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Trans filter swap fluid add

Kyle Smith

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How much fluid do you add back in after changing the filter on a small block 727 with a standard capacity pan?

Also, is the torque spec different on one piece rubber seals for both the trans pan and the oil pan vs the stock type seal?
 
If your old fluid is new just put it back in
but if not grab a case of ATF4+- any brand that MEETS the spec (that does not say "use for" or "compatible with" etc) will be OK Chrysler licenses the base and additive pkg
you do not need the anti shudder for a locking torque converter but +4 IS a really good synthetic blend, and cost effective
Dexron - Dexron III on longer has any standards-GM does NOT support- many are blended as cheaply as possible- what the heck is DEX III Merc, DM whatever, anyway
If you have an older MOPAR that "required" Type 3+, Dex II or Type A- well- not available for decades (save the Whales)
DO not use DEX VI or Type F- ever
 
How much fluid do you add back in after changing the filter on a small block 727 with a standard capacity pan?

Also, is the torque spec different on one piece rubber seals for both the trans pan and the oil pan vs the stock type seal?

Assuming you're not draining the torque converter, I put in about 4.5 quarts and then start it up, get it warm, shift through all the gears a couple times, put it in neutral and use dipstick to get to correct level. It's better to have not enough fluid by a little than to have too much fluid.
As for torque specs, I torque to 15 ft lbs (I think FSM says 12-13 but I round up). Not sure if one piece rubber would be different. I wouldn't think so.
 
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Too tight is too bad
the hard one piece work well but some over-tighten which bends a stamped steel stock pan
cast aluminum pan does not have these problems
DO NOT USE CRAP SILICONE- it can really plug up your valve body
use Hylomar if you need something- it's removable/ reueable
 
My friend who just retired from the transmission business recommends atf+4 in all mopar transmissions.
 
I was planning on just using TCIs fluid since its a TCI transmission. In regards to the rubber one piece gaskets, do you all still use silicone on them? I was under the impression you didnt need to put silicone on the one piece gaskets except for in the corners of the oil pan.
 
NO SILICONE did you not read my post above?
on the TCI transmission
it depends on the converter- did TCI use oem friction materiel for the converter clutch or something else?
in any case +4 should work even with Alto Clutches
find out what TCI fluid actually is
if it's a Type F or Type F blend or a DEX III or DEX III blend? well is this a race only or change frequently build?
Type F typically tears the friction materiel off the plates on a TF or C4-C6 it's for the Fordomatic/ Borg Warner type trans and late Panther chassis (crown vic)power steering
DEX III definaely will not hold up as long as +4 I'd stay away from B&M trick **** and other similar also- a profit center not a solution
+4 also if you are in cold weather- DEXII does not flow when cold (type VI does but that has other problems with viton seals etc)
If you get below -30 then monitor even +4 or use Allison Transend 295 (or the best is CITGO Quatrasyn which is essentially fill and forget even when really cold or really hot)
See the Allison website for approved 295 (there are two blenders and the rest of the approved rebottle -but many others claim to be "compatible with" but are not
look for a genuine Allison license number on the bottle
you have to use some insight - do the licensed ones work- yes, does Amsoil work- maybe but for how long, does REDLINE (made with type V synthertic) work much more likely, does Quatrasyn work- most definitely- they use the really pricey IV and V synthetics plus a premium additive package- pricey but worth it
I want to see if it would work in the new Chrysler/ZF trans after warranty is up-
 
Maybe we should start a ZF thread
ZF recommends fluid changes- MOPAR does not from Bob is the Oil Guy
"While Dodge, VW/Audi, BMW etc. manuals are saying that it is lifetime fluid, ZF, a manufacturer of tranny says every 60-75K."
"ZF recommends a pan drop every 45k-70k miles under their "severe service" interval."

another post
Redline d6 meets the spec and they state it wont go below 6.1 (However I would not run DEX VI for other reasons- maybe C+)DEX VI is a II-III blend AFIL)
Ram Zf requires a different approach to a conventional ATF formulation.
Rather than beginning with a 7.5 cSt fluid and allowing a viscosity loss in use to drop to 5.5 cSt,
the ZF fluid requires a starting viscosity of less than 6.4 and a final drop to no less than 5.5 cSt.
Red Line D6 will drop to no less than 6.1 cSt." (visc at 100)

That's the same way Quatrasyn works- starts out thinner which is why it's the best when really cold- but uses the premium Base Synthetics-PAO and Ester
To meet the spec you need a PAO or Ester base, so it does not shear down nearly as much- does not use the long chain Viscosity modifying polymers that do shear down
 
Just a disclaimer- Redline used to supply lube for our trans-am car
but I have not been to their website for awhile
https://www.redlineoil.com/automatic-transmission-fluids
well worth a visit
see the C+ Data Sheet for 4+ uses It actually has a very good cold weather performance compatibility chart does not list ZF 8-9 speed applications
does list for both 604 and 518
not D4 or "high temp" (but you built trans guys may want to check them out"
would D6 work for the ZF trans? IDK compatibility chart does not list it
I don't see a listing for the Allison - the one I looked at said not recommended so check out carefully
 
I love this forum, sad I took a break because I wasn't working on my car. What a wealth of knowledge! Thanks everyone!
 
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