Upper control arm removal '70 B body

[Sahara]

I have a 1970 Coronet. On the upper control arms I can't get the bolts out that are closest to the firewall. They are seized in the bushings and there isn't enough room to get a good swing with a hammer. I can't be the first guy with this problem. Please help!

 

[BeeKool]

Are you good with a torch? Just enough to get part of the bolt hot.

 

[mmissile]

PB Blaster....let them sit overnight, and try to pry them from the inside of the tower.

 

[Kern Dog]

If the bolt will spin, you have a good chance of removal. In stock unmolested cars, The bolts are installed from the center OUT. This means that the heads are in a better position to place a pry bar to wedge them out. Be wary of the torch if you have already soaked them with any spray lubricant! Also, if you can get the bolts loose enough to spin, try rocking the control arm up and down like a bird flapping its wings, do this while prying on the bolt.

 

[rick68b5]

From my experiences with them a torch will be your best friend burn the arm off and find another set

 

[Shark1010]

If the bolt will spin, you have a good chance of removal. In stock unmolested cars, The bolts are installed from the center OUT. This means that the heads are in a better position to place a pry bar to wedge them out. Be wary of the torch if you have already soaked them with any spray lubricant! Also, if you can get the bolts loose enough to spin, try rocking the control arm up and down like a bird flapping its wings, do this while prying on the bolt.

Rocking on the control arm while prying after a little bit of heat! this has worked for me multiple times!

Although, it was NOT a quick process.

 

[RJRENTON]

Gentlemen,
For stubborn bolts or nuts, heat works wonders. For a small concentrated heat source, I've had good luck with a Bernzomatic torch using MAPP gas. This gas is a derivative of acetylene (methyl acetylene propo pylene) which burns considerably hotter than just propane, yet is easier to control. What you do not want is a "rose bud" heating torch....the flame is too big. And always keep a fire extinguisher handy.....just in case....
Bob Renton

 

[brian6pac]

KEEP THE FIRE AWAY FROM YOUR CAR!!!! I worked in a front end shop for many years in the 70' & early 80's NEVER PUT HEAT ON ANY FRONT END PARTS. Find a good air hammer, not a cheap muffler gun, a real hammer Chicago Pneumatic 714 or a air craft riveter 4x is the same tool. It will knock any thing apart with no damage if you use it right.

 

[rich hourigan]

these guys are correct, i just finished getting mine off my never molested 67GTX..... it made me absolutely crazy , my situation was EXACTLY like Sahara's. the bolt would spin but not move left to right , i sat on my garage floor for days with pry bars, wrenches ,PB blaster and a torch, and of course a hammer that really wasnt helping cuz like Sahara said theres no room to swing it!!! i had the UCA flapping like a bird also.. sooooo frustrating, my only advice is to be persistant and stay with it... you'll eventually get it

 

[Sahara]

Thanks for the replies, guys. Glad to hear that I'm not the only one, and that I'm not missing some painfully obvious trick.
Years ago I destroyed a generator for my Willys Jeep trying to put it back together. Later a mechanic showed me how and it was so simple I'm STILL embarrassed.