Toe Alignment

[Moparfiend]

I am only getting toe in movement on the adjustment rod but no toe out driver side.

 

[Kern Dog]

I can’t adjust toe movement out on the driver side. So there is something wrong.

If indeed its the UCA not tightened correctly I believe I would need to reset them again just to make sure thats not the issue.?.

More of my experience is with the A bodies but they are similar to the B and E with the steering and suspension.
Of all the A body parts cars I've had, a few had rebuilt front ends with unskilled hands on them. I've seen tie rod ends installed where they are fully threaded in on the inner tie rod and and barely engaged on the outer. This leaves no room to adjust one way but a LOT going the other way. The only reasonable fix is to take them apart and thread them in each end a equal amount and align from there.
I have found that every car I have looked at has had the following: The total length of the tie rods and sleeves from Zerk to Zerk is not identical from left to right. Now it could be that I have never seen an original, untouched car where they might be equal. It would be interesting to know if unequal lengths mean an improper installation OR that this is normal. In 2022, I had the front end apart in the red car. I measured a difference in mine, it was a half inch different. I thought that it should be equal so when I reassembled it with new parts, I made them equal and the steering wheel was off center.

 

[Moparfiend]

I “reset” the UCA’s on pavement and it looks a bit better. The passenger side does come up sooner. Is this normal?

There is an offset off the ground seen here about 2” higher on the passenger side. Is this normal?

 

[Moparfiend]

OK I am calling it good. I cycled the suspension and they are now indeed almost the same. Thanks KD it looks like the UCA might have been hung up causing the issue.

 

[Mopar Miki]

un equal tie rod lengths are typically caused by the steering box not being "centered" geometrically. It's a trigonometry thing. With a laser level lots of interesting things can be looked at to see what is what. As for the alignment - remove the shocks so the car can be jounced to settle the suspension during adjustments.

 

[YY1]

I've never heard of that. (removing the shocks)

Yes, adjusting toe does affect both sides- it's changing the length of the steering link.

Yes, it can also alter the centering/angle of the steering wheel.

I use something like this-

..but I made it myself from spare metal stock and EMT.

 

[Moparfiend]

I've never heard of that. (removing the shocks)

Yes, adjusting toe does affect both sides- it's changing the length of the steering link.

Yes, it can also alter the centering/angle of the steering wheel.

I use something like this-

View attachment 1960492

..but I made it myself from spare metal stock and EMT.

What does that contraption do? How is it used?

 

[YY1]

It measures the toe.

You find a point on the rim or tire sidewall, adjust the tool so it touches on both sides, measure it, then repeat on the fore/aft..

Super easy to use.

IMO more accurate than the plates that sit against the bulged sidewall on the bottom and can rock.

 

[Moparfiend]

Guys I have a question. I believe that indeed my steering box may not be centered as @Mopar Miki mentioned above. The problem seems to coincide with the replacement of my Pitman arm.

Two questions:

1. How do I center the box? Do I just center the steering wheel rail to rail?

2. Can I “pop off” the pitman arm to do this? Or do I need to pop it off on the center link connection as well?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Bird 426]

Both the pitman arm and steering wheel have alignment marks.

 

[pnora]

Guys I have a question. I believe that indeed my steering box may not be centered as @Mopar Miki mentioned above. The problem seems to coincide with the replacement of my Pitman arm.

Two questions:

1. How do I center the box? Do I just center the steering wheel rail to rail?

2. Can I “pop off” the pitman arm to do this? Or do I need to pop it off on the center link connection as well?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Gear box lock to lock measured turns and centered. Steering wheel main spline should be at 12 o'clock along with coupler master spline notch at 12 o'clock. Lock down column so wheel can not turn. You then adjust the tie rods so both wheels are straight forward with the correct toe.

 

[Kern Dog]

Gear box lock to lock measured turns and centered. Steering wheel main spline should be at 12 o'clock along with coupler master spline notch at 12 o'clock. Lock down column so wheel can not turn. You then adjust the tie rods so both wheels are straight forward with the correct toe.

No offense but that description sounds like the words of a mechanic, Ron needs it spelled out for a regular guy that is not as familiar with this.
To clarify, one needs to turn the steering wheel full left until it stops. Make note of location of spokes. Now turn the wheel to the right, counting the turns until the steering won’t go any more. This is often around 3 1/2 turns. Take 3 1/2 and divide it by 2. That is 1 3/4 turns each direction from center. At this point, yes… the steering box splines (where the steering coupler attaches) should have a flat spot at the 12:00 position.
Regarding the pitman arm, there really is only one position where it will work since it can only go on 4 places due to the flat spots in the splines are 90 degrees apart.

 

[Moparfiend]

Thanks guys. Understood.
I however shouldn’t need to disconnect the pitman arm from the center link right?

 

[pnora]

Thanks guys. Understood.
I however shouldn’t need to disconnect the pitman arm from the center link right?

Nope.

 

[Geoff 2]

Wheels hang unevenly. Rebound rubbers?

 

[Moparfiend]

Wheels hang unevenly. Rebound rubbers?

Wheels now relatively even. New rubber bumpers. All good now. Just working out the alignment issue.

 

[Mopar Miki]

To center the steering box shims are used on the mounting points. The pitman arm needs to swing in the proper arc - the mounting pts are the x y & z alignment that affect the arc of the pitman arm swing and the geometric center of the box. More geometry.

The "book" from mother mopar direct connection has very technical information regarding the steering linkage alignment, bump steer etc.

As for removing the shocks to jounce the car...that allows the suspension to properly come to rest each and every time after an adjustment.

 

[YY1]

It's easier than that.

Rotate both tie rod sleeves the same amount, in the same direction.
Start with a 1/4 or 1/8 turn.

Look at the steering wheel.
Which way did it move?

Keep doing this (changing the amount as necessary) until it's centered.

I've used a paint pen to mark the starting point and the sleeve.
You can reference the sleeve mark to be sure they're in the same place, and also measure to the starting mark.