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Super stock springs-How to install?

Doesn't the 62-63 B's have a 20" front segment with the 64-65 having a 21" and 66 up have a 22"? The 62-65 have a 35" rear segment and the 66 up have a 36". The E cars are 22/35. All the 'A' body cars are 20/35 and is why they should bolt into the 62-63's without having to worry about the front hanger? I'm all about moving the rear axle forward along with moving the engine back and dealing with all the mounts. Installing a 66 up K frame into the 65 and earlier cars will move the engine back about 1" or so and messing with the trans mount isn't all that hard. Any time you move several hundred pounds of iron closer to the rear axle is going to help traction....

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Anyone know where I can buy a set of stock shackles for the rear of a 64 fury to install SS springs? I appreciate this thread being started, as of us need help on installing new SS springs.
So you have access to a welding machine and know how to weld? One way to beat expensive parts....
 
Honestly, cranky, I don't know. Not without a bunch of research. Too many dif cars, and sets of springs.
On both my 63 (long, long ago), and the 64 I have now, I mounted up SS springs. As long as the springs are the right part #s, for the mid-60's they should bolt right up. Other years of Mopars, I do not know. As far as I know, the SS springs came about solely because of the 62-65 B-body cars any way.
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Hey, Al! You haven't been forgotten.
 
When installing these new S/S springs, remember, pinion snubbers and S/S springs are a big no no. Throw that pinion snubber on the swap meet table.
Got a friend named Danny with a 68 RR and he was running a pinion snubber. He wanted to try out the SS springs , so he installed a set. I watched his car launch and it looked like a bucking bronco. He said it was hooking good and felt fine. His wife was videoing the runs that he was making and he could not believe his eyes. Looked as I described. I seen a couple of Mopar factory racers, Arlen Vankee and Dave Duel of the Dragin Wagon and I told them what was going on and they both laughed and told me to tell the guy to take off the snubber, because your suspension was loading and unloading. I went back to Danny and told him to loose the snubber and he had to be talked into it for one run. He came back with the best et and 60 foot ever for that car. He sold the pinion snubber. Got a problem? , don't ask Joe Blow, ask a friendly factory racer.
 
Anything is possible. Two sides on every coin.

When I had my 63 Sport Fury ragtop, just had the stock snubber on it. Just a bit of street racing, but guys who watched me against someone else, would rag me. Ask me what the deal was with my car? Didn't even know, until they told me.
On hard launches, most other cars would tail drop on the throttle hit. My 63, they said the rear of the car would raise 4-6 inches, on the launch. I've seen my share of Mopars at the drag strips, doing the same thing.
 
Doesn't the 62-63 B's have a 20" front segment with the 64-65 having a 21" and 66 up have a 22"? The 62-65 have a 35" rear segment and the 66 up have a 36". The E cars are 22/35. All the 'A' body cars are 20/35 and is why they should bolt into the 62-63's without having to worry about the front hanger? I'm all about moving the rear axle forward along with moving the engine back and dealing with all the mounts. Installing a 66 up K frame into the 65 and earlier cars will move the engine back about 1" or so and messing with the trans mount isn't all that hard. Any time you move several hundred pounds of iron closer to the rear axle is going to help traction....

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So you have access to a welding machine and know how to weld? One way to beat expensive parts....

Yes, exactly. But remember, E body super stock springs will also be 20/35, ALL super stock springs use a 20 inch front segment which is why people think that they are "A Body" springs. E body SS springs should have a 1 inch rear spring eye, the A body SS springs will be 7/8.
 
I just got under my 1962 Sport Fury drag car/ pro street/ rat rod and looked a little more carefully. The reason the hangers and shackles are welded is that they are welded to the frame rails (they have been moved inboard 4 or 4-1/2", each side, to accommodate the much larger tires and wheels). The stock brackets are still on the axle housing with the new ones welded right beside (inside) them. The info y'all have furnished about the front segment being 20" on the earlier B Bodies and the back segment being 35" should really help when I go to change them out.

Thanks very much,
al_wildman
 
Haven't messed with the set-up you've got (not that lucky), though it's all relative. Clearances, and locating the rear axle where you want/need it, will tell you what springs you want. I had wondered if your welded brackets were for a shortened axle, or the like...just getting the springs out of the way for your tires.
Unless there's something I don't know, your still after the same spring alignment, and finished rear setting at the shackles, meaning the angle the shackles sit, with the car's weight on 'em.
Just need to measure things out, keeping it all aligned.

From looking at stuff on this site, seems there's plenty of folks who can tell you what results you'll get from those springs mounted in right.
 
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