Timed my 69 RR 383

[mpro69rr]

Well, I finally got around to timing my 69 RR. I tried to advance it to 35* and it runs well if I take it easy and go faster gently. If I floor it in 3rd or 4th I think I get a lot of pinging or its the exhaust, not sure but it gains speed slowly. Another thing, if I am in 2nd and floor it I can only get to 4000 rpm and then have to go to 3rd, why can't get it past 4000 rpm, is it the gearing? It was an auto before the previous owner converted it to a 4 speed. I'm not sure what it has for gearing. It seems like it wants to take off but it doesn't. I use 93 octane and a lead additive. I think it has close to stock cam. Before I timed it, it was at 30* and backfired a lot. I have a brand new edelbrock avs2 650 carb. Any ideas guys?

 

[hunt2elk]

What is the initial set at and how fast is total coming in?

 

[mpro69rr]

What is the initial set at and how fast is total coming in?

Hmm not sure, I'm kind of new to this. I reved it to 3000rpm to set it at 35*.

 

[hunt2elk]

That an ok place to start on the total, could even bump it down a couple degrees for now to be safe. Check your initial next. If you don't have enough, it will be a dog. If your advance is coming in to quickly, it will probably be pinging when mashing the pedal. Pinging is a very bad thing on these motors, so you need to pay attention to what is happening and make adjustments to stop it.

 

[mpro69rr]

That an ok place to start on the total, could even bump it down a couple degrees for now to be safe. Check your initial next. If you don't have enough, it will be a dog. If your advance is coming in to quickly, it will probably be pinging when mashing the pedal. Pinging is a very bad thing on these motors, so you need to pay attention to what is happening and make adjustments to stop it.

Thanks, I'll find out what my initial is. If you change the initial wont that change the total? I checked my initial and it is 12*. It idles about 800-900 rmp.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I’d bump it up till the starter tried to kick back. Then bring it down 1-2 degrees for the initial. Do you have vacuum advance?

 

[mpro69rr]

I’d bump it up till the starter tried to kick back. Then bring it down 1-2 degrees for the initial. Do you have vacuum advance?

Yes, I have vacuum advance. What do you mean when you say the starter kicks back?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Advance the timing a little. Start the car. Did the car start or did the starter kick back? No kick back, advance a bit more. Repeat till the starter kicks back when trying to start. Then bring back the advance a bit.

 

[mpro69rr]

Advance the timing a little. Start the car. Did the car start or did the starter kick back? No kick back, advance a bit more. Repeat till the starter kicks back when trying to start. Then bring back the advance a bit.

Ah OK, I understand. I'll try that.

 

[mpro69rr]

Advance the timing a little. Start the car. Did the car start or did the starter kick back? No kick back, advance a bit more. Repeat till the starter kicks back when trying to start. Then bring back the advance a bit.

OK, I did that and got 20* initial. What next?

 

[hunt2elk]

Now you need to move the advance plates inside the distributor so you have about 14-16 degrees. 14 + 20 = 34. FBO has a nice disc that works well for this. Or get a set of Mallory keys and start experimenting.

 

[mpro69rr]

Now you need to move the advance plates inside the distributor so you have about 14-16 degrees. 14 + 20 = 34. FBO has a nice disc that works well for this. Or get a set of Mallory keys and start experimenting.

Yikes, I never did that before. Hmmm maybe I'll bring it somewhere and get it done correctly. I don't know how to mess around with the distributer. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[mpro69rr]

Now you need to move the advance plates inside the distributor so you have about 14-16 degrees. 14 + 20 = 34. FBO has a nice disc that works well for this. Or get a set of Mallory keys and start experimenting.

I'm also going to get petronix II electronic ignition and a new coil.

 

[mpro69rr]

Now you need to move the advance plates inside the distributor so you have about 14-16 degrees. 14 + 20 = 34. FBO has a nice disc that works well for this. Or get a set of Mallory keys and start experimenting.

If I retard the total advance down to 32* should that get rid of the pinging? I don't know when I'm going to have someone do the timing but I still want to ride around.

 

[Kowal]

I'm also going to get petronix II electroni

If I retard the total advance down to 32* should that get rid of the pinging? I don't know when I'm going to have someone do the timing but I still want to ride around.

Yes, the pinging should go away as you back the timing down. Another parallel suggestion, do you have a sense if the car runs lean or rich when driving? Bumper getting discolored (rich)? To me, with the way it isn’t generating enough power it may be too lean. Wouldn’t hurt to try a richer set of rods at WOT in the Edelbrock.

The distributor does have a lot of advance in it, I missed your earlier descriptions, is the unit a points distributor or what is it? Setting the distributor at 35 and ending up with 12 at idle (with I am assuming the vacuum disconnected for all these measurements) is a lot of advance in the unit. But first...what kind of unit is it? Stock, stock appearing, Mopar EFI?

 

[Kowal]

As you listen to our advise...best is to get to a baseline that has nothing catastrophic going on like pinging, then start to work on fine tuning in the performance. You are idling a bit fat (high) which may also imply it is running lean if that is the lowest you can get it to idle smoothly.

 

[mpro69rr]

Yes, the pinging should go away as you back the timing down. Another parallel suggestion, do you have a sense if the car runs lean or rich when driving? Bumper getting discolored (rich)? To me, with the way it isn’t generating enough power it may be too lean. Wouldn’t hurt to try a richer set of rods at WOT in the Edelbrock.

The distributor does have a lot of advance in it, I missed your earlier descriptions, is the unit a points distributor or what is it? Setting the distributor at 35 and ending up with 12 at idle (with I am assuming the vacuum disconnected for all these measurements) is a lot of advance in the unit. But first...what kind of unit is it? Stock, stock appearing, Mopar EFI?

I don't think its running rich but maybe lean. I'm am running a points distributor stock hopefully being upgraded to petronix II soon. I do have the vacuum disconnected during this time.

 

[mpro69rr]

As you listen to our advise...best is to get to a baseline that has nothing catastrophic going on like pinging, then start to work on fine tuning in the performance. You are idling a bit fat (high) which may also imply it is running lean if that is the lowest you can get it to idle smoothly.

I can get it to idle smooth at around 800-900 rpm.

 

[hunt2elk]

If I retard the total advance down to 32* should that get rid of the pinging? I don't know when I'm going to have someone do the timing but I still want to ride around.

Depends when it is pinging. If the springs in the distributor are to light and the advance is coming in to quickly, that will also cause pinging. If you need to drive it without getting it dialed in (which will take some trial and error), drop the total to 32 and you will have to live with the poor performance. If it is still pinging, you shouldn't drive it until the advance springs and slots are setup for your motor, imo.

 

[mpro69rr]

Depends when it is pinging. If the springs in the distributor are to light and the advance is coming in to quickly, that will also cause pinging. If you need to drive it without getting it dialed in (which will take some trial and error), drop the total to 32 and you will have to live with the poor performance. If it is still pinging, you shouldn't drive it until the advance springs and slits are setup for your motor, imo.

Yes, I agree with you, I will try bringing it down to 32*, hopefully that will work.