Turn the key and nothing happens..... HELP

[440beep]

I think he wanted you to pull out those "dead" fuses and check the voltage at the metal fuse holders where the fuses plug in and see if those metal holders were getting 12v. If they are, then the fuses must be blown since the fuses aren't lighting up. Pretty sure that's what he was targeting.

alright ill check now

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The 3 that lit up have 11.95V on both sides and the other 5 read no V on both sides. Does this mean the fuses are bad or they arent even getting any power? The fuses that work are the bottom 3 on the left side.

 

[Someotherguy]

No volts on either side means the entire circuit for what the fuses control ARE NOT getting power...The fuses are not the problem...Something is fried, or something is unplugged causing these circuits to not have power at the fuse box...

Which 5 circuits are dead according to the fuse block picture i posted..?

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I think he wanted you to pull out those "dead" fuses and check the voltage at the metal fuse holders where the fuses plug in and see if those metal holders were getting 12v. If they are, then the fuses must be blown since the fuses aren't lighting up. Pretty sure that's what he was targeting.

Meh, It doesn't matter if the fuses are in or out for that particular test...I just wanted to verify if the circuits for them fuses are even getting power to begin with....

 

[74Runneer]

The bottom 3 on the left side have power. The rest dont. (according to your picture)

 

[Someotherguy]

Ok, now to check the bulkhead connections, the bulkhead connector assembly is basically the other side of your fusebox inside the engine bay....The bulkhead connector on your car is directly under your windshield wiper motor..like the picture below, but not the exact picture of a roadrunner bulkhead connector...

You got to squeeze and pull the plastic sides of the connectors to get them apart...be careful because they are sometimes old/brittle and can break...



Once you separate the individual harness plugs from the bulkhead, Check the connections for burnt prongs...clean and reinstall the connectors

 

[74Runneer]

I cant get 1 of the 4 connectors off. What do i clean them with?

 

[Someotherguy]

clean them with a small wire brush, you can get these at walmart, or most any hardware stores for a couple dollars...

then after you clean them, smear some dielectric grease in the connectors(available at most auto parts stores), dont be shy with the grease, use plenty...just put some grease on one of the wire brushes and smear it in the connectors...

 

[Someotherguy]

And BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE BEFORE CLEANING THE CONNECTORS...


Here is the wiring diagrams for your car....

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74SatelliteRoadRunnerA.JPG

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74SatelliteRoadRunnerB.JPG

 

[74Runneer]

Here they are, do they look that bad?Ill get some wire brushes and greese now

 

[Someotherguy]

It doesn't matter how they look, clean and grease them up..Since none of us are personally standing next to your car, all we can do is eliminate the common issues that cause these cars to not start...Doing this over the internet is not easy lol....If i was there personally, i would prolly have the car running before the day is done...but here's how we gotta do it

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To be honest with you, this problem is likely something very simple, and most likely something caused by you when you swapped the heads out lol..It happens to the best of us, believe me :laughing6:...

 

[440beep]

BBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHA!!! Sorry to laugh, but that's the truth. THanks for helping with this.

...Doing this over the internet is not easy lol....If i was there personally, i would prolly have the car running before the day is done...but here's how we gotta do it

 

[Someotherguy]

I remember one time when i removed/cleaned all my lifters...When i put it all back together, i could not get the car to start, i fiddled and fiddled AND FIDDLED with every part on that damn car try to get it start...well, it turned out that i had the coil wires reversed..DOH!

 

[74Runneer]

Oh i know, if you guys were here I'm sure you'd be able to fix it in like 10 mins haha. Ive been working on it for the last two weeks!!!!!!!! But hey im tryin so that has to count for something! Ill clean them now. I know it was caused by me (didnt hook something up right, burnt something up, knocked a wire off, bad connection etc). While im getting this stuff, what would be the next thing to check for, assuming that cleaning them doesnt change anything?

 

[440beep]

I'm guessing that will be the next step, is to start on the ignition side. But why doesn't that ignition key circuirt work on the starter relay. Guess we shall see after the firewall "boxes" are cleaned and lubed.

I remember one time when i removed/cleaned all my lifters...When i put it all back together, i could not get the car to start, i fiddled and fiddled AND FIDDLED with every part on that damn car try to get it start...well, it turned out that i had the coil wires reversed..DOH!

 

[Someotherguy]

Another thing...the ecu/ignition control module Must be grounded...be sure you have good ground to body on the box...test for good ground, don't just guess its good because it's mounted...

 

[440beep]

Exactly on point. On that orange ignition box, the back where the bolts go through should be ground down to bare metal and have no orange paint around those bolt holes. Likewise on the firewall where it bolts to, it should be bare metal, you want bare metal to bare metal and rub that dielectric grease on it. I ran an extra ground wire from one mounting bolt to the firewall engine ground as extra insurance.

Another thing...the ecu/ignition control module Must be grounded...be sure you have good ground to body on the box...test for good ground, don't just guess its good because it's mounted...

 

[Kern Dog]

Could be unrelated, but since we are trying EVERYthing.....
For years I had an intermittent NO START issue with my 70 Charger. I'd replaced the 318 and points ignition in 2001 with a 440 and the Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition kit. Sometimes it would crank and get no spark. The underhood wiring was original. Sometimes changing the spark box helped, sometimes I'd try a different distributor. Lucky for me I have an extensive parts stash and other Mopars here to test parts.
This year I had enough of it. I figured that the engine bay wiring was to blame, so I replaced it. Just before changing the harness, I found that all along, the distributor was to blame. The reluctor is held in place by two tiny roll pins. One was missing and the other was worn down to almost nothing. What was happening was the reluctor wheel would shift out of its position and try to spark out of phase, in effect providing zero spark or signal to the coil. I replaced the reluctor, roll pins and the pickup and the car has been totally reliable since.
My point is that sometimes a problem isn't immediately obvious, it may require digging around.

 

[Someotherguy]

Could be unrelated, but since we are trying EVERYthing.....
For years I had an intermittent NO START issue with my 70 Charger. I'd replaced the 318 and points ignition in 2001 with a 440 and the Mopar Performance Electronic Ignition kit. Sometimes it would crank and get no spark. The underhood wiring was original. Sometimes changing the spark box helped, sometimes I'd try a different distributor. Lucky for me I have an extensive parts stash and other Mopars here to test parts.
This year I had enough of it. I figured that the engine bay wiring was to blame, so I replaced it. Just before changing the harness, I found that all along, the distributor was to blame. The reluctor is held in place by two tiny roll pins. One was missing and the other was worn down to almost nothing. What was happening was the reluctor wheel would shift out of its position and try to spark out of phase, in effect providing zero spark or signal to the coil. I replaced the reluctor, roll pins and the pickup and the car has been totally reliable since.
My point is that sometimes a problem isn't immediately obvious, it may require digging around.

My last no start issue was the same, a bad distributor...the car would always start up and run fine when cold, but would leave me stranded somewhere in town as soon as i shut it off.....I think something was wrong with the reluctor, It kept back feeding the coil until it got so hot that it quit working...and i mean HOT, you could fry bacon on the coil after 20 or so miles...

 

[74Runneer]

I cleaned the connectors and greased them up and installed them. Then I took off the ecu and sanded the bolt holes to bare metal for a better ground. I then put it back on and while tightening it up I broke the bolt head off. So now there's a stud in my firewall that I can't grab... ugh

 

[Someotherguy]

you can grab the other end of the bolt from inside the cowl....remove the plastic cowl cover on the passenger side, then feel against the firewall for the bolt end, if you can, get a small pair of pliers in there and remove the broken bolt...

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but first...go check something for me...put your positive cable back on the battery, then check-n-see if your headlights work, dont try to start it, or even turn the key on...

 

[74Runneer]

Yes they work