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Turn the key and nothing happens..... HELP

Run - start

Oh WTF?!?! any chance you got alligator clips while at parts store and can make a better jumper wire? I'm curious about if the relay is being grounded properly.

With the test light on that yellow wire tab, does it light up when turning the key now with the new relay?

Maybe when testing the yellow ign wire he is not turning the key to start, only to run.
 
Fuses OK, relay OK, N safety switch OK, battery OK. It's sounding like it may be a little further down the line...like maybe the positive coil wire, or the coil itself.
 
check your big harness connector under the dash, the one that comes out of the steering column, it will be white/creme colored...not the light blue harness connector...

also, check/clean your bulkhead harnesses on the firewall...

I've had the same no start issue you have and it was both dirty/bad connections at the bulkhead harness and the ignition harness coming out of the steering column...
 
I'm turning it all the way, it doesn't light up. Maybe the signal from turning the key isn't reaching the relay. Does that make sense or not?

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check your big harness connector under the dash, the one that comes out of the steering column, it will be white/creme colored...not the light blue harness connector...

also, check/clean your bulkhead harnesses on the firewall...

I've had the same no start issue you have and it was both dirty/bad connections at the bulkhead harness and the ignition harness coming out of the steering column...
I don't knoe what the big white harness connector is or the bulkhead???
 
Well now I'm stumped. Hopefully someone else will step in now and help troubleshoot.

So here's today in summary:
1) Starter relay works with remote trigger hooked to starter relay;
2) Neutral safety switch has continuity at transmission;
3) Ignition key circuit at starter relay does not test good;
4) Grounding starter relay to battery also does not test good.
 
If i understand right, i think i can just connectthe two yellow wires going into the interlock bypass system and it would bypass it. Ill try it. Im running out of possibilities...

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Well I tried that and that didn't work...

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Tried bypassing it and it still doesnt do anything.
 
subscribed!! i want to see where all this ends up!!

on a side note, helluva job walkin' this young gun through the process 440beep. bravo! :headbang:
 
You have no idea how "bothered" I am that my processes didn't solve the problem!!!!

subscribed!! i want to see where all this ends up!!

on a side note, helluva job walkin' this young gun through the process 440beep. bravo! :headbang:
 
So when you say the car does nothing, does that mean the car is:

a) turning over, but not firing and actually starting; or
b) is completely silent and not turning over
 
Completely silent and not doing anything. Unless I use my remote starter hooked up to the starter relay. Then it turns over but there is no spark. I just rebuilt the top end of my engine and how a new ignition system. It ran before the build but then when I put everything back together it would crank over but there wasnt any spark. I connected these two wires that i thought went together and then tried cranking it and it didnt move or make a noise at all. I disconnected the wires but it still doesnt crank over or make a noise at all.
 
I saw you over at the other forum. My screen name over there is Kern Dog.
I have read every post here. I'm surprised that nobody has asked you about the ignition switch in the steering column.
These usually do not fail immediately, they fail intermittently over time. I'ver seen the molded connectors get brittle and crack, allowing a loose connection. I recall reading that members have mentioned to check all of the connections. This means every place where a wire is connected to another wire by way of a clip, a plug or even some electrical tape.
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I do this: I'll turn the key to the RUN position, then get out and trip the relay with a screwdriver. If it fires up and runs, I usually suspect a problem with the wiring under the dash somewhere. If the car spis over but does not start, do THIS: Remove the #1 spark plug wire. Insert a spare spark plug in it, then trip the relay and let the engine spin over. If the spark plug is getting spark, you then have either an ignition timing issue or a fuel issue.
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You mentioned that the car has NOT been able to run since the "upgrades". There have been many times that I have done the same. You bump or move something while working on the car and don't even know it.

The seat belt interlock system may still be a factor here. In the 1974 model Dusters I have dealt with, there is a plastic "brain" for the system under the dash. It is a small computer board housed in a light blue connector about 1/2" X 4" long. It has about 10 wires running through it, maybe more. Some wires (Yellow) run to that reset relay you posted. The others run to the seats, the dash warning light, a POS and a ground....
The TWO yellow wires that lead to the starter relay are NOT there on the older cars. Pre 1973 cars only had 1 yellow wire to the relay. The OTHER yellow wire is for the Seat Belt system.
 
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I haven't got any spark since I put new heads on. (That is if my spark tester light works, its brand new but who knows) it turned over for after I put the heDs on but then I connected two wires and that must have fried something or knocked something loose because now it seems like the key isn't evem hooked up. Okay Kern dog, what does the ignition switch look like and how can I test it?

When I hook my remote starter on the relay it turns over but the spark tester reads no spark. I feel like this is a seperate issue. How do I check every wire under the dash? Its a rats nest under there. The previous ownerreally hacked it up.

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I thought I bypasses the seatbelt interlock system. So could that still be a probleem?
 
Ok, lets rule this issue out. With the test light, go back to the fuse panel. Put the test light alligator clip to a good ground again. Put the ignition key in the "on" position, and retest those fuses that lit up yesterday, but you need to test both sides of each fuse to make sure both sides light up. If not, replace that fuse with a new one.

Also, when using the remote trigger on the starter relay, is the ignition key in the "on" position? If not, the car will just crank and crank.

But something else is afoul here, because if the ignition key circuit was good on the starter relay (or from the ignition key), the test light should light up when turning the ignition key to start. Might that seat belt interlocking system have something to do with this since it too has yellow wires going to/from it and if the starter relay has to go through that first, then the issue has to be before the starter relay.

C'mon now, where's our '73 guys at?!?!
 
Under the dash, 3 of the 8 fuses light up on both sides but the other 5 don't. They all look like they have the metal piece across them but could they be burnt out?

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With the remote starter I did turn the key and it just kept cranking and my spark tester read no spark. I think I bypasses the interlock bypass system. I'm thinking ignition switch, but I don't know how to test this?
 
Under the dash, 3 of the 8 fuses light up on both sides but the other 5 don't. They all look like they have the metal piece across them but could they be burnt out?

Check both sides of the 5 dead fuses for 12V power...The INSIDE PRONG of ALL the fuse prongs on the fuse block should have 12V when the key is on..The outside should have continuing 12V power if the fuse/s are good....

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here's a fuse box diagram....disregard the yellow writing and arrow...

nmykw6.jpg
 
alright ill check now

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The 3 that lit up have 11.95V on both sides and the other 5 read no V on both sides. Does this mean the fuses are bad or they arent even getting any power? The fuses that work are the bottom 3 on the left side.
 
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