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What did you learn about your Mopar today?

I have a repop tank and sender, no leaks but the sender reads 1/2 when full, I have been chicken to take it apart to adjust the float level. Figure I will end up with a leaker with a correct fuel level reading LOL, When it hits empty I can put 9 or 10 gal in or cruise for a few more miles.
Have you seen the Autometer (probably others too) programmable fuel gauges? In addition to several pre-set ranges they allow you to custom calibrate the gauge, E to F, to whatever range of ohms the sender is sending.
 
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thank you 69Runner, I was not aware of that and will ck into it.
 
I learned my dog, a yellow lab mix is scared to death of my Roadrunner because it is too loud. He rode in it once, now he won't even walk near it.
 
I learned I always have too many cars to work on.
 
I learned my dog, a yellow lab mix is scared to death of my Roadrunner because it is too loud. He rode in it once, now he won't even walk near it.
Sasha never turns down a ride. :thumbsup:
sasha2.jpg
 
I've learned a real Mopar fuel sending unit gasket is made of unobtanium.
 
Yea still no luck. I know the sender is working too since I have an ohms reading while filled...
Is yours an original sender or a repop?
I'm getting the impression a lot of our collective issues with gas gauges working or not (aside from the well-known instrument panel problems) is the way they make the repops.
The float arms on the repops are short and the pivot is way down the suction tube on them, whereas the originals had the pivot way up towards the flange of the sending unit and utilized a much longer float arm.
My (admittedly sketchy) theory on this is that the long rod on the originals gave the float more leverage on the pivot, making for more accurate readings (not to mention making it harder for the mechanism to stick).
Just a theory....
 
It is a repop, it was working until I gooped it up for sealing purposes...nothing beats the originals. I hear the spectra ones are a better repop though...
 
I learned that I didn't have rear brakes on my drum brake 69 road runner except for the emergency brake. The rubber flex hose that goes from the hard line to the splitter on the rear axle was stopped up or collapsed so tight I couldn't blow through it with 100 psi air. I have no idea of how many years it had been that way.
 
I learned that I didn't have rear brakes on my drum brake 69 road runner except for the emergency brake. The rubber flex hose that goes from the hard line to the splitter on the rear axle was stopped up or collapsed so tight I couldn't blow through it with 100 psi air. I have no idea of how many years it had been that way.
:eek: Holy crap!
 
I'm learning that every car I buy, has/needs parts more scarce than the last.
 
What I learned the former owner did wrong today:
I got the correct speedo gear from a fellow FBBO member and got under there today to swap it out for the wrong one in the tranny.
When I pulled out the old one, this is what I found:
speedo gear.jpg

Yeah, that rascal is chewed all to hell...
The FSM has specific instructions about "clocking" the adapter/housing a very specific way in order to properly pre-load the gear up in the tranny.
This is what happens when one doesn't do that.
I no doubt have tiny little pieces of green plastic floating around in the 4 speed now. Lovely.

What I learned today that's actually pretty Roadkill cool:
When you do one of these gears, quite a bit of trans lube drains out. Not having any more fresh stuff to replace it when I was done (and the lube I drained only has a couple hundred miles on it), I went to put it back in when done with the gear.
Oops.
I don't have any empty gear lube containers, either - the cool ones with the pointy spout in the cap. No worries, I'll just use my handy pumping gizmo that conveniently screws onto the threads of said lube bottles.
Oops.
Don't have any of those bottles, like I said.
Started checking around the shop and found that a large container of brake fluid has the same threads around the neck.:thumbsup:
Dump what was in said brake fluid bottle into another brake fluid bottle, dump used gear lube in, attach pump - wala.
Me done. :usflag:
 
It wasn't today, but after having bought a new gas tank and sending unit, and all the parts to swap that small rear for an 8 3/4 three weeks ago. I gotta start saying no to the wife, when she has other plans for my off hours.
 
I learned that when setting up disc brakes for the front, you don't ALWAYS have to use a proportioning valve. Evidently my rear drum brakes are in tune to the front disc conversion .............................MO
 
I learned that when setting up disc brakes for the front, you don't ALWAYS have to use a proportioning valve. Evidently my rear drum brakes are in tune to the front disc conversion .............................MO
Caution - ignorant question coming:
Don't all of these critters come with a proportioning valve, regardless of type of brakes?
Oh wait...do you mean you didn't have to swap out the factory proportioning valve for one that's for disc/drum setups?
 
Caution - ignorant question coming:
Don't all of these critters come with a proportioning valve, regardless of type of brakes?
Oh wait...do you mean you didn't have to swap out the factory proportioning valve for one that's for disc/drum setups?
 
I just used the master cylinder. Rear reservoir plumbed to the front discs and front reservoir plumbed to the rear drums. Nothing else. Brakes work great . I had heard that proportioning valves were sometimes not needed, so I tried it , thinking that I could always plumb in a P. valve if needed. I didn't want to lock up my brakes and risk flat spots on new tires. No doubt that I could lock them up..........................MO
 
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