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TIG welding tips for beginner?

Congrat's on wanting to get into TIG, great skill to have....But I agree with the other guys. It's kind of like using a yacht to go bass fishing in a farm pond. Same theory and capability, but way too much effort for what it's worth. Having a good handle on Gas Welding/Mig/Stick first will definitely give you a learning edge when moving into the world of Tig.

Good Luck
 
Thanks for all the info...I just got a miller millermatic challenger 172 from my brother and will practice with that and mig floor pans...eventually I will learn TIG too..

Thanks Big Jim for your emails, it is much appreciated..and thanks to everyone else who took the time to post...
 
Are you a welder? Do you have any welding classes and education respective of this trade? Welding is not something that is 'just picked up' on the fly. Too often this world is welded together with inferior welds, which just rubs me raw! I also would not Tig weld floor pans together. Sorry if I sound a bit 'off', don't really mean to be 'mean', just that all too often we in this hobby don't set limits on our own expectations and abilities. I speak for myself; like I won't do interiors, final paint, oily and greasy engine stuff, electronics, because I don't have the skills or the time to do what's needed to learn those skills. I stick to what I stick to; and farm the rest out to the pro's. However, a few years ago, I was trying to do everything, minimizing others' skill sets and professionalism for my own 'I can do it myself' mentality. If I'm way off base here, forgive me! Hope your welder/welding experience is a good one!

Yes Donny your some what off base. The only way to learn is do it. I self taught myself welding, Body work, electric, painting and it provides satisfaction. It is a hobby that is not for everyone. But when the project is done and you did it it makes you feel great. O by the way, that is just my opinion. Your opinion also makes sense, if you know your not into it then your doing the right thing for you.
 
Tig welding is beautiful, your learning a skill, but i would definately Mig the floor in since a clean weld requires a level of skill that is best learned on a table and with time. The Mig welder anyone can learn to use in very short order.
 
A few months back, I thought I saw one of the Mopar mags do a floor-pan install using a structural-adhesive and flangeing method. They also plug and stitch welded in places. They would crimp a flange on the old, solid metal. Then apply structural-adhesive. Then the parts are screwed together using self-tappers, or cleco's in pre-drilled holes. After drying, the screws or clips were removed, and the holes plug-welded. The seams were then properly sealed. Lotsa ways to skin a cat! We use a TON of structural adhesives to assemble the cars at the factory. Properly done, I have seen the metal fail before the adhesive during a "peel-test".
 
You don't panel bond inner structure.Yes the factories bond almost every thing,but they also weld everything.They have started using panel bond to help aid with corrosion and strength.They have gone to thinner gauge materials and higher strength alloys to help with safety and weight.Todays vehicles are over engineered compaired to are morags when it comes to structure or anything really.
In any repair procedure that requires bonding will require STRW (squeeze type resistance welding) in some form.If not STRW it will require a mechanical fastner such as a rivet of some sort.You do not in any way mig weld over panel bond.I have seen and heard of many trying it with failed results at best.

The just of it all is you only panel bond exerior panels in a field type repair!!!Even at that their are limitations and strict guidelines.I have used almost all of them.I have one that I use 3M8115 and the updated version8116.Panel bond is great if used correctly.I am a firm believer in the product when used correctly.So weld inner structure and bond exterior panels with limitations!!!
 
practice practice practice. then do it some more. when preping clean the hell out of your surfaces then use break cleaner to get all the perfections off and wipe clean with a lintfree rag or blow dry it with compressed air. I would mig interior stuff also, but i like how having more controll with the tig. good luck
 
Interesting post, Moparpoor! From some of the articles I have read, using adhesive, and plug-welding the holes used to clamp it, was deemed acceptable. I work in a BIW area and am very familiar with STRW. Perhaps we may be talking about different types of adhesives? The ones I referred to were for aftermarket repairs. The ones we use in the factory have different properties because I believe they are designed to resist the cleaning process, the e-coat process, and the phosphate process, before they activate during the baking process in the paint shop.
 
Interesting post, Moparpoor! From some of the articles I have read, using adhesive, and plug-welding the holes used to clamp it, was deemed acceptable. I work in a BIW area and am very familiar with STRW. Perhaps we may be talking about different types of adhesives? The ones I referred to were for aftermarket repairs. The ones we use in the factory have different properties because I believe they are designed to resist the cleaning process, the e-coat process, and the phosphate process, before they activate during the baking process in the paint shop.

My first responce is a question!Why would you have holes from clamping?Second,try bonding pieces of metal together.Then drill a 5/16 hole in the top layer just tipping into the secondary layer of metal.Now mig weld the hole to meat I-car or manufacture standards.It will boil the bonding material in the surrounding area and turn the weld into a big blister.Even with tig welding same results.You might be able to spit weld some metal to fill the hole.It will be nothing worth while.
As for the products we use in the field are generally the same products the manufactures use in areas.GM uses Lord Fusor aswell 3M 8116,Ford 3M 8116.Chrysler last time we checked was all over the area with suppliers.They change suppliers like I change underware.
The cleaning and ecoat process does not usually penetrate weld seams.This is seams STRW with or without bonding material.You would think it would,but it doesn't.One of the reasons the usage of bonding material.90% of bonding material is epoxy based products wich are rarely affected by a wide variety of products used in production or field repairs.
I understand some manufactures make claims with bonding products.Don't believe everything you read.I worked with a Lord Fusor rep for some time years ago.They made claims you could bond structure,frame rails no welding required.Would you put your family in that car.:no:Eastwood claims you can bond panel section seams.Yes you can.Their is a catch,it will shadow line the seam.It will have a fine line at the point the metals overlap.I can go on for days about this.Use the product wisely and what it is intended for.That is bond pinch weld areas with or without STRW per manufactures guidelines.
 
Wow! Lot of good things to look at! Re: Holes from clamping. In the article, they recommended using self-tapping screws, or cleco-pins, to clamp the floorpan into place as the adhesive cured, unless you have 3-foot C-clamps in your toolbox! Then plug-weld the holes afterwards. I DO have a concern over aging of the bond. I keep thinking of Gilligans water-proof, super-glue, that lasts only 24 hours!
 
What article is this?If you could post the article or an attachmment.
Got you on the holes!When we bond some roof skins and are not able to clamp the panel in some areas we will screw the panel down.This is usually done in an area that will be seam sealed.So you can either seam seal the hole or you can reapply panel bond over the hole after removing the screws.
 
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