Updating the Super Street Mopar

[ckessel]

Back on the thang over the last couple of days. Put some rust encapsulator on the new/old areas yesterday top and bottom. Today I scuffed up the paint on the weld areas, then seam sealed those areas. Layed down some cardboard and shot some paint on the seat mounts that are welded to the floor. From there I layed out where to cut the glass front fenders for headlamps. After that, cut the holes.

 

[ckessel]

More

 

[ckessel]

I got the headlamps mounted in. The supplied buckets and trim are beyond cheesy. The fit is horrid and the retaining ring, because of how it's done, allows the light to move. Going to suggest another route. I'm thinking 48-55 F1 Ford. Also today I put some mesh onto the passenger side of the cooling system air intakes. Double layered to help keep rocks and vermin out.

 

[icetech]

I got the headlamps mounted in. The supplied buckets and trim are beyond cheesy. The fit is horrid and the retaining ring, because of how it's done, allows the light to move. Going to suggest another route. I'm thinking 48-55 F1 Ford. Also today I put some mesh onto the passenger side of the cooling system air intakes. Double layered to help keep rocks and vermin out.

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is that seam sealer and just black brush on paint?

 

[ckessel]

Both. I put a coat of Eastwood rust encapsulator, because I had a partial pint can, on first. Then seam sealed both sides, Sikaflex black urethane, and used an acid brush dipped in mineral spirits periodically to help smooth it out. After that set up for a couple of days, put another coat of Eastwood on. Sponge brush was used.

 

[icetech]

Both. I put a coat of Eastwood rust encapsulator, because I had a partial pint can, on first. Then seam sealed both sides, Sikaflex black urethane, and used an acid brush dipped in mineral spirits periodically to help smooth it out. After that set up for a couple of days, put another coat of Eastwood on. Sponge brush was used.

Ahh! the spirits is a good idea... i wouldn't have come up with that.. smoothed it out nicely

 

[ckessel]

Someone else mentioned doing that. It works much better that way since the sealer is so sticky.

 

[ckessel]

Did some prep work for the upcoming wagon redo/upgrades. I emptied the 11" backing plates then coated them with oven cleaner as a first stage in cleaning. Currently they and some of the other drum hardware in in a Purple Power soak for more crud removal. My neighbor will blast them at his work next week. The drums and rotors got cleansed before two coats of self etch primer followed by two coats of semi gloss black. The springs got two coats of black also after hitting them with Scotchbrite. The springs had a super thin coat of black from the manufacture. I already knocked the races out of the new Chinesium rotors and installed Timkens.

 

[ckessel]

Tuesday I went into SLO to borrow the stomp shear at Ben's place to cut the aluminum for the fan shroud I'll be making. Today after taking care of some other stuff, I marked out spots for the two fans plus a smaller one in case it needs it down the road. Along with those, I marked out some areas where I plan on doing some holes with dimple dies that will allow a little air through plus give it some rigidity. And I marked out my bend lines for the flanges. I cut some holes in the material for the dimple die treatment plus give me a starting point to cut the fan holes.

 

[ckessel]

Worked on the shroud today. I cut the fan holes first before bending up the flanges in the brake. Used the nibbler I bought when I went to the SEMA show. Worked good. Once that was done I hit the 1" holes with the dimple die. I learned something there. When planning on having dimpled holes next to a flange, make sure there's enough room to get the other mandrel half in place. Otherwise it distorts the flange and causes problems like warping/bowing my flat shroud. Tuned the damage up with the hammer/dolly routine followed by a round through the shrinker. Flat now. Next go around will be to file the fan opening holes to size, drill and put in nutserts for the fans, mark where holes need to be on the lower horizontal flange so it can be bolted to the radiator, make and weld some tabs on the top flange so it will attach to the 4 studs on top of the radiator, weld up the corners.

 

[icetech]

Worked on the shroud today. I cut the fan holes first before bending up the flanges in the brake. Used the nibbler I bought when I went to the SEMA show. Worked good. Once that was done I hit the 1" holes with the dimple die. I learned something there. When planning on having dimpled holes next to a flange, make sure there's enough room to get the other mandrel half in place. Otherwise it distorts the flange and causes problems like warping/bowing my flat shroud. Tuned the damage up with the hammer/dolly routine followed by a round through the shrinker. Flat now. Next go around will be to file the fan opening holes to size, drill and put in nutserts for the fans, mark where holes need to be on the lower horizontal flange so it can be bolted to the radiator, make and weld some tabs on the top flange so it will attach to the 4 studs on top of the radiator, weld up the corners.

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Looks great, what's the tool on the drill?

 

[ckessel]

Thats the nibbler I got at SEMA. First time I used it. Got a little aggressive with it, so some aluminum got jammed between the cutter and arbor. Must take it slower next time.

 

[Kern Dog]

You are about 2 months from this thread being nine years old.

When this car finally hits the road, the following response will be appropriate....

 

[ckessel]

You got that right. Its a perfect example of life happening when you have plans.

 

[icetech]

Thats the nibbler I got at SEMA. First time I used it. Got a little aggressive with it, so some aluminum got jammed between the cutter and arbor. Must take it slower next time.

ahh.. i have a huge nibbler that i honestly never remember i have when i need it... I didn't know they made that for the drill.. very cool

 

[ckessel]

Getting close on the shroud for being done. I hit the fan opening with a file to even it out plus remove the burrs. From there, drilled the fan mount holes and put the Nutserts in. For the bottom flange, I put some 5mm J-Nuts on the radiator tabs then figured out where to drill holes in the shroud flange for the screws. Got those taken care of then made up some tabs for the top flange. Those will get welded to the shroud and get holes drilled in them to mate up to the 4 studs welded to the radiator. The tabs and the shroud corners will get welded tomorrow which will finish that up.

 

[ckessel]

Went to Bakersfield this morning to pick up my headers for the 65, now thermal coated black. Look great! After I got home and snorked down some lunch, courtesy of my awesome honey, I got the top tabs ready for mounting to the radiator. After that, gave the shroud an Acetone wipe down followed by wire brushing, with a dedicated stainless brush, on the soon to be welded areas. Got the corners and tabs welded up.

 

[icetech]

Went to Bakersfield this morning to pick up my headers for the 65, now thermal coated black. Look great! After I got home and snorked down some lunch, courtesy of my awesome honey, I got the top tabs ready for mounting to the radiator. After that, gave the shroud an Acetone wipe down followed by wire brushing, with a dedicated stainless brush, on the soon to be welded areas. Got the corners and tabs welded up.

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Those are beautiful... dougs?

 

[ckessel]

Nope, TTI's with some mods by me. TTI is the company who made these specifically for this engine. Indy low deck aluminum wedge with EZ-295 heads. Their block is wider than an iron one in the lower portion and pan rail area.

 

[icetech]

Nope, TTI's with some mods by me. TTI is the company who made these specifically for this engine. Indy low deck aluminum wedge with EZ-295 heads. Their block is wider than an iron one in the lower portion and pan rail area.

Ahh.. i didn't know you had a special motor, good looking headers