Tapered axle upgrade??

Would you upgrade a tapered axle 8-3/4??


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Lefty71

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So, I have the back half of the '64 all tore apart for some detailing underneath and a long overdue suspension rebuild..... thanks to Icetech and the others who responded to the recent thread about +1 springs on an early B, I've got some Espo springs coming for that part.....

So, I pulled the rear and I'm thinking it should get some upgrades; brakes, gearing and traction control since this car is headed for pro street(ish) big block swap.... think Maxie clone....staying on the street. I threw out the idea of superstock springs, and now I'm wondering the best approach to the axle..... really wondering if just a total replacement is the way to go???? I know an S-60 would be nice but that's not going to work for a vintage 64 Maxie clone, right??

And lastly, is there availability of a complete 8-3/4 setup available?, or should I be looking to piece together this old one? Also, kinda wondering if anybody would need the leftovers here, whichever way I go??

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khryslerkid

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I did the replacement on my '62. Dr Diff has the axles ect. They are stronger than the original axles. I found my own brake parts. I believe Cass offers complete setups also. The '64 of course is wider than the '62 but you get the idea in my thread.
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Post in thread 'Taking Up New Residence' Taking Up New Residence
 

Runcharger

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You'll need gears and a suregrip, might as well get something a bit narrower as well so you can maximize your tire size. S60 is looking pretty good for the money. Not sure what look you're going for but on my 64 I narrowed a Dana 60 to 68 SS-A-body specs and period 15X10 Torque Thrusts fit like a glove.

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rolling_Thunder

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I was in the same boat with my 64 - ended up scoring a complete 8.75 (housing, axles, drum brakes, empty 742 case) out of a 1970 Charger for $200 -- I already had a 3.91SG pumpkin so I plan on just swapping the entire assembly in when my body comes back from paint shop.

Also to answer your question - MOSER makes a ready to run 8.75" rear
MOPAR 8 3/4" STAMPED HOUSING MUSCLEPAK - Moser Engineering
 

Ron H

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I installed a '65 Coronet rear and '64 sure-grip in my '63 20+ years ago to dump the tapered. Perfect bolt in. Some years later, was talked into green bearings I did NOT need. First set tanked after 700 miles. 2nd set has around 3k so far so good. Lol, do a search on bearings on this forum and be amazed by the volume of comments pro & con. If you want to be all-original, don't do a swap, but for hard core endurance with a sure-grip...I wouldn't stay with them. MO
 

srw-409

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For my ‘64 I sourced a ‘65 housing and pieced together the bigger brakes. Then had Dr Diff build a new 489 center and axles. That was about 10yrs ago. Back then when it was all added up, it was almost the same cost as a new S60. One reason I stayed with the 8.75 and upgraded the axles was to make gearing changes easier. But that hasn’t been a need for me yet and instead I’d likely change to the overdrive gear set from Passon.

If I was going for the full max wedge nostalgia vibe, I think I’d use the 8.75, but do the upgrades.
 

33 IMP

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I'm pretty sure I have a 65 housing and axles under my 62 (was done before I got the car, 35 years ago).
If I were doing a narrowed rear, and if it were for a Maxie clone, I would much prefer to see a Dana under it. It's a clone, who cares if the rear is "right", I don't want it to break!
A real max, sure, keep the tapered axle 8 3/4.....
 

icetech

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I'm just gonna use my tapered setup since i am going low power, if i were going bigger i would keep an eye on CL/facebook marketplace for a b-body 8.75 with the newer axles complete.. would probalby end up being cheaper (i'm bout saving money as ima po boy from detroit) :) All depends if you are in a rush though...
 

Dave6T4

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I have used 1968-1970 B-body rear ends in two of my 1964 Polaras. It is a straight bolt in, and gets rid of the tapered axles. Pretty well the same width of 1964 rear end. If you need narrower rear end for tire/wheel combo, use 1966-1967 one. This makes servicing brakes and setting up axle side thrust easier.
 

Red63440

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I switched out my tapered axle set up for a 69 8 3/4” housing and 3:23 sure grip. It bolted right in even though it had 11” drum brakes. Installed all new brake lines and new 11” drums.

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Lefty71

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All great responses and good experiences....thx all. I have skimmed Kryslerkid's build thread... now I will reread it in earnest, since upgrade what I have is looking like the plan. @Runcharger did you move springs in to use A-body setup?? My current wheel/tire combo can rub both sides of the wheelwells when the car bottoms out so I know they are pretty well centered with cop wheels. I do have a `67 "B" housing, but it's staying in the stalled project it's in now..... I`m gonna have to go measure some stuff....is there something weird about the `64 housing (wide, or axles long)??
Since this is staying on the road, I'm wondering what the best cost effective setup is for rear street disks with parking brake.... anybody have experience with Moser`s brake in-house offerings? If I decide to go cheap, I do have some 11" drums I pulled off a Dana 60 from one of the race cars a while back.
 

33 IMP

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According to the accurate axle width chart over at a-bodies, the 64 axle is unique as far as width. It's quite a bit wider than a 62/63, wider than a 65-67, just slightly wider than a 68-70 (all referenced are b-body)
So essentially, any other 62-70 b 8 3/4 will be narrower than the 64, but bolt to the stock 64 springs, spring pad widths are the same.
I'm guessing here, but I'll bet the conversions for a 64 housing to non-tapered axles will require the green bearings. That shouldn't be a problem with rear disc's, I think they require the green bearings too.
 

icetech

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Don't wanna make a new thread for this.. where do you guys get pre-bent brake lines? pulled my rear end today and the brake lines look good.. but.. 60 years old.. better safe than sorry :) Unless someone has a newer rear in the detroit area for me :) not looking forward to buying a hub puller..
 

Red63440

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I bought mine on EBay, pre-bent with all correct fittings. They usually give you a choice of regular steel or stainless.
 
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icetech

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Lefty71

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Tried to get busy on this just the past couple weeks....definitely tough when work and life demands come first..

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Lefty71

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Here you can see the spring clearance if I stick with the `64 housing.... gotta research some costs....but it's looking like that's what I'm gonna do.
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Lefty71

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Steamclean....disassemble....
etch...treat....prep and paint. Now I have a clean palette to work from. :thumbsup:

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