Switch to larger oil pan?

[needacheaperhob]

Hi, I have a '69 road runner (383 4 spd) with the 4 qt oil pan. I noticed a very small drip at the back of the pan so I was going to drop it and switch out the gasket but then remembered seeing something on here about a 6 qt oil pan is actually better for these engines than the 4 qt due to the pickup or something along those lines?

Could someone confirm if this is true as I'd just go to the 6 qt pan since I'm going to remove it to switch the gasket anyways.

The car is not used for racing, 383 was rebuilt around 750 miles ago.

Thank you

 

[WileERobby]

You can get 6-qt oil pans at several suppliers, such as 440Source

 

[R413]

Make sure the. Oil is not coming from above like valve covers, oil press sender, or rear of intake

Do you have the stock 402 pan now? It will be stamped into the rear area in big numbers. I would leave it on there. Your 383 not for racing don't need a 6 qt pan.

If you swap you need a different pickup also.

 

[needacheaperhob]

Make sure the. Oil is not coming from above like valve covers, oil press sender, or rear of intake

Do you have the stock 402 pan now? It will be stamped into the rear area in big numbers. I would leave it on there. Your 383 not for racing don't need a 6 qt pan.

If you swap you need a different picku

Yes it's a 402 pan. I'll leave it as is then.

I'm hoping its a pan gasket and not a rear main seal. I can't fix that myself and I'm sure that is not cheap.

After the engine warms up it drips from the back of the pan. The complete width of the back of the oil pan appears wet/damp but it doesn't seem to have droplets visible there.
The indentation in the heads of the 2 center oil pan bolts fill with oil then drip/cascade down over the windage tray, it then drips from the center of the tray (hole?) and the tray edges onto the ground. Mostly the tray edges.

I had checked for leaks from the back of the valve covers but thats not it.

The pan bolts appear tight.

I had found an earlier post from someone with the exact issue I have, it had great pictures, detail, identical to my issue but now I can't find it.

If a rear main is the issue...thats costly (pulling the engine etc) I wont be driving it this year as thats not in the budget.

 

[493 Mike]

Yes it's a 402 pan. I'll leave it as is then.

I'm hoping its a pan gasket and not a rear main seal. I can't fix that myself and I'm sure that is not cheap.

After the engine warms up it drips from the back of the pan. The complete width of the back of the oil pan appears wet/damp but it doesn't seem to have droplets visible there.
The indentation in the heads of the 2 center oil pan bolts fill with oil then drip/cascade down over the windage tray, it then drips from the center of the tray (hole?) and the tray edges onto the ground. Mostly the tray edges.

I had checked for leaks from the back of the valve covers but thats not it.

The pan bolts appear tight.

I had found an earlier post from someone with the exact issue I have, it had great pictures, detail, identical to my issue but now I can't find it.

If a rear main is the issue...thats costly (pulling the engine etc) I wont be driving it this year as thats not in the budget.

You do not have to remove the engine to R&R the rear main seal.
Mike

 

[needacheaperhob]

Ok, thats good. I did a search on here and people had stated the egine needed to be removed. That is definately good news.

You do not have to remove the engine to R&R the rear main seal.
Mike

 

[R413]

How bad is this leak? You can make a diaper for the area and change it before it is fully soaked. Done it before, it works.

 

[needacheaperhob]

How bad is this leak? You can make a diaper for the area and change it before it is fully soaked. Done it before, it works.

So then i could just keep the oil topped up and drive as is until it's repaied?

 

[needacheaperhob]

So then i could just keep the oil topped up and drive as is until it's repaied?

How bad is this leak? You can make a diaper for the area and change it before it is fully soaked. Done it before, it works.

It drips a drop every 10-15 seconds

 

[R413]

Leaks way too much, No that's not going to work. And if it leaks that much it's probably the rear main, because there is oil pressure there.

Did you tighten the oil pan bolts?

 

[Daves69]

Some info at hamtramck-historical on seal replacement if it helps......

The 1970 Hamtramck Registry "1970 DODGE MODEL TSBs Index" Page

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I have a different opinion….but it’s not my money. I would add the 6 qt and 440 (longer) pickup tube and weld on a factory style “Hemi” skid plate on the engine cross member. For a quicker/cheaper fix, use what you have and it does sound like a rear main seal. To drop the oil pan, you can separate the pitman arm and idler arm from the center link bar by unbolting them and smacking the side REALLY hard with a small sledge hammer. The shock will drop them free. This gives you enough clearance to remove the oil pan and not mess up your front end alignment

 

[needacheaperhob]

Leaks way too much, No that's not going to work. And if it leaks that much it's probably the rear main, because there is oil pressure there.

Did you tighten the oil pan bolts?

Been out there a few hours, everything is tight. So it appears it the main seal.

My oil pressure gauge is showing at 75-80 when warm.

Well, buy my dream car after all these years and its goinf to have to sit for a while. Gotta love it! LoL

 

[needacheaperhob]

I have a different opinion….but it’s not my money. I would add the 6 qt and 440 (longer) pickup tube and weld on a factory style “Hemi” skid plate on the engine cross member. For a quicker/cheaper fix, use what you have and it does sound like a rear main seal. To drop the oil pan, you can separate the pitman arm and idler arm from the center link bar by unbolting them and smacking the side REALLY hard with a small sledge hammer. The shock will drop them free. This gives you enough clearance to remove the oil pan and not mess up your front end alignment

I think the pan is on hold, my rear main seal needs replacing but I am keeping your info handy for rhe replacement. I really appreciate the details.

 

[MarPar]

Did you get the engine rebuilt 750 miles ago, or the previous owner? Is there any paperwork?

If it was me, I would be talking to the engine builder about this.

 

[needacheaperhob]

Did you get the engine rebuilt 750 miles ago, or the previous owner? Is there any paperwork?

If it was me, I would be talking to the engine builder about this.

View attachment 1608785

Well I was told it was rebuilt 750 miles ago. His father passed away so he was settling the estate but had 50 yrs of papers to go through. The engine looked pretty fresh so I rolled the dice. It sounds strong and healthy but that doesnt mean everything.
I got it for a good price as he didn't want to wait until spring to sell ìt as all rhe bothers/sisters wanted their share of rhe estate. A few thousand to each one wasn't worth waiting 6 months.

Oh well, I'll have it fixed this summer. Could be a $1000 (cdn) I wasn't planning on spending but that goes with old cars. I knew what I was getting into. ...lol

 

[Don Frelier]

Been out there a few hours, everything is tight. So it appears it the main seal.

My oil pressure gauge is showing at 75-80 when warm.

Well, buy my dream car after all these years and its goinf to have to sit for a while. Gotta love it! LoL

75-80 psi at idle when warm?
That's way too high could be part of the reason why it leaks.

 

[needacheaperhob]

75-80 psi at idle when warm?
That's way too high could be part of the reason why it leaks.

Yes, at idle when warm.

What could that mean?

 

[gtxrt]

Yes, at idle when warm.

What could that mean?

A high pressure spring in the oil pump. an easy change. plus to thick oil.

 

[hunt2elk]

Are you running a pcv valve?