The return of MAXIMVS...

[Snook]

Updates, The front end suspension was too far degraded from age, so decided to replace the whole shebang.

• New PST A-Arms with upper ball joints expected this week
• New PST front end rebuild kit (super) expected this week
• New front performance disc brake system expected this week. Spindles, calipers, rotors, dust shields, hoses, etc., etc...
• Ordered a new Griffin exact fit radiator. Spendy but worth it, came highly recommended so just bit the bullet...
• Picked up rust free hood and decklid, rare here in FL. The pieces I had were usable but would need work, just decided to take advantage of a rare opportunity to replace with superior pieces. Yeah, I'm picky.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:

• Got the front end components broken down. I gave the pickle forks a work out today, I was a gorilla when I put them together 20 years ago.
• Got the super front end parts in today, looks good.
• Could NOT get the pitman arm off, will have to get that to the local shop with a press to get it off... geeze
• Off to the shop tomorrow to get the LCA bushings removed and new ones in
• Manual steering box looks good
• New UCA's in Friday
• Hopefully new performance disc brake system in Friday/Saturday
• Age is a bitch...

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:

• Got the PST A-Arms in a few days ago - these are heavy duty quality pieces
• New disc brake setup in early this week, hoping for tomorrow
• LCA bushings should be installed early this week. I bit the bullet and bought a 12 ton shop press, so if it's not this week, I'll find the time and do the bushing swap myself. Should have done that in the firsst place anyway.
• The eddy 1405's that came with the car are too far gone from corrosion and modifications, so I picked up a pair of reman 1405's, they will be here this week.
• Went to A&A for the eddy MW fuel line setup and fittings, they should be here this next week.
• Shooting for the front end rebuild this week depending on the LCA bushing changeouts.
• Going to be cutting the hood bracing this week to make clearance for the MW air cleaner setup - no way is it going to work without the bracing removal. I'm running a flat hood setup, no MW scoop on this build.
• Ordered the 3" cutouts, they'll be here this week. They will be installed when it goes to the shop for the 4.56 & spool change to the 4.10 & Powr-Lok change and exhaust system install.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:

• Put a cheap HF 12 ton press together - fit was great about 20 minutes assembly (I sprung for a cheap HF 12T press - how I got along so far without a press is beyond me! Well worth the $169).
• Got 1 of the 3 boxes of disc brake stuff, other 2 show up tomorrow
• Pressed out the long wheel studs on my original setup and pressed a few into the new rotors - EZ peasy.
• LCA bushing work is still pending at the local shop. I hope I didn't make a mistake on this one.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:

• I found out that wood is not a good support when pressing. Don't ask me how I know. Well, 6 pieces of 2"x2"x12" 0.25" thick square tube fixed that issue. At $19.32 a foot, that hurt.
• Got the rest of the brake parts last night, still need to do the inventory to make sure it's all there. Looks good though, I've used Pirate Jacks stuff in the past and it's always been good - great customer support too.
• LCA work is done, the shop did a good job. Front end is ready for re-assembly, maybe tomorrow.
• The refurbed Eddy 1405's should be here tomorrow.
• The A&A stuff should be here this week

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Going to try header studs over bolts this go around. If it works I'll supply ARP part number.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Finally got a small break from work.

Updates:

• Finished up the front end rebuild, went well. No complaints from me. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/372132507847
• Installed the Pirate Jacks performance disc brake kit - really nice kit. Here's a link if you're looking for a reasonably priced performance kit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/171626986395 . Fit was excellent but be forewarned, the bearings were chineseum - these will be changed out for Timken or SKF down the road but they are OK for now... spindles and calipers (single piston) look good.
• Installed the PST upper A-Arms - these are quality heavy duty pieces, no complaints from me. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203107217223
• Installed the PST 1.03" torsion bars and seal/retainer kit. Once again these are quality pieces, no complaints from me. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203095591483

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

It's a good feeling to get the old girl off the lift and back on all fours for now...

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Getting there, updates, pics below:

• Got the classic Gabriel gas shocks on the front
• Got the Doug's fenderwell headers on the car
• Got the Griffin radiator shroud with 2 fans in last week - looks to be a quality piece. Radiator should be here next week.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Cranky]

Updates:

• Got the front end components broken down. I gave the pickle forks a work out today, I was a gorilla when I put them together 20 years ago.
• Got the super front end parts in today, looks good.
• Could NOT get the pitman arm off, will have to get that to the local shop with a press to get it off... geeze
• Off to the shop tomorrow to get the LCA bushings removed and new ones in
• Manual steering box looks good
• New UCA's in Friday
• Hopefully new performance disc brake system in Friday/Saturday
• Age is a bitch...

Chuck (snook)

You don't have a puller for that? Even so, I've put one on and tightened the snot out of it and after hosing down the thing again with penetrating oil for like a day or so. One time I walked away to come back out the next day and see it loose!

Updates:

• Put a cheap HF 12 ton press together - fit was great about 20 minutes assembly (I sprung for a cheap HF 12T press - how I got along so far without a press is beyond me! Well worth the $169).
• Got 1 of the 3 boxes of disc brake stuff, other 2 show up tomorrow
• Pressed out the long wheel studs on my original setup and pressed a few into the new rotors - EZ peasy.
• LCA bushing work is still pending at the local shop. I hope I didn't make a mistake on this one.

Chuck (snook)

Picked up a used USA made 12 ton many years ago and it's still working good with the original jack. Now since I typed that, it'll probably crap out lol

Updates:

• I found out that wood is not a good support when pressing. Don't ask me how I know. Well, 6 pieces of 2"x2"x12" 0.25" thick square tube fixed that issue. At $19.32 a foot, that hurt.
• Got the rest of the brake parts last night, still need to do the inventory to make sure it's all there. Looks good though, I've used Pirate Jacks stuff in the past and it's always been good - great customer support too.
• LCA work is done, the shop did a good job. Front end is ready for re-assembly, maybe tomorrow.
• The refurbed Eddy 1405's should be here tomorrow.
• The A&A stuff should be here this week

Chuck (snook)

Nope.....wood isn't exactly the best for using as a support for pressing stuff....and you don't have to ask me how I know

 

[Snook]

You don't have a puller for that? Even so, I've put one on and tightened the snot out of it and after hosing down the thing again with penetrating oil for like a day or so. One time I walked away to come back out the next day and see it loose!

I had a puller, I gave up after an hour, would not budge. I had to get the LCA bushings replaced so I just dropped the LCA's and box off and picked up the stuff the next day.

Picked up a used USA made 12 ton many years ago and it's still working good with the original jack. Now since I typed that, it'll probably crap out lol

Murphy is strong!


Nope.....wood isn't exactly the best for using as a support for pressing stuff....and you don't have to ask me how I know

It was pressure treated and I was hoping it would be hard enough but not hardly. Chaged out the wood for 1'x2'" square 1/4" wall and that did the trick.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:

• Got the pushbutton trans cable hooked up and dialed in, just like old times it was a PITA
• Got the Park cable hooked up
• Got the front brakes finished up with new SS hoses, pretty painless
• Got the OEM trans dipstick installed and 'modified' (read: bent) to clear the FW headers
• Got the starter and neutral safety switch wired in. One major bonus of fenderwell headers is the starter is clear of everything, 5 minute change out.
• Had to order a special crank pulley to work with the ATI 917122E from Doty Manufacturing. PN# BMCT-2000. The super damper is 0.440" wider than a stock balancer, so you end up with a severe 1/2" misalignment with a stock water pump pulley.
• Got the torque converter to flex plate bolts in and torqued. This is the one thing I hate with mopars. No room and major SHTF if and when they back out. I started using RED Locktite and have never looked back. Sure it's a PITA if you have to remove them but it's worth the headache.
• Got the driveshaft in - perfect, no issues

Getting close...

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:

• Griffin exact fit radiator here tomorrow. Fit up with the shroud will follow shortly after I get the rad.
• I ordered a new MW carb linkage setup from A&A because I wasn't sure if I was missing anything. Turns out, nope I'm not missing anything. That means I have a complete USED setup as an extra that I won't be needing - if anyone is looking to save a few bucks, hit me up. It's just going to waste sitting here. I'll put this in the for sale section.
• I also have a set of 4 bolt valve covers that I won't be using. The baffles have been cut out for rocker clearance for a high lift cam, they are nice but have been modified. Once again, hit me up if you need a set of nice valve covers sans baffles/shields. The new (used unmodified) ones I bought will be here this Monday. I'll put this in the for sale section.
• Started fitting up the A&A MW fuel line kit for use with Eddy 1405's. I'll post how that's working out.
• Had to use a DMI BMCT-2000 crank pulley to fix the ATI Superdamper 917122E mismatched alignment with the factory water pump pulley - works perfect and no shimming required. It was 0.440" out with the factory crank pulley - that's on me as I didn't read the fine print. It all worked out though for an extra Benjamin, good thing I'm working some overtime.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:

• Got the Griffin radiator with dual fans installed. Tight fit, I used button head 5/16-18 x 1/2"L screws to get rid of the higher profile hex head bolts, it's pretty close, see pics attached. Rad fit's like a glove using factory placement and fasteners, nice piece.
• Ran the valves one last time before I start the engine, next week or two hopefully.
• Filled all the fluids up
• Getting the electrical sorted out still
• Went for an Optima 1000A AGM yellow top, the old AGM was getting weak

Chuck (snook)

 

[Nxcoupe]

Looks great. You have more patience than me, I'd work all night to get it fired.

 

[Snook]

Looks great. You have more patience than me, I'd work all night to get it fired.

Still missing some small parts before I fire it up, they should be here this week. I need to modify the Eddy 1406 carbs still to work with the crossram.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Another benefit of the fenderwell Doug's, is that spark plugs are a breeze.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:

• Wiring is a mess after 59 years, not surprised. Race car wiring jobs didn't help either. For safety's sake, I'm ripping it all out and re-using what I can. No one reproduces wiring harnesses for 1963 B-Bodies, especially the dash harness. I have a good one of those that with a little work and sprucing up will be fine.
• Cut the hood bracing out to mimic the factory mod to clear the crossram air cleaners. The bondo they used to secure the bracing had long ago let go, so I eliminated a future rattle racket in the making. See pics. I decided to go with a different hood, the one I had dipped had too many through hole rust spots for me on the leading edge. The new hood is a solid piece with no rust issues. The dipped hood was banged up pretty good and I didn't notice that until after I got it back. Before anyone asks, YES the hood bracing needed to come out. I checked and there is no way on my build that the hood would have cleared the MW air cleaners with the bracing in place.
• I scored a great set of 4 bolt valve covers that the seller had no idea what applications they would fit. The covers I had, had the baffling cut out of them - that was a shame as they were otherwise pretty nice. The baffles/shields were cut out to clear rocker arm interference issues on a really high lift cam I figure. If anyone can use them, they're going in the for sale section along with a bunch of other stuff I can't use.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:

• Yes, I'm an idiot. I post this in an effort to warn those after me. I installed the MW crossram backwards. Yup I did that. In my defense, this is my first experience with MW cross rams and I failed to realize that I could actually do that. In the interest of full disclosure, this is my post. I discovered this when I was installing the MW XRAM linkages. To those that follow, verify that you have it right. The easiest way to do that is visually verify that the throttle linkage plate mates and bolts up at the REAR of the intake and the coil mounting bracket is at the FRONT of the intake. It is entirely possible to swap these (as I had done) in error. Rookie move for sure at the ripe old age of 65 in my case. Embarrassing for sure but at my advanced age of 65 I'm past that unfortunately. So this Saturday will be spent cussing myself out and re-installing the intake. I could have spared myself the embarrassment but it is what it is, go ahead and laugh, I will laugh along with you, it is funny after all.
• Got the fuel supply buttoned up, we're good to go for now.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Here's a pic of it mounted backwards - the red boxes show an easy way to tell. The box to the right lower is for mounting the xram throttle linkage, the box rear upper is the coil mounting provision. DOH.

Chuck (snook)