Road Grabber
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Is yours a red/black wire setup? I’ve heard they swap from any other red/black electronic distributor?
Sunday afternoon and no spark.... 440 6 bbl
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Sixpactogo
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Road Grabber
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Good to know. Thanks
Road Grabber
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I have this as well. He is using a dual ballast resistor. Is that not different?
Daves69
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Seems to me it's unnecessary for a 4 pin ECU on a '69, no?
I'm thinking L1 being in the key "on/run" position and not getting voltage would be an issue to find out why not.
This has voltage with key "on/run" and key "start" position?
Other checks you might make.....
Continuity for both sides of the distributor plug.
Engine grounding to body.
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Yep, one picture shows the dual ballast and another of his shows a 4 pin ECU.... messed up..
P Dubya
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New pickup coil from NAPA (Echlin) shows resistance through the coil.
Maybe I'll have time later this weekend to install but I still think I has some other wiring issues. I bought this car a few years ago and have not changed anything as far as wiring but that does not explain why I have a 4 pin ECU and 4 blade resistor. Would be nice to get this all sorted out and reliable, righting the wrongs of a previous owner along the way!
Maybe I'll have time later this weekend to install but I still think I has some other wiring issues. I bought this car a few years ago and have not changed anything as far as wiring but that does not explain why I have a 4 pin ECU and 4 blade resistor. Would be nice to get this all sorted out and reliable, righting the wrongs of a previous owner along the way!
P Dubya
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Ok... Pickup coil is installed but I am struggling with the wiring and schematics. I'm color blind so that adds another level of challenge. I am seriously considering buying a points type distributor so I can feed it directly off the battery just to get this running. I also ordered a new ECM through NAPA and I just noticed it is a 5 pin... This mess will drive me to drinkin'....
P Dubya
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My wife is ever so pleased with me right now for having the entire ignition/charge harness laying on the table....
If the individual wires have no resistance/opens I will reinstall but I still feel like I am having a wiring problem. The center/middle bulkhead connector is the harness I have out. Can anyone tell me anything to check for there? Is the fusible link in this harness where the ignition gets its power from? It has continuity/no resistance.
If the individual wires have no resistance/opens I will reinstall but I still feel like I am having a wiring problem. The center/middle bulkhead connector is the harness I have out. Can anyone tell me anything to check for there? Is the fusible link in this harness where the ignition gets its power from? It has continuity/no resistance.
Continuity/no resistance mean opposite things. The fusible link should show some resistance, or continuity. If it doesn't, and is open, then it is bad. Looks good in your pic, usually they burn open when they fail.
Daves69
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P Dubya
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Defined not an electronics guy but this is what I get on the fusible link with meter set to auto range/ohms
Road Grabber
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You would not get continuity with a broken circuit in the fusible link. If there was NO change then there’s a problem.
I have a five prong ECM that uses a two prong ballast resistor. It works fine when wired correctly. You just don’t use the green wire as shown above.
I see a dual ballast resistor in your photo. That wire setup has a different wiring setup than the four prong ECM usage. You need to wire the setup for the dual or change to a single ballast resistor.
You have to separate the wires in the harness and confirm the wires go to the correct locations.
You also have to confirm with the schematic which wires at the ballast are the ignition 1 and ignition 2 because you did not check the voltage readings correctly at the ballast previously. The single blue wires is NOT ignition 2.
Follow the provided instructions for installation and use the schematic to confirm the wires are correct. Assume nothing! You u could have had them placed at the wrong locations to begin with. The ignition one and two are in line with the resistor on the same side not opposite each other like it appears in your photo.
If you want to call me as you check this I would be glad to help. Just send a PM. A lot of information provided. It’s just been I would think confusing to follow.
Either way unravel the harness. Confirm where the wires lead and follow the diagram. Make sure you have a good ground for the ECM.
I have a five prong ECM that uses a two prong ballast resistor. It works fine when wired correctly. You just don’t use the green wire as shown above.
I see a dual ballast resistor in your photo. That wire setup has a different wiring setup than the four prong ECM usage. You need to wire the setup for the dual or change to a single ballast resistor.
You have to separate the wires in the harness and confirm the wires go to the correct locations.
You also have to confirm with the schematic which wires at the ballast are the ignition 1 and ignition 2 because you did not check the voltage readings correctly at the ballast previously. The single blue wires is NOT ignition 2.
Follow the provided instructions for installation and use the schematic to confirm the wires are correct. Assume nothing! You u could have had them placed at the wrong locations to begin with. The ignition one and two are in line with the resistor on the same side not opposite each other like it appears in your photo.
If you want to call me as you check this I would be glad to help. Just send a PM. A lot of information provided. It’s just been I would think confusing to follow.
Either way unravel the harness. Confirm where the wires lead and follow the diagram. Make sure you have a good ground for the ECM.
Sixpactogo
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P Dubya
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Yes... I have a (very) little knowledge of this ignition system and hopefully with the immense amount of knowledge out there and the wonderful denizens of the internet that share their knowledge I may end up with quite a bit better understanding of this system...
If you would like to hop on a plane from Down Under and visit the corn fields of Iowa for some ON SITE testing and repair I have an extra bedroom or two... Hot meals and whiskey too!
Your fuse link is good. If you take the meter off of auto range and set to the lowest scale, you will get a small number. Regardless, the link is showing good. You would not have power anywhere if it was blown as well.
P Dubya
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Progress.... Progress is good right? I want to thank you all for the help. Private messages, diagrams, phone calls and text messages, texted pictures and videos are a life saver.... It all has really helped. I'm not out of the woods yet but I am so much farther along than I was. I now have a nice blue spark from the coil wire to ground! In my mind that tells me that the wiring, ECU, pickup coil and ignition coil are working. Now for the bad.... When cranking and looking for spark at coil wire I was able to see distributor cap physically moving with the rotation of the rotor. Another problem for another day! In the back of my mind it makes me question if this entire no start issue was all in the distributor???
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