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Vapor lock ? What do you think.

dave5237

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Hi everyone. I read a lot about this subject, but wanted your input. 68 Plymouth, 440 engine. So I take my car out farther than it has ever been ( 2 miles ) and when pulled into auto zone and shut it down for 10 minutes she had a hard time starting back up. I turned it off and on in the garage with no problem. How do I know if this is vapor lock? What other problems could this be? It starts fine when cold ( runs real rough with choke on and before she is warmed up ) Any input. Thanks.
 
Under the same conditions (engine has been operating at normal temp), before going to re-start, just pull the air cleaner & pump the accel while looking into the carb. See fuel ?
 
vapor lock,

dave ,
i had a problem with my 440 vapor locking .
i ran a fresh air duck into the air cleaner worked 4 me.
just my 2 cents.
 
Install a clear fuel filter, or pressure gauge in line after the fuel pump and before the carb. Inspect after running it for a while. See air or erractic pressure and she is vaporizing.

Also inspect the fuel line route and see if it is too close to the block or headers. Shorter the route after the pump the better with avoiding heat. Also make sure your sending unit pick up is not clogged.

I had this promblem on my roadrunner and after I tore a newer gas tank out after 10 years I had a substance that looked like wood pulp clogging my pick up.

Try a higher octane also.

Hope this helps
 
You don't say what you mean by hard start. I am assuming that it cranks fine but does not start. As WileERobby has said, look into the carb to see if you get a squirt of gas when you work the throttle. Vapor lock is like fuel starvation and if it is vapor lock you may not see any fluid squirt. On the other hand maybe you have a carb that is dripping fuel into the engine when it is shut down and the engine is somewhat flooding. You make the comment about the rough running while cold and the choke is on. Maybe your choke is bad or improperly adjusted and not opening all the way. Hence when you shut the car off and let it sit a short time, the choke closes again and makes it hard to start. If the choke is closed when you check it again after the trip and short shut down. Put something in the the carb to hold the choke calve open and try to start it.

Good luck and keep us posted.
Ron
 
First time I saw a vapor return system was on my 70 sixpack RR. They used em on the sixpack and hemi cars Look in the shop manual.

Smartest thing I did on my 67 is

go with electric pump

Buy insulator gasket under carb

Install vapor return system

There are several fuel filters that makes this easy, Wix 33040/ 41, which are 5/16 and 3/8" respectivly, with a 1/4" return orifice. The filters can be mounted either horizontally or vertically, so long as the 1/4 fitting is at the top

31KUuv21WdL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
Another thing that will cause similar issues is having the heat cross over in the intake open. Back in the 80's I never had a problem with running a Torker with the cross over open but now it's a problem. The reason is the gas isn't the same. I believe it has a different vapor pressure and tends to not like carburetors anymore. Seems like trying to make carbs work well with today's gas has the same result as pushing a chain.
 
Ron of Chicago ( YES IT CRANKS BUT DOES NOT START UNLESS YOU PUMP THE PEDAL AFTER SITTING 10 MINUTES ALL READY WARMED UP )Thanks guys. I do have a vapor return line in it. Also had a phenolic spacer I took out because THE BRAND NEW 800 EDDY WAS TALLER( elec. choke ). I will check into all this. Thanks again.
 
First, so that you won't be chasing your tail, diagnose the problem. Here's how. Along every exposed section of steel line under the hood you can get to, clamp as many wooden clothespins on as you can get. This will allow the excess heat to go into the clothespins instead of the fuel. If the problem goes away after that, you know what it is.

Assuming you diagnose it as vapor lock (which is really rare, btw), here's what I'd do to fix it. Opinions vary, but this is mine. Since this is how I run a fuel system anyway, I would eliminate vapor lock to begin with. First, get a good quality electric pump. I like the Holley blue pump. Get it with the regulator.

Install the pump as close to the tank as possible. I like to get a 3/8" sending unit and replace all the line all the way to the carburetor with 3/8", but that's another arguement. 5/16" will be fine. Eliminate the mechanical pump. This will prevent the crankcase from filling with fuel should the mechanical pump diaphragm rupture.

Your plumbing should essentially like this:

FUELPLUMBING.jpg

You can see the regulator is used as the restrictor for the fuel return. This is the proper way to set up your fuel system. This assures a constant supply of clean, cool fuel to the carburetor. Except for cold starting, driveability will approcah fuel injected systems when set up in this fashion. Good luck.
 
i dont think you are getting traditional vapor locking.that happens in the fuel lines and since it wont restart when warm,but runs fine,your prob is at the carb.as said above,check for a squirt inside the carb when actuate the throttle.also check for choke positioning,should be tightly open(no floppyness in the choke plate)also,pop the cover off the air cleaner and see if it stinks of fuel.if it does then you are prob boiling the fuel in the carb when you stop for a bit.(had this prob in a 68 charger)a few cranks with the air cleaner lid off should start the car after fuel pump refills the carb.lots of insulators out there if this is your prob.and lastly,if your car runs bad with choke on,something else is wrong as well.recheck timming and carb adjustments,paying close attention to choke adjustment.
 
67 coronet is right on. Current quality of fuel also adds to the problem. Summit and Jegs both carry an aluminum heat shield with insulator gaskets that adds about 3/8" to the height of the carburetor. I just used one of these (made by Holley) on an Edelbrock carb in a friends 37 coupe. It was doing exactly the same thing. It not only insulates the carb from conducted heat but also from radiant heat, as it covers a good bit of the intake. From what you said, it doesn't sound like vapor lock.
 
Quality sure does add to the scenario. And it's piss poor at best. Specially with ethanol. It's awful what it does to the fuel system. STA-BIL has a new product out it says ETHANOL in big letters right on the label. That's what it's for, to counteract the effect of ethanol. It works good, too.
 
I had the same problem. Thought that the fuel line was way to close to the engine and it was heating up the fuel to much. Turns out the I only had about 1PSI of fuel pressure, so the vapor was not getting past and no fuel was going to the carb. Found out the push rod to the pump was never changed and was 1/4" shorter that it should be. Changed it and everything works fine now.
 
I suggest putting the phenollic spacer back in if it will fit. If the carb or fuel line gets hot engough for gasoline to boil then the gasoline vapor will push the fuel out of the carburetor.
 
I had the same problem. Thought that the fuel line was way to close to the engine and it was heating up the fuel to much. Turns out the I only had about 1PSI of fuel pressure, so the vapor was not getting past and no fuel was going to the carb. Found out the push rod to the pump was never changed and was 1/4" shorter that it should be. Changed it and everything works fine now.

I had the same thing happen about 15 years ago....used push-rod had worn down too far to actually make the pump work properly.
Also, try driving the car again for a few miles....get out and remover the fuel cap on the tank. If you hear a sucking sound, your fuel tank breather system may be blocked OR you have the wrong cap installed. I also have seen this happen, changing the cap to a vented type allows air to be drawn into the tank, eliminating a vacuum in the tank. :icon_thumright:
 
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