Torsion Bar / Ride Height Questions

[MikeBarn]

I know torsion bars are often discussed. I've searched as many places as possible with no luck or answers.

I'm trying to raise the front of my car. I've tightened both passenger and driver side 3/4" nuts on the end of the rod, by the LCA. On the passenger side I was able to get 2 full turns. The drivers side wouldn't tighten at all. I sprayed both sides with PB blaster and I'm using a 1/2" socket with a breaker bar. There's only about 3/8" of the thread sticking out the back of the nuts. I also measure the distance on the driver side from the ground to the top of the wheel opening and its 27.5".

Do I need an impact wrench to get these tighter?
Do I need to replace the bars?
Do I need to loosen the nut on the front of the bar, near the K member?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[HitIt]

You do have the car up on jackstands and the wheels hanging right? Just making sure since you didn't mention it. The bars will fatigue and droop. Mine did.

 

[MikeBarn]

Yes, the car is on jack stands and front tires are removed.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Use an impact driver with compressor, I had to and it worked fine was able to get 2 full inches up and then back 3/4's.

 

[Propwash]

grab a map/propane gas torch and heat those puppies up!! Couple smacks with a hammer never hurts either (careful of the threads)

 

[MikeBarn]

grab a map/propane gas torch and heat those puppies up!! Couple smacks with a hammer never hurts either (careful of the threads)

Once tightened all they way up how much thread will show past the nut?

 

[Propwash]

Don't have either one of my cars in front of me, but when I put a new set of bars on my Coronet last year, I had well over an inch of threads past the nut and by no means were they maxed out.

On how far you need them turned in for the proper/wanted height works directly in proportion with your torsion bar size/diameter, tire height and engine/weight sitting in that K-Frame.

If you slapped on shorter tires-rims or ripped out a /six and tossed in a RB block, you may be fighting an uphill battle. Sounds like you just have some rusted/dirty bolts that just need a bit more convincing to thread further into that nut.

Keep in mind, using the bars to maximize your ride height also changes the rebound rate on that spring, thus the quality/performance of your front suspension. You're only going to gain around an inch or so of height by maxing them out. If you're wanting or having to max them out the try and get close or to the height you want up front, you may want to take a look at a taller tire instead of pegging the bars out. Just my opinion

Good luck!

 

[MikeBarn]

After letting the PB Blaster sit overnight. I came home and used the MAP torch to heat them up as much as possible without melting the rubber shock mount and I got a couple turn 1/4 turns out of each side but not as much as I was hoping for. Looks like I gotta tighten them with an impact wrench, which I don't have.

 

[HitIt]

Maybe try loosening them up and then run them back in. That might free them up a bit.

 

[MikeBarn]

Maybe try loosening them up and then run them back in. That might free them up a bit.

Just went and tried. Backed off quite easily, but wouldn't go past where they stopped before.

 

[MikeBarn]

Here's how much thread sticks out the bolt below the LCA:

Here's how much thread sticks out through the front K member:

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

Here's how much thread sticks out the bolt below the LCA:

Here's how much thread sticks out through the front K member:

That is the front strut rod not the torsion bar. The stock strut rod is not adjustable tighten the retainers to spec. Looks like you will want to replace the strut rod bushings. The torsion bar adjusters are located under the middle of the LCA. 3/4 socket head I believe.

 

[Propwash]

Well there's your problem.Those are your strut rods, they are not for adjusting your ride height. Those have a specified torque. You better back them back off, replace the rubber boots in the K-Frame and torque to the required specification.

Your torsion bar adjustment bolts are located on the bottom of your LCA's. There is about a 2.5" long bolt that threads into a nut. The end of that bolt is rounded and seats in to the height and tensioning arm. That arm pivots and is located at the top of the LCA where the lower control arm bushing is and the pivot shaft runs into the k-Frame.

The strut rods are used to hold/set +/- caster. A backward (towards the rear of the car) tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). Typically more of a postive caster is wanted on the old mopars.

 

[MikeBarn]

God damn it. I read online that the bolt was below the lca so I figured that was it. But when I was just under the car I was looking at the "real" torsion bar thinkng, "well damn, that looks like the real tb (as I peer at the hex end of it)".

Anyone have specs on what the front strut rod should be torqued to?

 

[Propwash]

I have 68,69 and 70 service manuals.....If your car falls in one of those years, let me know and i'll look it up for ya.

Happens to the best of us Mike

Damn it Jim i'm a doctor not a ...........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MULMbqQ9LJ8

 

[Propwash]

For those years above..........50 ft/lbs at front nut (K-Fame side), 110 ft/lbs at rear nut (LCA side)

 

[MikeBarn]

This one, huh. A different 3/4". Haha!

 

[Propwash]

That would be the golden ticket!!

 

[MikeBarn]

I have 68,69 and 70 service manuals.....If your car falls in one of those years, let me know and i'll look it up for ya.

Happens to the best of us Mike

Damn it Jim i'm a doctor not a ...........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MULMbqQ9LJ8

I'm a doctor, not a mechanic.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I damn near fell of the couch when I saw the pics and read about his problem, oh man, thanks I needed that!!!