Turn the key and nothing happens..... HELP

[Someotherguy]

ok...is the other ecu mounting bolt tight..?

 

[74Runneer]

Got the stud out. Going to get a new one.

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The other one was on but not tight

 

[Someotherguy]

if you can, run another bolt thru the hole that you can put a nut on the other side of (inside the cowl opening)...that way it cant strip out the firewall hole by just running another bolt into it...

 

[74Runneer]

Okay the ecu is back on, I put nuts on the back so I won't strip it. So now everything is greased up amd ready to go. Still nothing... now what?

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Well I'm stupid... I was going over everything again and was about to check the neutral safety and noticed I never put the wires back on it. So I tested for a ground on the nss and I can't seem to get it anymore. I put my mulitimeter on continuity buzzer function put one probe on the middle prong and the other to the frame and I can't get it to beep. It beeps if I put one prong on the nss itself and the other to the frame. So maybe it was this after all?

 

[Someotherguy]

wow lol....still wont start eh..? :sad5:

Well here we go with some wire tracing lol....

Look under your dash by the steering column, you should have a couple wire harnesses coming out of the steering column...locate and indentify a flat white colored harness connector...

It should look like the white colored harness connector to the right of the fuse box in the picture below, next to the blueish looking connector...

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Okay the ecu is back on, I put nuts on the back so I won't strip it. So now everything is greased up amd ready to go. Still nothing... now what?

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Well I'm stupid... I was going over everything again and was about to check the neutral safety and noticed I never put the wires back on it. So I tested for a ground on the nss and I can't seem to get it anymore. I put my mulitimeter on continuity buzzer function put one probe on the middle prong and the other to the frame and I can't get it to beep. It beeps if I put one prong on the nss itself and the other to the frame. So maybe it was this after all?

you can bypass the nss, but be aware that the car will start in any gear with it bypassed so be sure the damn thing is in park lol.....simply put the wire from the starter relay that goes to the nss to a body ground....i have mine grounded at the wiper motor grounding bolt...you should see a ground wire already on one of the wiper motor mounting bolts...

 

[74Runneer]

Okay I tried grounding the the nss tab and I just did it to the neg battery and it did nothing

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Yeah I see the white connecter. In the middle of it there is a part where it looks like it melted

 

[Someotherguy]

Okay I tried grounding the the nss tab and I just did it to the neg battery and it did nothing

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Yeah I see the white connecter. In the middle of it there is a part where it looks like it melted

ok, there is likely your problem...which wire looks melted in the connector..?...it's probably the red wire...

snap a picture of it for us if you can...

 

[440beep]

what about those 5 fuses in the fuse panel that won't light up with the test light?

 

[74Runneer]

this doesnt look right

 

[Someotherguy]

yep, looks like the red one lol, if not the brown one will cause a no start issue also...

It's up to you now...you can bypass the burnt wire in the harness by cutting both sides off and splicing them together...personally i would bypass the entire harness since it has been damaged....

just be sure your electrical work done well, you dont want them wires to come loose under there and short more crap out lol...

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BTW, that harness goes directly to your ignition switch...

 

[74Runneer]

whats the best way to bypass them? using these?

 

[Someotherguy]

the large red wire in that harness is a constant hot that feeds directly off the main hot wire going to your amp meter on the dash...

The big brown wire is the direct trigger wire that feeds the + side of your coil when you turn the key to the start position...

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whats the best way to bypass them? using these? View attachment 130447

The best way would be to solder the connections together, then seal with electrical shrink tubing...but them bullet connectors will work in a pinch, but still use shrink tubing on them...

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You still need to see if the burnt wire is still hot...test it first...and confirm which wire is burnt...

 

[Kern Dog]

I'm surprised that nobody has asked you about the ignition switch in the steering column.
These usually do not fail immediately. I'ver seen the molded connectors get brittle and crack, allowing a loose connection. I recall reading that members have mentioned to check all of the connections. This means every place where a wire is connected to another wire by way of a clip, a plug or even some electrical tape.
I do this: I'll turn the key to the RUN position, then get out and trip the relay with a screwdriver. If it fires up and runs, I usually suspect a problem with the wiring under the dash somewhere.
You mentioned that the car has NOT been able to run since the "upgrades". There have been many times that I have done the same. You bump or move something while working on the car and don't even know it.

I feel vindicated....

 

[Someotherguy]

I feel vindicated....

post #43

 

[74Runneer]

Before I left to get some splice connectors I tried using the remote starter to turn the car over and it turned over for a half a second then made a bad noise. Now the dome lights and all the rest of the lights don't work. Is this the fusible link?

 

[Someotherguy]

yep, probably is, or you fried some more wiring under the dash...fix the obvious problems first mang...don't try to start it anymore until you have resolved the wiring issues...

The fusible link starts out coming off of the starter relay...that is that main hot wire i explained earlier that goes to your amp meter on the dash, and feeds that burnt wire in the column harness...

As a matter of fact, it would be wise to leave the battery connection off until you have resolved this issue, your car could burn to the ground with a wiring short like this one...

 

[Danomt]

Dead battery?

 

[74Runneer]

Its the red wire that was fried. Real bad. Is that the one that goes to the fusible link?

 

[Someotherguy]

Yes, the red wire that burnt is tied into the wire that has the fusible link...

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look at these diagrams...

this one first....

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74SatelliteRoadRunnerA.JPG

find the large black line that comes off the battery positive in the upper left hand side of the diagram....follow it down, you will see "fusible link" at one point...after that it marked as "RED"...follow it to the numbered square block that it goes into down toward the bottom..(thats the bulkhead connector )....then follow it coming out to the right....it goes up the page and makes a right off of the page....

now page 2..

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74SatelliteRoadRunnerB.JPG

see it in the upper left hand side....follow it over to the ammeter(thats the meter in your dash)....now....follow the bold black return wire...both these wires are ALWAYS HOT.....follow the black back to the previous page...as it turns and goes back down the page, you will see 3 wires that tie into it...one of them is marked "red"...thats the wire that burnt in the column harness....you can follow that wire over to the next page and see where it goes to the ignition switch

 

[74Runneer]

Okay the red wire is rewired now. Now what?

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HEY!! My lights work again!

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MY KEY TURNS OVER THE ENGINE! Now to see if I get a spark