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Tor Red vs. Hemi Orange

and yes, your best bet is to have it scanned and the computer picks the whatever formula is the best match whether it`s the correct factory one or a 1986 Yugo color.
 
and yes, your best bet is to have it scanned and the computer picks the whatever formula is the best match whether it`s the correct factory one or a 1986 Yugo color.
Thanks Torred. I guess as long as it matches, that's all that really matters. I'm worried her body might reject Ford paint like someone would a bad organ
 
Seeing your just looking for some touch up paint, I wouldn't worry about it. One thing to remember is if your car has the factory paint on it, it's aged 50+ years and the color has shifted away from the stock color.

Now if you're repainting the entire car then l would get the stock color mixed to the correct specs and not some other color.

I would get a rattle can and not look back. I think I paid $16 for mine, so not a huge expense.

Before you spray, spray a test strip of metal to compare before you spray the car.

One other thing to check on is if your car has enamel or lacquer paint on it.

Keep us posted and post pics of your cars color vs the spray color.
 
I have an update with good news. I went to a different paint shop and got another scan and they told me V2 Hemi Orange was definitely the best match! I believe the issue was the first paint store -- the one that told me Ford Competition Orange was the match -- was searching for a solid color, not a metallic.
When the second store manually changed to search for a solid color, it spit out Ford Comp Orange. But V2 is metallic-- at least my car is clearly metallic -- so I'm good to go. Thanks for all of the help. FBBO is the best
 
V2 is technically the code, the E or other letter is the designation for the first year it was used. Hemi Orange is the same as Tor-Red, Vitamin C is the same as Go-Mango.

That's not entirely correct.

Witness the case of the commonly discussed B5 blue.

1969 was the first year and the code was therefore EB5.

However, in 1971, it was reformulated and the code was GB5.

Then in 1974, it was reformulated again, and the code was KB5.

ALL are technically "B5 blue".

...but they are all quite different.

That's why it's important to use all three digits for 1968 and later fender tag paint codes.
 
...also if there's been any fading, it's likely not going to be a match to a factory formula.
 
That's not entirely correct.

Witness the case of the commonly discussed B5 blue.

1969 was the first year and the code was therefore EB5.

However, in 1971, it was reformulated and the code was GB5.

Then in 1974, it was reformulated again, and the code was KB5.

ALL are technically "B5 blue".

...but they are all quite different.

That's why it's important to use all three digits for 1968 and later fender tag paint codes.
Correct, I guess I should have added that info. The year code is the first year that formula was used and in the case of B5 they kept the same color code but changed the formula slightly hence the different year codes. Thanks for clarifying.
 
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