Update on installing my fastfish rear mail seal

[Russmacman]

Hello all. Pulled the engine out this weekend 400 big block. Fresh build and had an excessive rear main seal leak. Pulled off the seal cap looks like it was a one piece black rubber seal, but broke apart when removing the cap. Noticed that my crank is knurled on inside journal. Outside toward the flywheel as much more smooth. It looks like the wipe / lip part of the seal was riding over the knurled side and I feel it should've been towards the back of the engine, pretty much how my new seal from fast fish explains to. It looks like there are pot marks in the aluminum , like a bags casting and also three little bumps that stick up that look like they're equal space apart. May be they hold the seal from turning on crank. Should I be worried on the condition of that seal cap. Cleaning up everything now and any advice is always welcome and here's photos of the crank. thanks much.

 

[68-500]

That wouldn’t concern me. Whats the fat fish seal? The original rope seal in my 68 dont leak. Are they still available?

 

[Russmacman]

This is a seal the has 2 lip seals. From other members this was the best one they had no trouble with. Thank you. I'm guessing that the casting was not as nice as ones today. First time doing this and don't want to mess it up. Have never seen that knurled on a crank. Really don't know what is for.

 

[Cranky]

This is a seal the has 2 lip seals. From other members this was the best one they had no trouble with. Thank you. I'm guessing that the casting was not as nice as ones today. First time doing this and don't want to mess it up. Have never seen that knurled on a crank. Really don't know what is for.

The knurl on the crank is factory for a 'rope' seal which worked pretty well. Not so well with a lip seal. It needs to be polished off for the lip seal or go back to the rope/packing seal.

 

[Lefty71]

Really don't know what is for.

As explained, when using the rope seal, that knurl pulls the oil IN as the crank spins in the normal direction, preventing leakage while allowing the oil in that area to do its job lubricating.

 

[rickseeman]

Be sure to get the area where the RTV goes good and clean. (I use lacquer thinner.) I wouldn't use the side seals. I would use RTV there also. Seal it up real good. My friend had to put a Fastfish seal in a problem child complete engine like that and it worked perfect. And he put it in backwards by mistake. I'm sure it's tough stuffing it down in there but it works. Follow the instructions.

 

[Russmacman]

Thank you for the advice. Will try to do it tonight after work. I'm cleaning up everything and hope to install it. I wish there was a nice easy way that would see the seal but understandable.

 

[Russmacman]

Hello all. Finally got the car started this weekend. So far so good with rear main seal. Everything looks nice and dry! Will keep watching a bit as I'm getting ready to finish the brakes and lower it to the ground but so far so good. started up ran fine and so happy with as well engineered seal from Fastfish Auto. The black seal I pulled out was so hard and inflexible. I think this should make a big difference thank you everyone for the advice.

 

[Tony Tee]

I love reading all these posts on fbbo.. im always discovering and learning something all the time.
So now i bought the fast fish rear main seal and a billet rear main seal retainer. And i also didn't know that the 1974-1978 rb engines have a larger thrust bearing flange. So i ordered a set as well. Being that more thrust bearing surface will better behind a manual transmission. Thanks! Everyone.

 

[Russmacman]

I'm sure it will work fine for you, Tony I just used the original big black retainer. Cleaned it up added some black RTV on the inside, groove of retainer, flat sides and anything else that would have a parting line. Filled the outside as well on the back of the block and did not touch the crank for two days. Want to make sure nothing could move around so far, so good not a drop. Of course, having to reinstall the power steering hose on the steering chunk three times for it to stop leaking at least didn't require removing the engine. lol

 

[RemCharger]

I'm sure it will work fine for you, Tony I just used the original big black retainer. Cleaned it up added some black RTV on the inside, groove of retainer, flat sides and anything else that would have a parting line. Filled the outside as well on the back of the block and did not touch the crank for two days. Want to make sure nothing could move around so far, so good not a drop. Of course, having to reinstall the power steering hose on the steering chunk three times for it to stop leaking at least didn't require removing the engine. lol

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Looks like you have some lock nuts on the rods, some ARP nuts,, interesting

 

[Tony Tee]

I'm sure it will work fine for you, Tony I just used the original big black retainer. Cleaned it up added some black RTV on the inside, groove of retainer, flat sides and anything else that would have a parting line. Filled the outside as well on the back of the block and did not touch the crank for two days. Want to make sure nothing could move around so far, so good not a drop. Of course, having to reinstall the power steering hose on the steering chunk three times for it to stop leaking at least didn't require removing the engine. lol

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Thanks! I was going to use the original retainer but it wasn't in the best shape.