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Tremec TKX 5-Speed Conversion

CoronetDarter, would it be possible for you to take pictures of the clearance of the trans to the torsion bar crossmember? Specifically around the shifter/rear shifter plate and the clearence around the driver side where the hump would be and the case of the trans (i know you dont have the 4 speed hump of course) thanks
 
Or, Mopar4Speed, just call Zack at Silver Sport Transmissions in Tennessee and ask him. They not only sell the modified Tremec transmissions but lots of adapters for various installs. Knowledgeable and pleasant to deal with.
 
Or, Mopar4Speed, just call Zack at Silver Sport Transmissions in Tennessee and ask him. They not only sell the modified Tremec transmissions but lots of adapters for various installs. Knowledgeable and pleasant to deal with.
Honestly i messaged MDL, american powertrain and sst.. all of them said its just a specified kit per car. They say it mimics the exact shifter location as original, which it doesnt. Only looks stock on console cars because the console hides the big hole/raised middle section of the new shifter. So its more of a out of sight out of mind kinda thing. I unfortunately have a non console 4 speed, so the hump is already there plus the raised flat section just looks dumb with no shifter there. If i had an auto trans tunnel i wouldn't care as much. Also like the bench seat and just got a new legendary skin put on. So I'm not getting a console either. The Gm a body trans style mdl might be the closest thing with the bel air offset handle depending on how much room there is. Also someone correct me if im wrong but the issue i see is the mopar tkx is actually a ford tkx? Anybody confirm this?
 
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Honestly i messaged MDL, american powertrain and sst.. all of them said its just a specified kit per car. They say it mimics the exact shifter location as original, which it doesnt. Only looks stock on console cars because the console hides the big hole/raised middle section of the new shifter. So its more of a out of sight out of mind kinda thing. I unfortunately have a non console 4 speed, so the hump is already there plus the raised flat section just looks dumb with no shifter there. If i had an auto trans tunnel i wouldn't care as much. Also like the bench seat and just got a new legendary skin put on. So I'm not getting a console either. The Gm a body trans style mdl might be the closest thing with the bel air offset handle depending on how much room there is. Also someone correct me if im wrong but the issue i see is the mopar tkx is actually a ford tkx? Anybody confirm this?
They use the Ford trans because the length of the input shaft Is better suited for the Mopar application & Tremec doesn't offer a Mopar version.... The "Belair" shifter would work on the Ford TKX the same way it works on the GM TKX..
 
Here's another offset shifter..

 
Yea right on I saw that one too. That one won't work though as the shifter would directly interfere with the t-bar crossmember. It needs to be more forward to get close-ish to the stock hole. Obviously since its not an engineered kit but at least close to the ballpark would be nice, assuming someone with one already installed could provide some measurements and pics. It would be nice if they actually bothered to make a 66-70 perfect fit kit like they did for the e bodies. I feel like it's a huge market they are losing out on. It's the bulk of the cars people would actually pay to get a proper overdrive and have fun driving. There are way more 66-70 b bodies out there then 70-74 e bodies..
 
If it needs to be further forward there are two other locations all ready available...... Just use the same design as what's there but modify it to use a different location.... You can either be the first & potentially market your design... Or you can bitch that it's not available...
 
If it needs to be further forward there are two other locations all ready available...... Just use the same design as what's there but modify it to use a different location.... You can either be the first & potentially market your design... Or you can bitch that it's not available...
Not bitching, that's why I'm here to find a solution and get some crucial measurements and pics to see if its even possible. Because if i have to hack up the floor and crossmember i might as well go t56 magnum
 
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Not bitching, that's why I'm here to find a solution and get some crutial measurements and pics to see if its even possible. Because if i have to hack up the floor and crossmember i might as well go t56 magnum
Well Then...Excellent... Hopefully it can be made to work...
 
From the thread... Looks like the forward location can be made to work.... Need to see what they are doing to offset the shifter and it appears they cut down the two rear shifter locations for clearance...


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Hey...that picture was taken at my place!
 
Thinking about it more, I'd be far better off pulling the engine/transmission and doing the whole lot on the garage floor. I'd have to cut a big enough hole in the tunnel to make sure it went back in ok but it would save a lot of headaches.
Maybe.
The task of measuring runout would be easier.
You can actually measure from the face of the bellhousing to the shifter to determine where the shifter hole needs to be in the transmission tunnel. We did this on this car, then confirmed it by test fitting the trans and bell in the car before installing the clutch.
With the engine out, installing the hydraulic clutch master cylinder would be easier.
Many of us have swapped transmissions with cars on jackstands. What we did then can still be done, it just isn't as easy if you've lost some flexibility or strength. It wasn't just a matter of slipping the transmission in either....The SST instructions clearly state to NOT use the bolts to pull the transmission tight to the bell housing....breakage of the mounting ears on the transmission case is a risk.
BUT in the three times I have attached a Tremec to a bell housing, each time it was a really snug fit. Shaking and shoving the transmission takes a lot out of even a guy in good shape.
Maybe you might actually have an advantage if you're doing it on jackstands because you could have your back on the floor as leverage. When standing with the car on a lift, you're pushing with your arms overhead where your leverage isn't so good. Your upper back isn't supported when pushing and shaking. I'd sure want the back end of the car on the floor to avoid the chance of the car falling off the jack stands.

I can certainly vouch for it being much easier.

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CoronetDarter, would it be possible for you to take pictures of the clearance of the trans to the torsion bar crossmember? Specifically around the shifter/rear shifter plate and the clearence around the driver side where the hump would be and the case of the trans (i know you dont have the 4 speed hump of course) thanks
Been a busy weekend and I'm just catching up to posts tonight. I can take some pics next weekend when I'm back in the garage.
You already having a 4 spd tunnel, I understand why you want an offset shifter.
Me personally, I prefer the shifter in the middle of the tunnel. I've driven several 4 spd B Bodies over the years and the shifter hits my right knee in 1st and 2nd. The TKX allows me to man-spread.
 
The holidays chewed up most of my weekends since bringing the Coronet home in early December. But it was a great Christmas spent with the family and the grandkids. I hope everyone also had a Merry Christmas.
I was able to pull in some garage time last weekend, and this being a three day weekend I was able to spend parts of all three days finishing up.
Basically, the interior had to go back together. I drove back from Greg's house with only the drivers seat bolted down. Before starting, there were a few under dash items to tidy up.
When I moved the battery to the trunk, I home-runned the 1/0 cable and the wires from the solenoid up through the firewall. As posted earlier, the 1/0 cable had to be re-routed before the 3rd pedal was installed. There's an 8 ga red wire and 12 ga blue wire running to the starter relay, and both wires were about 18" too long, leaving unsightly service loops under the dash. Both have been shortened and routed away from the pedal assemblies.
This pic, taken back in October after the clutch pedal was installed, shows the unruliness. The 1/0 has already been re-routed. The 8 ga parallels the 1/0 to the steering column, and then you can see the service loop zip tied to the steering column. The blue wire is looped on the far left, by the E-brake cable. Plain messy. The 14 ga pink wire looping down by the high-beam foot switch is left over from the EFI system; the other end is disconnected in the trunk.
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Now, the service loop is gone and both the blue and red wire parallel the 1/0 with zip ties, before arcing upwards thru the firewall. The pink wire was cut back to the plastic sheathing. In this pic you can see that the carpeting, accelerator pedal, kick panel and fresh air box have been installed.
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The other puzzling item was the reverse lights working in 'run' without the engine running, but after 'crank', the lights went out. I first addressed it in post 362, with several follow up posts afterwards.
Something in the Start circuit overrides the reverse light circuit, even when the key returns back to Run. Reversing the wires is the first step.
My post #372. Coincidentally (or not), the turn signals and dash gauges weren't working either. The first thing I did was reverse the backup switch at the tranny; that wasn't it. I stumbled upon the answer this weekend while randomly flicking the key while in the ignition switch.
After crank, with the engine running and the key in 'run', I lightly pressured the key counterclockwise. It moved just a hair, and in my fingers I felt a slight 'snick', and the gauges started working, the turn signals worked, and there was power to the reverse lights.
It's a almost brand-new ignition switch, but it seems that the return spring rotates the cylinder enough to turn off the start circuit, but not quite enough to engage the switched circuit. The slight pressure rotates the cylinder enough to engage.
Eventually I'll disassemble the switch to see what's going on, but I have power.
Speaking of power, the car is a different animal with the TKX. With the low 1st gear and 3.55's out back, the car jumps off the line. With the final bleeding and adjustment at Greg's, the clutch play is instantaneous. There's no comparison to the high stall converter. It is a BLAST to drive.
Converting the auto to the TKX is a game changer.
 
Or, Mopar4Speed, just call Zack at Silver Sport Transmissions in Tennessee and ask him. They not only sell the modified Tremec transmissions but lots of adapters for various installs. Knowledgeable and pleasant to deal with.
Chris, on the tech side at SST, has also been very helpful during the project.
 
From the thread... Looks like the forward location can be made to work.... Need to see what they are doing to offset the shifter and it appears they cut down the two rear shifter locations for clearance...


View attachment 1582964

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thanks for posting those pics. So looks like there is not enough clearence on the front of the driver crossmember with the gm a-body trans which is a bummer. It seems to be about the middle of the crossmember where the OP had cut the one mounting boss off. So carefully judging by the pics its not gonna work
 
Been a busy weekend and I'm just catching up to posts tonight. I can take some pics next weekend when I'm back in the garage.
You already having a 4 spd tunnel, I understand why you want an offset shifter.
Me personally, I prefer the shifter in the middle of the tunnel. I've driven several 4 spd B Bodies over the years and the shifter hits my right knee in 1st and 2nd. The TKX allows me to man-spread.
I went with the center shifter location because I was going with a modern center console. Unfortunately it puts the shifter right in the middle of the cross-member. I had to build a new bolt in piece to reinforce what was cut away.
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Been a busy weekend and I'm just catching up to posts tonight. I can take some pics next weekend when I'm back in the garage.
You already having a 4 spd tunnel, I understand why you want an offset shifter.
Me personally, I prefer the shifter in the middle of the tunnel. I've driven several 4 spd B Bodies over the years and the shifter hits my right knee in 1st and 2nd. The TKX allows me to man-spread.

Thanks that would great. Thats a fair point. Kinda makes me wish i had an auto tunnel and just enjoy the trans. But i just put in a brand new amd floor and hump so i really dont want to hack it up. If push comes to shove I will just go full up and go t56 magnum, eventually. I would really like the 6 speed for interstate trips at 80mph+
 
I went with the center shifter location because I was going with a modern center console. Unfortunately it puts the shifter right in the middle of the cross-member. I had to build a new bolt in piece to reinforce what was cut away.
View attachment 1583865
I'd like to see a pic of the top side with the console.
 
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