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The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

I still have a few lbs to shed. Been sitting on a pair of black powder coated aluminum strut rods but not sure if they would stand up to my street driving.
What do you guys think??

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I still have a few lbs to shed. Been sitting on a pair of black powder coated aluminum strut rods but not sure if they would stand up to my street driving.
What do you guys think??
The factory original ones I took off my Duster were bent to **** and they were steel.
 
I still have a few lbs to shed. Been sitting on a pair of black powder coated aluminum strut rods but not sure if they would stand up to my street driving.
What do you guys think??

View attachment 1565456
I have those same strut bars in mine for years now. You have better paved streets out on Long Island but the car is much heavier than mine and I have bad paved moon crater streets in the city and much lighter than your package. It's a trade off.
I can look at my records, but if memory serves me right only about 2 Lbs were saved, but I'll take that.
 
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How's these for measure? Shock/spring plates.

Titanium is extremely hard to drill through and cut and never mind trying to bend any of it, for it will bend your brain and your patience for sure.

My welder guy who is well into his late 60's is a certified military and space industry welder. He welds components that are classified in a designated area of his shop and he doesn't allow me to see any of it for obvious reasons.

He loves working on this earthling thing not only because I bring him the craziest ideas, but I bring him even crazier homemade jigs that hold what ever it is together while he runs the beads. It brings a smile and a laugh to both of us when he just shakes his head and is impressed. LOL.
What's crazy is that pretty much all of the jigs that have held things true or in place have been with stuff found on the street. The secret is meticulous measuring.

Anyway, the Stockers were 6 Lbs.
Titanium units were 5 Lbs. 1 lb saved.

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This is off course without cutting off excess end of threads U bolt material. Titanium nuts have since been ordered.
The shock stud is titanium and both pressed on and bead welded.

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You read that right - 12 FRIGGIN' POUNDS!!! Took a while to swallow that. I'd read many times where guys were seeing savings of well over 20lbs. I have to question the veracity of some of those claims because this car had the full Monty job and they weren't stingy with it.
I cleaned the bottom of my sons 62 Savoy this summer. It took 2days and was about 12lbs. Did it more to clean up thn anything else. When I did the 64 the inside of every panel was cleaned. The 1/4s from the tail lights to the door jamb. Last year the wheels got 30 lbs lighter, but. Lately I must admit it's been going the wrong direction. Holley carbs +6 lbs over the Eddy's, stiff aluminum Dana 60 rear cover +6 lbs over the chrome steel cover (which is lighter than the factory steel cover), new140amp alternator +6 lbs over the small Denso (which never kept up with fan draw), adding tubes in the slicks,+4 lbs.
Doug
 
I cleaned the bottom of my sons 62 Savoy this summer. It took 2days and was about 12lbs.
How'd you get roped into that job?? Hope he bought the beer at least. Getting the underside of the car clean was my main objective as well. I'm happy with that end of it despite the meager weight loss results.
 
I cleaned the bottom of my sons 62 Savoy this summer. It took 2days and was about 12lbs. Did it more to clean up thn anything else. When I did the 64 the inside of every panel was cleaned. The 1/4s from the tail lights to the door jamb. Last year the wheels got 30 lbs lighter, but. Lately I must admit it's been going the wrong direction. Holley carbs +6 lbs over the Eddy's, stiff aluminum Dana 60 rear cover +6 lbs over the chrome steel cover (which is lighter than the factory steel cover), new140amp alternator +6 lbs over the small Denso (which never kept up with fan draw), adding tubes in the slicks,+4 lbs.
Doug
My removal of the gunk and asphalt took almost four days.
I was pooped and that was before sanding, priming and then painting.

Just as a note to what was at task. The interior of the quarters in the trunk were caked with the stuff which is more likely sound deadener. All of the underneath including the tank had a very thick layer of the stuff. In particularly was the differential cavity well which was at least 3/4 of an inch thick and enough that a residue amount rained down on the differential itself. The wheel wells both front and back were caked. Oddly enough, some rust still made it ways in via moisture and salt trapping.
Years ago, an SS Nova that I owned was also thick and heavy, but I removed it all just to cake on a new fresh layer. Little did I know about weight.

DV. We have to find a way how to cut those pounds down.
When I hit it big, I will get you a whole aluminum front end. LOL
 
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Here's the front hangers. It sits offset right up next to the frame rail, so the eye bolt can never loosen up and walk itself out. These are have the size of the Direct Connection hangers that have four adjustment holes instead of two, thus almost half the weight and still adjustable.
The springs are a whole other story.

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I cleaned the bottom of my sons 62 Savoy this summer. It took 2days and was about 12lbs. Did it more to clean up thn anything else. When I did the 64 the inside of every panel was cleaned. The 1/4s from the tail lights to the door jamb. Last year the wheels got 30 lbs lighter, but. Lately I must admit it's been going the wrong direction. Holley carbs +6 lbs over the Eddy's, stiff aluminum Dana 60 rear cover +6 lbs over the chrome steel cover (which is lighter than the factory steel cover), new140amp alternator +6 lbs over the small Denso (which never kept up with fan draw), adding tubes in the slicks,+4 lbs.
Doug
Wheels got 30 Lbs lighter? That's rotating mass almost worth a hundred Lbs. You're good.
 
Wheels got 30 Lbs lighter? That's rotating mass almost worth a hundred Lbs. You're good.
While we're on springs and things but without sounding like I'm disappointed, the removal of the previous wanna-be SS springs to a set of Tri-City Launchers brought up the weight numbers on each side of the cars rear.

The new types of s(-)!tty SS springs supposedly made from old Direct Connection specs were lighter, but horrible on the launch besides sagging prematurely. The starboard side SSh!t springs which had the most leafs were 42 Lbs. The same side launchers are now 45 Lbs making for a 3 pound increase.....................ssssssssssssssss.
The port side SSh!t springs were 38-1/2 lbs whereas the same side launchers are now 45 Lbs making for a 6-1/2 Lbs increase.

The SS springs spit out sluggish 6ix inch lifts (attached below) but consistent 1.65 60 ft times and flexed 128 mph on the big end, while the launchers rewarded me with 1.46ish best to the cruise of 131.8 mph give or take. It's been a while since, but man I do remember that it was a complete transition from Dr Jekyll to Mr. Hyde.
Now in all honesty, at the same time I did have more stall installed in the converter and the carb was tweaked and peaked by Thumper.
As they say, Hot Dodders are never patient to learn from the patience of one thing at a time. LOL.

Photo: Hemi-itis

1.jpeg
 
While we're on springs and things but without sounding like I'm disappointed, the removal of the previous wanna-be SS springs to a set of Tri-City Launchers brought up the weight numbers on each side of the cars rear.

The new types of s(-)!tty SS springs supposedly made from old Direct Connection specs were lighter, but horrible on the launch besides sagging prematurely. The starboard side SSh!t springs which had the most leafs were 42 Lbs. The same side launchers are now 45 Lbs making for a 3 pound increase.....................ssssssssssssssss.
The port side SSh!t springs were 38-1/2 lbs whereas the same side launchers are now 45 Lbs making for a 6-1/2 Lbs increase.

The SS springs spit out sluggish 6ix inch lifts (attached below) but consistent 1.65 60 ft times and flexed 128 mph on the big end, while the launchers rewarded me with 1.46ish best to the cruise of 131.8 mph give or take. It's been a while since, but man I do remember that it was a complete transition from Dr Jekyll to Mr. Hyde.
Now in all honesty, at the same time I did have more stall installed in the converter and the carb was tweaked and peaked by Thumper.
As they say, Hot Dodders are never patient to learn from the patience of one thing at a time. LOL.

Photo: Hemi-itis

View attachment 1566499
Yes those Tri-City springs are heavy but they do work and are very simple.

Gus
 
Yes those Tri-City springs are heavy but they do work and are very simple.

Gus
They do work and the street ride is no rougher than the SS's. In fact, I don't feel any harshness with them on the street, but then again, this is a no cushy sofa comfort type of car. The smells, the sounds, the vibrations.

Here's the spring clamps in position as they came with the leafs, but the bottom sandwich bars are aluminum and the bolts are 6AL4V Titanium. The top sandwich bars are steel. Saved 1-1/2 lbs between all 6ix of them.

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I wonder what the difference in weight is between the tri city and Caltrac..........
Mono leaves vs. 5 or 6 leaves on each side. The Calvert mounting brackets don’t weigh that much and the threaded traction bars are light because they’re hollow. Aluminum spring eye bushings too. My guess would be 20lbs per side? More?

They stick out like a flashing billboard in Times Square though which is probably why our friend FMJ would never run them. Even though it’s no longer the ‘70s-‘80s and no one would bat an eye at them on the street because guys are racing 2,500hp Pro Mods out there these days… that is the path he has chosen and we admire him for staying true to it.

On the flip side, just about every NHRA stocker and even most weekend warrior street/strip cars run them now so they certainly have their place. There’s many cars in the low 8’s and even high 7s with them now which is just bonkers. I run them, no need to convince me of their benefits. We’re all a bit hard-headed about certain things in this game, right? FMJ seems to do OK without Caltracs but it would be an interesting test to see what kind of difference they might make in his particular situation.

Correct me if I’m wrong but leaf springs are half sprung weight. I‘m not sure if the extra mass actually matters beyond the idea that overcoming the car’s inertia with more overall weight saddled to it requires more power/energy to do it.
 
Also just to follow up on the driveshaft loop, it's not 15lbs, not even close. It might be 5lbs if that. When I took it off to do the undercoating it seemed really heavy but in reality it's not that bad.

I have no plans to drill any 'speed' holes in it though since it needs to withstand some pretty blunt force should a u joint give way. There are two extra holes in it already for seat bolts but that's as far as I'll go. Best to leave it as-is to ensure it does it's job as intended. The previous owner did cut the top edges off the "L" parts that bolt to the hoop sides so there's the weight reduction.

Welding the pieces together does not seem like a great idea either since the hoop bolts hold the halves in shear. Even if the holes were to stretch on impact they shouldn't just snap off like one of my poor welds could. Plus, there's eight of them. Shaving the weight of eight 3/4" length bolts is not worth the potential pitfalls of the alternative.

This is an old part that was on my car when I bought it but I never really looked at it too closely - it's a driveshaft loop. I didn't even realize it had a zinc coating on it because it was mostly hidden by oxidation. The whole works was submerged into an Evaporust bath to clean it up. The Evaporust removed most of the remaining zinc coating so I'll have to paint it now but it's good to go otherwise.
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Carry on please.
 
Mono leaves vs. 5 or 6 leaves on each side. The Calvert mounting brackets don’t weigh that much and the threaded traction bars are light because they’re hollow. Aluminum spring eye bushings too. My guess would be 20lbs per side? More?

They stick out like a flashing billboard in Times Square though which is probably why our friend FMJ would never run them. Even though it’s no longer the ‘70s-‘80s and no one would bat an eye at them on the street because guys are racing 2,500hp Pro Mods out there these days… that is the path he has chosen and we admire him for staying true to it.

On the flip side, just about every NHRA stocker and even most weekend warrior street/strip cars run them now so they certainly have their place. There’s many cars in the low 8’s and even high 7s with them now which is just bonkers. I run them, no need to convince me of their benefits. We’re all a bit hard-headed about certain things in this game, right? FMJ seems to do OK without Caltracs but it would be an interesting test to see what kind of difference they might make in his particular situation.

Correct me if I’m wrong but leaf springs are half sprung weight. I‘m not sure if the extra mass actually matters beyond the idea that overcoming the car’s inertia with more overall weight saddled to it requires more power/energy to do it.
Yes, they are lighter looking though I have never weighed them against these monstrous springs. They should be lighter being that a mono spring is part of the package, but l guess different combos make for great debate and surprising results at the gates.
As far as visuals, Low hanging fruit is what I call them for easy conclusion of what a car can do without allusion.
Speaking of allusions and springs, I lost a purse when I bet against my own family (Mopar) late one evening running up against a bonfire 9 second Stage#2 ‘71 Booick as we used to call em.
The Booick was my boyz ride and had a winning streak for a hot New York moment up until he lined up against this Mt Vernon based passenger side listing ‘69 RR. What was he running?…… you guessed it…….. some kind of multi-spring. Mannnnnn that thing straightened itself out and scooted like a scolded dog. Though the Booick almost caught up after coming out of a drunken drift of its own, it was an almost and almost doesn’t count on the street. I never bet against a thing with a spring again. LOL.
Rightly so, I have seen mean lean combos running the bars and they are formidable foes as well. I guess it can be said that I’m marooned in the old days.
I’m almost too traditional in the sense of combos such as l was advised against a flat tapped cam for a solid roller for 20-40 more horses, did l listen? No!
I was advised against a smaller tire 10” for a semi tubbed 12-14”tire, did I listen? No!
The list goes on and on.
 
Also just to follow up on the driveshaft loop, it's not 15lbs, not even close. It might be 5lbs if that. When I took it off to do the undercoating it seemed really heavy but in reality it's not that bad.

I have no plans to drill any 'speed' holes in it though since it needs to withstand some pretty blunt force should a u joint give way. There are two extra holes in it already for seat bolts but that's as far as I'll go. Best to leave it as-is to ensure it does it's job as intended. The previous owner did cut the top edges off the "L" parts that bolt to the hoop sides so there's the weight reduction.

Welding the pieces together does not seem like a great idea either since the hoop bolts hold the halves in shear. Even if the holes were to stretch on impact they shouldn't just snap off like one of my poor welds could. Plus, there's eight of them. Shaving the weight of eight 3/4" length bolts is not worth the potential pitfalls of the alternative.

This is an old part that was on my car when I bought it but I never really looked at it too closely - it's a driveshaft loop. I didn't even realize it had a zinc coating on it because it was mostly hidden by oxidation. The whole works was submerged into an Evaporust bath to clean it up. The Evaporust removed most of the remaining zinc coating so I'll have to paint it now but it's good to go otherwise.
View attachment 1567201

Carry on please.
Paint is weight. LOL
 
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