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Waking up the old 400

73Runner4spd

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Just looking for ideas to make my car go a little better its a matching numbers 400 4 speed with 3.55's in the back. It currently has the 284/484 cam with a set of 915 heads with 3 angle valve job. edelbrock intake, and edelbrock 1407 carb. I believe its a 750. It goes alright but it just doesnt seem to have the oomph a big block should have. I currently have manifolds on it with 2.5 inch exhaust. I know they are low compression motors but I think it should have a little more than it does. Anyone suggest switching to headers? I heard mopar made pretty good manifolds from the factory so I havnt bothered yet. Also I will be putting a set of 3.91s in it over the winter when I replace my clutch. That is anothing thing I am hoping improves the performance. Not sure if the clutch is slipping or what but it does get hung up sometimes. Thanks in advance.
 
in my opinion, if thats an 8:1 engine thats too much cam and cast manifolds compounds the problem.
 
MSD ignition can never hurt. It certainly wont boost you 50 ft/lbs, but my stock '73 400 benefited immensely from an Edelbrock manifold, Holley (iirc) 750, and MSD ignition.
 
Had a 400 in a 3/4 ton pickup with 3.55 gears and 29" tires (pretty much stock tire size), 69 383 intake from a Road Runner, very small cam but it was an RV type cam (forgot the specs), 650 DP Holley, headers and even tho it wasn't a ball of fire, a 15.40 from 5000+ lbs wasn't too shabby.
 
If that put your 5000lb truck at 15.40. You think I could get my 3700lb car into the 13s with the gears, new clutch, carb work, and headers? I dont really have high goals for running anything less than 13s as this is my cruiser not my screaming toy lol.
 
If that put your 5000lb truck at 15.40. You think I could get my 3700lb car into the 13s with the gears, new clutch, carb work, and headers? I dont really have high goals for running anything less than 13s as this is my cruiser not my screaming toy lol.

I would really look at getting rid of that Carb for more!
I had the same Carb and went back to a thermoquad and love it!
Just putting my 2 cents in!
 
You might be able to break into the 13's if you use the right combination of parts. Got my 71 340 Cuda to go 14.0 with just headers and a 4.10 gear and left the stock restrictive air cleaner on it. It was 3560 lbs. The car had the TQ that came on it. TQ's can be great if you learn how to work on them and have a good core to work with. The also produce some good economy numbers too. Mine got 17 in town with a 3.55 and I didn't exactly drive it for mileage lol. If you have a good clutch and traction, good shifter and can shift quickly, 13's shouldn't be out of the question. RPM will also play into this. Matching your shift points for the torque of the engine is important too...
 
Seriously speaking, that cam is a bit much for a low comp smog engine. (Been there done that. same engine only a '78 P code)
You should be looking at split duration cams. A look at the Comp Cam line of cams with use of the exhaust manifolds in mind, this cam comes to mind. (Note the extra amount of exhaust duration in order to help it to breath better with the manifolds.)

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=716&sb=2
 
Well, I know the post has been dead for a little while, but I picked up a set of Hooker Comp Headers. Now looking at new clutches and carbs. I know one person recommended a smaller carb, which would bother me as long as I get better performance, but I don't know why but Edelbrock just doesn't seem to do it for me for carbs. Would it be worth it to try out a holley or something else? I know the TQ has been mentioned before but would it out perform a holley? Thanks again guys
 
Is your carb out of the box or has it been setup for your car?
On my 75 440 slug I'm rumming a 268/454 Comp cam and springs w/ alum intake, Holley 750 vac sec, headman shorty headers. Rest is stock w/ 727 and 3.55 gears.
Can burn the meats through 2nd and I'm at 5000'
 
I agree with Rumblefish, too much cam for those L/C slugs and yes a split duration cam would be better.
Best way to make a 400 jump is new pistons and lighter rods.
 
Absolutely... my first thought was "compression" ... all to do everywhere else with 8:1 is not really getting anywhere.
 
hey says he has the 915 heads and are not original to the car, they are a closed chambered head compared to the 452 or the 906 heads, 915 have a chamber size of 78cc and the 906 and 452 have a chamber size of 88 cc. I would bet his compression is in the nines to 9.5. Do the headers and the gears That will wake that old 400 up. merry X mas
 
a close chambered head will only bump compression up by about .4-5 pts... his engine is a stock 8.2 to 1.. so you are looking at a8.6/8.7 to 1 CR. That is on the bottom side of performance for that cam, but it will suffice. I would ditch the eddy carb and put on a holley 750, proform 750, or find a 750 demon somewhere. that will help out incredibly if you put in the 3.91 gears. I had a 9.5 to 1 400 that had 3.91's and when i got "RID" of the eddy and put on a 850 demon it was a totally different car, 13.7 in the quarter. the carburetor was all i needed to wake the engine up, you will find your greatest gain in HP there.
 
I did a compression calculator on the 400, he should be about 8.9 with 915 heads accourding to the compression calculator and if the head was resurfaced their should be more.
 
Being the 400 is also a short stroke engine, keeping torque up through a few methods helps the engine perform better. Careful cm selection should be an exercise in small vs. the long stroke 440 even with the same c-ratio. That long stroke cures a lot of evils.

Gear ratio and maybe stall converter dependent, the cam can stay small and perform well. Use a split duration to exit the gasses better and use a small primary carb to keep air and fuel velocity up. "Air/fuel speed velocity" is key for these low comp. engines. Remember that!

On the carb, I have tried a Edelbrock 600 and a Holley 600 1850 model. While the larger primaries of these carbs, over the small primary TQ, performed better, they lacked any punch when the secondaries were opened. Performance was flat.

I choose the larger primary TQ. The bigger primary bores over the small primary TQ was much better, about equal to the other 600 carbs I tried out and retained very good mileage. 17 Hwy. in a 3800+ lbs '79 Dodge Magnum w/3.55's and 245/60/15's.

It was approx. 1+ MPG better than the squarebore carbs.

The other thing I liked about the TQ was the huge secondary side which seriously out performed the square bore carbs. It was plain to see for me which one was a better unit to use on my 400, dead stock with headers.

NOW, what I didn't like about the TQ was it was a pain to tune in since it was a early HP 440 carb. I have a few cores to steal jets and rods from to use. It took the smallest jets and rods to get it to run well. But perfect it was not. Close though.

The parts for these carbs are difficult to find. I normally bend AFB rods 3/4 inch's shorter to use. Then clip the ends off. Jets have there own thread count that differ from Holley jets, main plastic bodies are no longer made. And you can not just simply swap one out with another one unless it is identical to the worn out one/broken/cracked one.

Keep the carb cool and away from the heat with a thick gasket,not the paper thin ones. They'll survive.

OH, also, the accelerator pump cluster's are also a part you source from cores and drill out to meet the spec. What a pain.

The last thing I don't like about a TQ is the choke is in a well. When the manifold heats up, then the choke comes off. Setting it perfect is a pain. This was a source of constant annoyance for me. So I sucked it up and used a electric choke TQ that has smaller primary barrels. The performance is down a bit, but it is 100% drive-able in just a few minutes of warm up in the deepest of snows and coldest of days we have had here in past years in New York.
It would always start up even down into the single digits in winters past. Drove just fine.

I have used this electric choke TQ for the last 8 years without any problems.

Once I had this set up, I LOVED it big time. For the arena it was placed on, I would NEVER go to a square bore carb ever!!!!!!!
 
I did a compression calculator on the 400, he should be about 8.9 with 915 heads accourding to the compression calculator and if the head was resurfaced their should be more.

Yes, assuming that each combustion chamber is exactly 78cc, but the castings varied from head to head even before any machine work would have been done to them. I have had 906's that show 91cc in some chambers and 89 in others. The pair of 915's I had on my drag car were 80cc in 6 out of the 8 chambers. Hell some 915's had 76cc chambers! So, it really would be beneficial, IMO, just to err on the side of lower than higher and go from there, rather than hoping for something that may or may not be factual without testing.

Where I got my .4 to .5 point compression increase is from a good friend of mine on dodgecharger.com (firefighter / ron). he has done a lot of work with porter machine and we discussed, indepth, the CR increase with closed chambered heads and he finally concluded that the increase from open to closed chamber would be the above numbers. He is a very reliable source of mopar information.
 
Here is your mistake;
Camshaft selection.

Step down to a 272* duration, .455 lift "Purple Shaft" camshaft and you'll be fine.
If you don't currently own a Direct Connection/Mopar performance engine manual then I would recommend purchasing one. Your current part selection isn't dictating anything that needs an 110LSA, or 284* duration. You really don't need a special grind, just a milder camshaft that is designed to work with a limited performance engine with street friendly gearing and lower compression.

If you are running an electronic ignition, with a performance coil; gap your plugs 0.050-0.060.

If you are running a Mopar electronic distributor (non-factory installed), 25* of timing is set into the distributor from Mopar. Set your initial around 10-12* for a total of 35*-37* timing.

I also can agree with Race Dodge,
But I will say that any carburetor can perform well if tuned properly. The problems arise when you are placing a 238*@.050 camshaft and expecting it to run with an out of the box, vacuum secondary carburetor (especially an Edelbrock). I would recommend a 750CFM (4150) series carburetor.

3.91 Gearing would be a very large step in the right direction. 4.10 or 4.30 gearing (tire permitting) would be best. If you are running a 28" tall tire I would run a 4.30 gear.
A 26" tall tire, a 4.10 gear.
A 24" tall tire, a 3.91 gear.
 
Where does a guy get one of them mopar direct connection manuals from? I looked around a little didn't really come up with anything. Thanks
 
I agree with everyone who stated that the cam is the culprit. I you were to change only one part, that would be it. Even with the compression the 284 favors midrange-top end. That cam also wants headers and really likes 3.91 gears. Go with a more current design, split duration cam or change a bunch of other stuff.
 
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