Un-Isolated.

[SaskRunner]

I am going to replace the rubber bushings on my K member with solids. I am thinking about removing the t-bar crossmember cutting the t-bar anchors out of it. Then welding those anchors into the tran cross member. This should mimic the 72 down setup and I would use 72 and later t-bars.

Has anyone done this?

 

[Kernel Sanders]

I have measured and it's close but decided that for now I'm going to keep the longer setup and I had solid bushings fabricated for the ISO torsion cross member. I heve kept my spare anchors in case I do end up doing a larger tortion bar.... the 72 and down replacements are easier to come by and are reproduced.

Oh! the anchor fits perfectly on the existing holes too! The only real issue I see is there is not enough usable lip to hold the dust boot on.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

why not simply use solid bushings ?

Longer performance T bars are available at FF and some other manufacturers too I think

 

[Kernel Sanders]

If you want, I think I still have the specs I used to have them fabricated... relatively simple turning at the local maching shop in the material of your choice

Yeah I think FF has recently started making them. Could not find them a few years ago new

PS If its your ISO cross member that shot (bent, holes wallowed out or whatever) I do have a good spare one for $40 plus shipping

 

[YY1]

How much did it cost to get those machined?

I remember a few years ago (OK, 10-15) solid K frame bushings were about $60...now they're close to $200...

...for donut sized hunks of metal that the tooling's already paid for.

 

[SaskRunner]

I have measured and it's close but decided that for now I'm going to keep the longer setup and I had solid bushings fabricated for the ISO torsion cross member. I heve kept my spare anchors in case I do end up doing a larger tortion bar.... the 72 and down replacements are easier to come by and are reproduced.

Oh! the anchor fits perfectly on the existing holes too! The only real issue I see is there is not enough usable lip to hold the dust boot on.

View attachment 172234

So anchors out of a 72 and down might be a better bet?

why not simply use solid bushings ?

Longer performance T bars are available at FF and some other manufacturers too I think

I really don't like having the T-bar anchor in the way during trans removal.

 

[Kernel Sanders]

How much did it cost to get those machined?

I remember a few years ago (OK, 10-15) solid K frame bushings were about $60...now they're close to $200...

...for donut sized hunks of metal that the tooling's already paid for.

I think they were about 25 or 30 bucks for the four peices. Keep in mind here machine shops are few and far between here that will do one offs. Most here will only do large batches... I'm guessing because they have to program thier machines. only the smaller shops have people who know what or at least how to read a micrometer lol

And yes the solids have gone up in price and there really is no reason for it, the cost of materials hasnt goen up THAT much and as you said the tooling is done...

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So anchors out of a 72 and down might be a better bet?


I really don't like having the T-bar anchor in the way during trans removal.

I actually dont know if the anchors are different lengths in the earlier years, sorry. The ones I have showing in the pix are from my original chewed up 74 ISO cross member, I had to replace the whole thing.

I do know what you mean about the member being in the way upon removal but you can also look at it this way, it sure can help when putting the trans back in! lol

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Yeah I think FF has recently started making them. Could not find them a few years ago new

recently? I got mines maybe 6 or 7 years ago!

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How much did it cost to get those machined?

I remember a few years ago (OK, 10-15) solid K frame bushings were about $60...now they're close to $200...

eeehm, not

http://www.firmfeel.com/B3%20xmember%20mts.htm


and I bet maybe cheaper around... would have to check mancini and other vendors

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I would go poly anyway

 

[YY1]

Um...so...

http://www.firmfeel.com/bodymnts_b3.htm

 

[Kernel Sanders]

Well Nacho I guess they didnt advertise them very well when I was looking :shruggy:

 

[Ralph Cali]

So I do not like the torsion bar rear cross member either.

Thought about how to remove it - maybe cut the member out and use the shorter torsion bars and weld in the bushing but have not done anything about it.

I remove the torsion bars and the cross member when removing the tremic trany I have - makes it a much tougher removal.

Has anyone figured out a way to remove the trany without removing the torsion bar crossmember - my tremic maybe longer as well.

thanks Ralph

 

[Mywifehatesmyhobbie]

tilt the tail shaft up and slide the tranny back. lift the front and set it on the jack. install torque converter. jack the jack until desired height and raise the tail haft level with the engine before you slide the trans fwd. the process takes about 20 minutes it helps to have a second person raise the front of the trans onto the jack, but if no one is there to help it will take muscle to lift it. Yes the 71 72 are much easier. and you don't need a tranny jack to get it done in 20 minutes. just getting the tranny lined up with two jacks before the final slide is where most of my time is spent. Oh ya, make sure the flex plate is situated so the bell will clear it when sliding tails haft back into position over cross member. don't have your car a mile in the air just enough to slide the tranny under the exhaust. It's and on the ground procedure. I don't own a car lift so this is how I do it. I hope it helps.

 

[charger360]

i put solid aluminum ones on my car they are really nice and the car rides perfect, now the suspension can work as it was supposed to! car is quite tight compared to the way they floated around back in the day