dukeboy_318
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odd I have no messages in my inbox
tapered axles
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64 is slightly wider that an A body. If I remember right 3/4". No way is a 64 wider than 65/66. Like I said just order axles and use the existing housing.
Doug
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And newer year backing plates for the size drum you plan on useing. They have the larger hole in the center that the bearing c-ring sits on.
dukeboy_318
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That's all that needs done? Newer model year backing plates and the correct length axles from say dr Diff or moser?
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And it's recomended to remove the "thrust buttons" from the differential when useing the Green Bearings.
Page 11 and 12 in my thread shows what I did on the '62 (I didn't show removal of the thrust buttons)
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/taking-up-new-residence.114133/page-11
I am in south Louisiana but I travel at times. Have a friend that goes to Texas every month or so
Even the thrust buttons can stay in if you get the shaft lengths correct..
Doug
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Cass won't guarantee the axles would be the exact lenth to be able to leave the buttons in, not being able to adjust the end play with Green bearings. Not saying you couldn't use shims and fool with them some. I removed mine per his instructions.
I don't know that it's that big of a deal. Having them in there and adjusted properly, allows the disengagement of the clutches on a hard turn. So I've been told. Without them would mean more pressure on the clutches in a severe turn.
I don't know that it's that big of a deal. Having them in there and adjusted properly, allows the disengagement of the clutches on a hard turn. So I've been told. Without them would mean more pressure on the clutches in a severe turn.
dukeboy_318
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From what I'm finding, they stopped using the different thrust blocks prior to the 1964 year? I'm likely to be swapping in my 489 sure grip third member regardless.
darn, a little bit too far south for me at the moment. Though I am looking at a vacation on the Gulf this spring lol.
It is not going any where. Where are you located ?
dukeboy_318
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Indiana
That isn't too bad. Ya never know where we may go. Let's keep in touch
Centerline
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I have to ask: Are you going racing with this car? If you are then I understand why you would be considering swapping to a newer diff since gear changes would be easier.
However, if you don't plan on hitting the strip why spend the cash to modify or replace something that works and with only slight modification can be just as reliable and as easy to service as the replacement?
For the street the only reason to swap diffs that I can see would be to make maintenance easier, since removing the drums for brake service is a whole lot easier on the later models. That said, if you do the conversion to slip on drums (which costs way under $100), the labor to service the brakes is the same as all the rest of the 8 3/4" units. Just trying to understand the reasons people are constantly recommending swapping these units out if racing isn't in the plans.
However, if you don't plan on hitting the strip why spend the cash to modify or replace something that works and with only slight modification can be just as reliable and as easy to service as the replacement?
For the street the only reason to swap diffs that I can see would be to make maintenance easier, since removing the drums for brake service is a whole lot easier on the later models. That said, if you do the conversion to slip on drums (which costs way under $100), the labor to service the brakes is the same as all the rest of the 8 3/4" units. Just trying to understand the reasons people are constantly recommending swapping these units out if racing isn't in the plans.
dukeboy_318
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you bring up some good points and that is why i'm exploring options. This is a 100% street car. Just a cruiser. But just trying to explore my options at this time. I'm not really wanting to swap the whole axle out unless that is going to be more beneficial, both in costs and time. Once I get my rear apart and check out the condition of the internals, then ill know more as to the path i need to go.
As for swapping the diff, the biggest reason I'll be swapping the diff out and putting the 489 into the 64 housing is because the previous owner said there was noise coming from the axle before he parked it that led him to believe the ring and pinion were going bad. so since I have a spare 489 suregrip unit with 3.23s, figured id just plan on swapping it out.
As for swapping the whole axle out, I'll probably try the drum conversion first. My question is though, if the hub is bad(the right rear is locked up tight right now, not sure if its a stuck brake shoe/drum or if the hub has siezed), where can i get a replacement hub? Or can I even?
Detroit Iron
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I had no idea housing widths were different year to year. When I ditched my tapered axles, I just pulled them out and slid in a set from a '69 B-body. Does it really matter what axles are used? I mean, won't the adjuster make up for any difference in the amount of axle end play that's left?
dukeboy_318
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Yes/no. There is a limit to how far it can adjust, 1/2 inch, probably ok, 3-4 inches not ok
Detroit Iron
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I do experience a "klunk" sound when turning corners which is a mystery. When I check the axle end play it's correct. Hmmm....
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The hub itself cannot seize to keep the axle from turning. Worse case would be the bearing on that axle. More than likely it's just the shoes stuck to the drum. Back the adjuster off all the way, use a hammer to tap around the drum to break them loose. You want the adjuster backed off all the way before pulling the drum/hub anyway.
A bad hub would most likely be from a loose axle nut and the taypered hole is worn out, or a bent one from being in a accident. There are plenty of used ones out there.
dukeboy_318
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awesome, thank!
dukeboy_318
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call Cass @ Dr Diff and run it by him, bet ya he'd know
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