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What carb to choose? Mostly stock 440 GTX

Ed, I was gonna send this carb out but I was doing a basic function check while whiping it down and something has happened to the secondary throttle shaft. I have two other carbs in pieces somewhere in my garage but as you know Im moving this week. If I can get something cobbled together and try it on my dart before I send it I will if not it was worth a shot.

eddiecarb3.jpgeddiecarb4.jpg

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Its also only a 650 and it was on a bone stock motor home 440 that was rebuilt and worked great in december 2013. I used the block and put the carb in the garage tucked away ( I use holleys). I dont think its worth your time its kinda funky now.
 
Well, after some eBay "adventures" with a certain shady seller and a loss of a couple weeks' time as a result, I got on the horn with a tech at Edelbrock and decided to go retail on this whole thing.
He convinced me that the 650cfm Thunder AVS would be fine on my mostly stock 440, so that's on the way from Summit, along with a TDC tool and a fresh set of RJ12YC Champions.

This is in line with advice from some of you fine folks; once I got it out of my head that I NEEDED an 800cfm carb, my gut is telling me this is the right way to go - AND I'll finally find out once and for all if my timing issues are merely a grossly inaccurate/slipped harmonic balancer.

The plugs I've pulled out of the car so far are showing RICH (black and some soot). Don't know if that's from the Holley OR from the infamous "stuck float" incident that happened a few weeks back.
(The float stuck on the Holley 750cfm on the way back from town one day, effectively drowning the engine to a halt; having no tools on-board, I took the valve cover breather and beat the front float bowl half to death until the float un-stuck itself so we could get home).

Question: Is the Mopar electronic ignition strong/hot enough to have totally cleaned up the plugs from the flooding, or am I actually still seeing the results of that incident on the plugs now, several trips later?
 
Ed , I have had rich looking plugs burn more to a tan color as long as the plug was not fouled. Also it took several miles of at temp driving to clean them up.
Been my experience though if a plug is oil or fuel fouled it just needs replaced.
Good luck with the new carb, it should work fine as long as your line pressure is around 6 to 7 lbs.
 
Ed , I have had rich looking plugs burn more to a tan color as long as the plug was not fouled. Also it took several miles of at temp driving to clean them up.
Been my experience though if a plug is oil or fuel fouled it just needs replaced.
Good luck with the new carb, it should work fine as long as your line pressure is around 6 to 7 lbs.
Yeah, out come the Autolite 85's and in will go the venerable old RJ12YC Champions.
I'll give the Autolites credit, though, they're TOUGH - tried to drill one out to make a homemade TDC tool out of it and that rascal beat me. :)

Speaking of fuel pumps, I have the Carter "hemi" pump on there right now:
http://www.manciniracing.com/cam6bisumefu.html
Wonder if it would be wise to "back down" to the more subdued stock 440 pump for the arrival of the Edelbrock?
 
Im not sure what the carter hemi pump is rated at Ed. If its not over 7lbs your good, A stock parts store pump is a crap shoot on pressure, may be 4, may be 9lbs. you got that nice carter just order a regulator & gauge. Jegs has some for pretty low prices Mr. Gasket brand If I recall.
 
Im not sure what the carter hemi pump is rated at Ed. If its not over 7lbs your good, A stock parts store pump is a crap shoot on pressure, may be 4, may be 9lbs. you got that nice carter just order a regulator & gauge. Jegs has some for pretty low prices Mr. Gasket brand If I recall.
That's why I left the link in my post, so everyone could see the specs on that fuel pump. :)
Mancini says no regulator required.
I also have the "new" stock pump that came with the engine, make/specs unknown.
 
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