Trick Flow 295 Heads

[Mopar Hunter]

What do the Trick Flow 295cc heads flow?

Found this on the Fakebook.

 

[Aron Gleason]

So I emailed trick flow and their response was the 295 heads are designed for 500+ cubic inch motors and high compression. So I'll just concentrate on having a motor built around the 270 heads.

 

[Aron Gleason]

Found this on the Fakebook.

View attachment 1961760

I doubt that would make for a streetable motor, but I could be wrong lol

 

[Dan64]

Well as far as I know , other than the full manual valve body its a stock transmission with good parts in it to handle 700 horsepower. Stock input shaft, stock sprag.

You're going to want to do some upgrades on that trans if you are anywhere near 600-700 hp. Most important would be a steel front drum for safety, your valve body should also have low band apply ,a drag sprag from cope or A&A ,good clutches, etc. I bought a TCI ( total crap inside) 700 hp "competition" trans for my 64', it didn't make 100 miles. Check out CRT -Cope racing transmissions. They have do it yourself packages they will give you some insight as to what you really want in your trans.

 

[451Mopar]

You're going to want to do some upgrades on that trans if you are anywhere near 600-700 hp. Most important would be a steel front drum for safety, your valve body should also have low band apply ,a drag sprag from cope or A&A ,good clutches, etc. I bought a TCI ( total crap inside) 700 hp "competition" trans for my 64', it didn't make 100 miles. Check out CRT -Cope racing transmissions. They have do it yourself packages they will give you some insight as to what you really want in your trans.

The aluminum front planetary gear is another part, the splines can strip out with high HP. The heavier the vehicle, the more stress on the parts.
The Low band apply valve body, Billet Front Drum, and Drag Sprag (Cope) or Super Sprag (A&A) are upgrades for safety to prevent drum explosions.
It's easy to get $5,000 + in upgrades to a 727.
The Built 48RE for the diesels can be $10,000+

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Cope says do the 727 billet front drum first over the other mods for safety if your making much power.

It's interesting the TF295 is flowed on a 4.5" bore and bigger 2 1/8 exh pipe. I wonder how much that adds over a 4.35" and a 2". The exhaust port cc is unchanged but is showing more flow over a 240/270.

 

[dvw]

I build plenty of these. Almost every street unit runs the stock drum. The drum can be a safety issue. Though I've personally never hurt one. A good drum , TF2 kit or manual valve body, quality frictions from Raybetos, Borg Warner, or Alto. I prefer the hard band. 3.8-4.2 lever, $30 46RH trans pan with a billet E bay filter extension. This combo will survive 750hp with ease for years of use. No need for low band apply or a steel planet at this power level.
Doug

 

[Aron Gleason]

I build plenty of these. Almost every street unit runs the stock drum. The drum can be a safety issue. Though I've personally never hurt one. A good drum , TF2 kit or manual valve body, quality frictions from Raybetos, Borg Warner, or Alto. I prefer the hard band. 3.8-4.2 lever, $30 46RH trans pan with a billet E bay filter extension. This combo will survive 750hp with ease for years of use. No need for low band apply or a steel planet at this power level.
Doug

I dont know what low band apply is, but im happy with my full manual valve body I've had for almost 30 years

 

[451Mopar]

I build plenty of these. Almost every street unit runs the stock drum. The drum can be a safety issue. Though I've personally never hurt one. A good drum , TF2 kit or manual valve body, quality frictions from Raybetos, Borg Warner, or Alto. I prefer the hard band. 3.8-4.2 lever, $30 46RH trans pan with a billet E bay filter extension. This combo will survive 750hp with ease for years of use. No need for low band apply or a steel planet at this power level.
Doug

Maybe I just had bad luck with my planetary gear. The aluminum splines were cracked and falling out on my slow 11 second 4,200 pound car, and that was just foot brake bracket racing, no trans brake.

 

[Dan64]

4000 lbs street car, sticky tires 640/650 493 . I’m glad I had a billet steel drum and low band apply

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I dont know what low band apply is, but im happy with my full manual valve body I've had for almost 30 years

The very back drum is held stationary to take off in 1st. If you don't have low band apply the sprag clutch is the only thing holding it place. If you do have low band apply in your valvebody it applies the rear band and the sprag is holding it. 30 years ago common was the theory that releasing the low band adversely affected the 2nd gear shift so they didn't hold it with the band. The solution was to install a bolt in sprag to take the abuse. But if that sprag gives up like the previous post..the stock front drum turns so fast it explodes. So even with a bolt in sprag..the best safest solution is a aftermarket billet or hybrid billet front drum.

 

[dvw]

I've only ever stripped a planet in my racecar. It weighs between 3360-3600 depending on ballast to run index (9.25), or flat out in the high 8 second zone. So yes I would say you had bad luck with the planetary. Still many cars using the low roller clutch (what many call the sprag) as the only means of holding the drum. Which is also how it is held in the factory transmission when D is selected. I build many hot rod and Race 727's. Usually 15-20 units a year. Never had a customer lose a low roller or a drum. Obviously correct driving technique should be used. If there has been drivetrain failure in 1st gear, the trans shoud be taken apart and checked. For what it's worth the worst beat up low roller I've repaired was in a car that had low band apply. It was shuddering pretty bad in 1st gear. I'd like to know the story on how the failure occured in post #30. It appears to be a bolt in low roller. It obiviously didn't stop any carnage. Though that failure ruined the case, if it had a good drum that was the end of any further explosion.
Doug

 

[Mopar Hunter]

I can’t believe nobody has asked yet if these would work on their 383?

 

[451Mopar]

I've only ever stripped a planet in my racecar. It weighs between 3360-3600 depending on ballast to run index (9.25), or flat out in the high 8 second zone. So yes I would say you had bad luck with the planetary. Still many cars using the low roller clutch (what many call the sprag) as the only means of holding the drum. Which is also how it is held in the factory transmission when D is selected. I build many hot rod and Race 727's. Usually 15-20 units a year. Never had a customer lose a low roller or a drum. Obviously correct driving technique should be used. If there has been drivetrain failure in 1st gear, the trans shoud be taken apart and checked. For what it's worth the worst beat up low roller I've repaired was in a car that had low band apply. It was shuddering pretty bad in 1st gear. I'd like to know the story on how the failure occured in post #30. It appears to be a bolt in low roller. It obiviously didn't stop any carnage. Though that failure ruined the case, if it had a good drum that was the end of any further explosion.
Doug

Thanks. My planet wasn't totally stripped, just a few splines fell out when I removed it. It was the factory 4-pinion version. Caught it when upgrading the transmission for the new bigger stroker. That is when I upgraded the sprag and drum. I wasn't planning to upgrade the planetary gear as that was an unexpected hit to the wallet.
The picture looks like the A&A Super Sprag? Hard to tell as I didn't zoom in on the photo, but has the 6-bolt holes and looks like 16 roller ramps? Just don't want readers to confuse the different "Bolt-in" sprags. There are factory style 12 element sprags that are modified to "bolt-in", but they are intended to just be a repair part for a bad case. The Performance sprags I believe have 16 rollers vs. the factory 12. The story on the blown up sprag would be interesting. maybe accidently shifted into reverse at speed?
Had a guy strip out a factory pressed in sprag trying to rock his truck out of snow by slamming the trans between forward and reverse.
Also, had a shift kit with the modification that allows first gear select at any speed. Please don't do that modification, Over-reved the engine and bent valves when down-shifting, intending to select second and grabbed first.
There seems to be some confusion on burnouts too. Many say to do burnout in second gear, but that was the instructions for a manual valve body with no low bad apply.
With a factory type forward pattern valve body, selecting second gear is the same as drive, it just keeps from shifting into third, but still starts of in low without the rear bad applied.
Selecting 1st gear (manual low) will apply the rear band which is how you want to start the burn out and then shift into second gear.

Seems this got off topic.