor to the positive side of the coil. The red wire requires 12 Volts to the distributor

So if you are using your power supply , or factory wiring from your ballast resistor to the positive side of the coil , yes the voltage is reduced based on the ballast resistor installed

Hence , either connecting the ignition switch on/off feed wire directly to the positive side of coil itself , eliminating the ballast resistor all together

Or like most will do , eliminate the resistance wire built inside the ballast resistor and replace it with a hard wire for that factory look , reconnect your factory wiring harness plugs , and now you will supply a full 12-15 Volts to the positive side of coil thru the ignition switch

Which in turn will supply a full 12-15 Volts thru the red wire coming off the distributor that you connected to the positive side of coil

BOTTOM LINE

Your ignition module inside the distributor requires a full 12-15 Volts to properly run that is keyed on/off thru the red wire coming off the distributor regardless of what ignition coil
 
Last edited:
I have that same distributor on one of my cars. Ballast resistor wires need to be jumpered together. Use a Blaster II coil 82023 if standing upright, or the 8222 if it is mounted horizontally (this one is sealed). Orange to - coil, red to + coil, black is ground.
 
SBF,
You have paid a lot of money for an ign system that could have been duplicated for a LOT less. $620 for the POS dist, that uses a poorly designed reluctor. The Chrys factory design is better & more accurate cyl-to-cyl firing. I see the instructions have still not been corrected, vac adv listed as 15 lbs of vac. No not 15 lbs, 15 " of Hg. Considering that these dists are most likely going to be used on performance engines [ with consequently lower idle vacuum ], it is just PATHETIC that an adj VA unit is not supplied to adjust for idle vacuum. That is not the end of the bad news.
You could have bought the MSD # 83647 ign module for $160. It is the same type as in the new dist; it can be hooked up to the existing Chrys elec dist. The Blaster 2 is a canister coil. Far less efficient than an E core coil. Spark current is 140mA, v 300 mA for the Blaster 8207 E core coil which could be used.
MSD claim the dist has a HEI cap. Nope. HEI cap has 4 hold downs, 5" diam. Not 3+" diam & 2 hold downs.

If you choose to use the Blaster 2 coil, it does NOT use a bal res.
SBF,
You have paid a lot of money for an ign system that could have been duplicated for a LOT less. $620 for the POS dist, that uses a poorly designed reluctor. The Chrys factory design is better & more accurate cyl-to-cyl firing. I see the instructions have still not been corrected, vac adv listed as 15 lbs of vac. No not 15 lbs, 15 " of Hg. Considering that these dists are most likely going to be used on performance engines [ with consequently lower idle vacuum ], it is just PATHETIC that an adj VA unit is not supplied to adjust for idle vacuum. That is not the end of the bad news.
You could have bought the MSD # 83647 ign module for $160. It is the same type as in the new dist; it can be hooked up to the existing Chrys elec dist. The Blaster 2 is a canister coil. Far less efficient than an E core coil. Spark current is 140mA, v 300 mA for the Blaster 8207 E core coil which could be used.
MSD claim the dist has a HEI cap. Nope. HEI cap has 4 hold downs, 5" diam. Not 3+" diam & 2 hold downs.

If you choose to use the Blaster 2 coil, it does NOT use a bal res.
Thanks Geoff 2,
I had actually done some research on several of the options for distributors and they all to seem have pros and cons. I also when came time to order updated ignition system, including some of the issues problems of electronic mopar module orange boxes made from overseas. Plus I wanted to clean up the firewall & inner fenders some. This MSD kit from Jegs, included the Blaster 2 cylinder coil and NOT the other Blaster 2 square style (see picture) my understanding is the MSD blaster 2 cylinder coil doesn’t need a resistor?

I was thinking Of less expensive options, But supplies at a lot of the places were Out of stock and back ordered individually and or not in a complete kit. The MSD system Jegs had I purchased was yes over priced but have also heard positive things too.
I was trying to not have to carry a spare resistor or the lesser quality module boxes. Initially wanted the Revanator set up but read on site, Out of stock and threads that they have been not providing quality customer service, if they return calls at all.

So with this MSD system, pictured on my bee, my understanding is:
1) after the ready to run distributor is installed and connected with the included 3 wire harness and yes will have to connect factory Tac, too, that in order to work correctly:
A) the resistor needs to be removed from firewall and resistor wires need to have a jumper wire between the two connectors?
B) Next, the existing previous installed mopar electronic orange-chrome or in this case Grey box and harness that went to previous electronic mopar distributor, needs to be completely removed from the firewall? Is that correct?

48A94992-08AC-40B8-AB42-8D4476ED151E.jpeg
 
Keep it simple - Let’s get it running first



The control unit is built into the distributor - Requires a FULL 12 Volts to run

The instructions have the red wire positive coming off the distributor to the positive side of the coil - The red wire requires 12 Volts to the distributor

So if you are using your power supply , or factory wiring from your ballast resistor to the positive side of the coil , yes the voltage is reduced based on the ballast resistor installed

Hence , either connecting the ignition switch on/off feed wire directly to the positive side of coil itself , eliminating the ballast resistor all together

Or like most will do , eliminate the resistance wire built inside the ballast resistor and replace it with a hard wire for that factory look , reconnect your factory wiring harness plugs , and now you will supply a full 12-15 Volts to the positive side of coil thru the ignition switch

Which in turn will supply a full 12-15 Volts thru the red wire coming off the distributor that you connected to the positive side of coil

BOTTOM LINE

Your ignition module inside the distributor requires a full 12-15 Volts to properly run that is keyed on/off thru the red wire coming off the distributor regardless of what ignition coil
Thanks Bee1971 for the information.
I followed up with Geoff 2’s replies and there’s some good information.
Thank you!
 
I have that same distributor on one of my cars. Ballast resistor wires need to be jumpered together. Use a Blaster II coil 82023 if standing upright, or the 8222 if it is mounted horizontally (this one is sealed). Orange to - coil, red to + coil, black is ground.
Thanks hunt2elk for the information. I replied to Geoff 2’s post and there’s some updated information, that might be helpful as to my insights. This is why I was questioning the fact IF the MSD Blaster 2 canister or Cylinder coil still utilized the ballast resistor because of this post I found on Abodies website. (See attachment)

91D7E21F-14CB-448E-851B-4D281F7B5B81.jpeg
 
Thanks hunt2elk for the information. I replied to Geoff 2’s post and there’s some updated information, that might be helpful as to my insights. This is why I was questioning the fact IF the MSD Blaster 2 canister or Cylinder coil still utilized the ballast resistor because of this post I found on Abodies website. (See attachment)

View attachment 1522192
The coil you use determines if you need a ballast resistor, or what ohm ballast resister, not the distributor or control. MSD recommends the Blaster II coil, which needs no ballast.
 
Keep it simple - Let’s get it running first



The control unit is built into the distributor - Requires a FULL 12 Volts to run

The instructions have the red wire positive coming off the distributor to the positive side of the coil - The red wire requires 12 Volts to the distributor

So if you are using your power supply , or factory wiring from your ballast resistor to the positive side of the coil , yes the voltage is reduced based on the ballast resistor installed

Hence , either connecting the ignition switch on/off feed wire directly to the positive side of coil itself , eliminating the ballast resistor all together

Or like most will do , eliminate the resistance wire built inside the ballast resistor and replace it with a hard wire for that factory look , reconnect your factory wiring harness plugs , and now you will supply a full 12-15 Volts to the positive side of coil thru the ignition switch

Which in turn will supply a full 12-15 Volts thru the red wire coming off the distributor that you connected to the positive side of coil

BOTTOM LINE

Your ignition module inside the distributor requires a full 12-15 Volts to properly run that is keyed on/off thru the red wire coming off the distributor regardless of what ignition coil
Thanks, so then I remove the ballast resistor from the firewall and wire jump the ballast resistor AND also remove the Mopar electronic box on the firewall too, the orange, chrome or in my case (the charcoal one Below the ballast resistor AND wire harnesses connected to it; Correct?
Thanks
 
The coil you use determines if you need a ballast resistor, or what ohm ballast resister, not the distributor or control. MSD recommends the Blaster II coil, which needs no ballast.
Thanks hunt2elk,
I see MSD has two variations of the Blaster 2 coils, canister and the other one square style I included a picture of.
 
The coil you use determines if you need a ballast resistor, or what ohm ballast resister, not the distributor or control. MSD recommends the Blaster II coil, which needs no ballast.
So, does that mean I also can remove the mopar, electronic module and plug pin harness I have mounted below the ballast resistor too?
Thanks
 
Reread posts 5, 9 and 10, all you need to know.
Thanks hunt2elk for the information. I replied to Geoff 2’s post and there’s some updated information, that might be helpful as to my insights. This is why I was questioning the fact IF the MSD Blaster 2 canister or Cylinder coil still utilized the ballast resistor because of this post I found on Abodies website. (See attachment)

View attachment 1522192
This is simply a case of reading more carefully.
"If using a factory coil, or any coil that requires a BR......"
This obviously does not apply to you.


Put a jumper between the BR wires and hookup the RTR distributor. And coil.
Fire the car up. Crack a beer.

Further more, Holley style carbs have proven themselves to be the best designed carbs on the market. But don't trust me, just go to any race track.
Oh, and they'll all be winning with MSD products as well :thumbsup:
 
Would also recommend replacing wire with new. If having strange electrical problems.

Had charging problem caused by wires having internal corrosion. Outer insulation looked ok, but inside the wire was discolored with some green here and there. Also had to use relay for full battery voltage for coil and alternator as all connections and switch were old and discolored in addition to bad wire. 71 Plymouth FYI
 
Reread posts 5, 9 and 10, all you need to know.

This is simply a case of reading more carefully.
"If using a factory coil, or any coil that requires a BR......"
This obviously does not apply to you.


Put a jumper between the BR wires and hookup the RTR distributor. And coil.
Fire the car up. Crack a beer.

Further more, Holley style carbs have proven themselves to be the best designed carbs on the market. But don't trust me, just go to any race track.
Oh, and they'll all be winning with MSD products as well
Reread posts 5, 9 and 10, all you need to know.

This is simply a case of reading more carefully.
"If using a factory coil, or any coil that requires a BR......"
This obviously does not apply to you.


Put a jumper between the BR wires and hookup the RTR distributor. And coil.
Fire the car up. Crack a beer.

Further more, Holley style carbs have proven themselves to be the best designed carbs on the market. But don't trust me, just go to any race track.
Oh, and they'll all be winning with MSD products as well :thumbsup:
Reread posts 5, 9 and 10, all you need to know.

This is simply a case of reading more carefully.
"If using a factory coil, or any coil that requires a BR......"
This obviously does not apply to you.


Put a jumper between the BR wires and hookup the RTR distributor. And coil.
Fire the car up. Crack a beer.

Further more, Holley style carbs have proven themselves to be the best designed carbs on the market. But don't trust me, just go to any race track.
Oh, and they'll all be winning with MSD products as well :thumbsup:
Thank you RemCharger. I follow the information there. My only additional question is: Do I also remove the mopar electronic module and pin harness from the firewall along with removing the ballast resistor, with the MSD kit? (Picture attached) Thanks.

8E0D45E1-0627-453C-85A0-E5616567AB95.jpeg
 
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