What to expect from 1970 383 HP

[dadsbee]

The 383 in my Bee was professionally rebuilt in 1978 for 300 bucks. I put a timing chain and valve seals in it during the 2016-2019 restoration, nothing else. Starts on the 2nd crank no matter how long it sits (14 years even!), idles clean, doesn't smoke and still goes like stink.

 

[340runner]

Well, took it down and when I took heads off 4 of the valves were broke off from the stem, no sign of smacking piston, I just think time got to it and one of the lower bolt holes on one of the heads is cracked, so guess those aren't happening. Blocks still sitting in mmo trying to unlock it. Its going to machine shop, im probably going to take it to blueprint deck height and everything, and probably bore it 30 over cause I have no forged pistons otherwise. Hopefully block can take 30 over

Only thing is i dont understand is how im supposed to have any compression really, even the icon 687s are 28 thou lower compression height almost, and their 10.4 to 1 on a 80cc head, I dont know if that's good for an aluminum head, I've heard they need to have higher compression to perform well?

Now, as for why I want a 383 as opposed to a 440? I want to be able to rev freer and faster, without having to drop as much coin
Also, while nitrous works better with more cube, a 100 shot is gonna still at the end of the day add 100 horse

 

[rickseeman]

Somehow I don't think the engine "ran when pulled" like the seller told you.

 

[340runner]

Somehow I don't think the engine "ran when pulled" like the seller told you.

Hahaha I think so too....

 

[VANDAN]

340runner, could you share the Vin# off the block ? I've been looking for the original out of a project I have for years, Thanks...

 

[6PKRTSE]

Well, took it down and when I took heads off 4 of the valves were broke off from the stem, no sign of smacking piston, I just think time got to it and one of the lower bolt holes on one of the heads is cracked, so guess those aren't happening. Blocks still sitting in mmo trying to unlock it. Its going to machine shop, im probably going to take it to blueprint deck height and everything, and probably bore it 30 over cause I have no forged pistons otherwise. Hopefully block can take 30 over

Only thing is i dont understand is how im supposed to have any compression really, even the icon 687s are 28 thou lower compression height almost, and their 10.4 to 1 on a 80cc head, I dont know if that's good for an aluminum head, I've heard they need to have higher compression to perform well?

Now, as for why I want a 383 as opposed to a 440? I want to be able to rev freer and faster, without having to drop as much coin
Also, while nitrous works better with more cube, a 100 shot is gonna still at the end of the day add 100 horse

Nothing wrong with nitrous on even smaller cubes. I hit mine with 250 with a 2 stage plate. 125 on the launch and another 125 as soon as I manually want to.

 

[340runner]

340runner, could you share the Vin# off the block ?

I'll drop a post in lost and found when I get home

 

[340runner]

Nothing wrong with nitrous on even smaller cubes. I hit mine with 250 with a 2 stage plate. 125 on the launch and another 125 as soon as I manually want to.

View attachment 1856149

What's your bottom end setup? Are you on the icons, diamond pistons, or the speed pros? I also assume this is a stock stroke 383, correct?

 

[furious70]

Just for reference I turbo charged a cast piston 383 and ran 12psi just fine with OEM head gaskets. 8.5:1

 

[Budnicks]

your goal with the 383 is easily achievable too
go for it
'620#s stock factory *w/iron parts
almost 100#s lighter, *than that
about the stock weight of an iron 340, 383 with an alum intake & alum heads, tube headers

a set of closed chambered alum heads,

some thinner, closer to bore size Commetic (0.025" head gaskets)

a 292*/0.509" gvl cam & matching springs/retainers locks, wakes them up pretty well

a good set of, decent set of 1-7/8" long tube headers

a free flowing exhaust

*optional some good ductile iron Crane/MP adj. rockers 1.6:1 ratio
& Cup & ball, Smith Bros. pushrods of the proper length in 3/8"
*alum. water pump housing, & alum pulleys,
any reciprocating weight removed rev easier & faster
more power (slightly)

an Edelbrock Performer RPM B-low deck 'dual plane' Manifold, (for that Holley)
one of, if not the best street/strip intake on the market, on either wedge

383 albeit they are the weakest of the blocks, the lightest of the 'low deck' BBs
but at the level you want it's not an issue
they do like to rev a bit more than the 440 RBs in stock stroke/form
less spun bearings too 3.38" stroke, torquey lil' BBs, great rod ratios

there's a great episode on 'Engine Masters' 383 Chevy vs 383 MoPar
watch it, it will inform you

albeit
a 440 with almost 60 extra cubes
& a bigger bore & a longer stroke will have more torque
'670#s stock factory w/irons parts
many of the same parts are interchangeable too, trans/clutches bellhousing
exhaust, heads, cam, rockers & shafts, oil pans, windage trays, can all be reused if good etc.
if you want to step up to the Raised Block R/B later

the 400 is a far better block than both the others
way better main-webs, a stronger block than any 440 from the factory

go for it 383

 

[340runner]

your goal with the 383 is easily achievable too
go for it
'620#s stock factory *w/iron parts
almost 100#s lighter, *than that
about the stock weight of an iron 340, 383 with an alum intake & alum heads, tube headers

a set of closed chambered alum heads,

some thinner, closer to bore size Commetic (0.025" head gaskets)

a 292*/0.509" gvl cam & matching springs/retainers locks, wakes them up pretty well

a good set of, decent set of 1-7/8" long tube headers

a free flowing exhaust

*optional some good ductile iron Crane/MP adj. rockers 1.6:1 ratio
& Cup & ball, Smith Bros. pushrods of the proper length in 3/8"
*alum. water pump housing, & alum pulleys,
any reciprocating weight removed rev easier & faster
more power (slightly)

an Edelbrock Performer RPM B-low deck 'dual plane' Manifold, (for that Holley)
one of, if not the best street/strip intake on the market, on either wedge

383 albeit they are the weakest of the blocks, the lightest of the 'low deck' BBs
but at the level you want it's not an issue
they do like to rev a bit more than the 440 RBs in stock stroke/form
less spun bearings too 3.38" stroke, torquey lil' BBs, great rod ratios

there's a great episode on 'Engine Masters' 383 Chevy vs 383 MoPar
watch it, it will inform you

albeit
a 440 with almost 60 extra cubes
& a bigger bore & a longer stroke will have more torque
'670#s stock factory w/irons parts
many of the same parts are interchangeable too, trans/clutches bellhousing
exhaust, heads, cam, rockers & shafts, oil pans, windage trays, can all be reused if good etc.
if you want to step up to the Raised Block R/B later

the 400 is a far better bock than both the others
way better main-webs stronger block than any 440 from the factory

go for it 383

The 383 should still be i think a stronger block than what I have, being a 340 mopar.

Also, piston wise I want compression, hell im getting alum heads for a reason damn it so unless someone has a set of the NOS TRW domes im going custom. Probably 10.9 ish to 1 compression so we're going domes. Now it's just do I go with the 440 rod size? 2.0 rod stroke ratio, bigger rod to stroke than a Honda... Hell with the budget its going over why not just take my time and do it good. At least with bottom end and cam. Thinking solid flat tappet with a nice set of ductile iron rockers.

 

[Budnicks]

The 383 should still be i think a stronger block than what I have, being a 340 mopar.

Also, piston wise I want compression, hell im getting alum heads for a reason damn it so unless someone has a set of the NOS TRW domes im going custom. Probably 10.9 ish to 1 compression so we're going domes. Now it's just do I go with the 440 rod size? 2.0 rod stroke ratio, bigger rod to stroke than a Honda... Hell with the budget its going over why not just take my time and do it good. At least with bottom end and cam. Thinking solid flat tappet with a nice set of ductile iron rockers.

something with like a 1.94" compression height should get in 'near zero deck'
they are out there & on the shelves in some pistons shops/mfgrs

a stock 383, the RR or Super Bee motors 1968-70 335hp
comes with 1.92 compression height (org. cast 10.25:1 pistons) it was in reality like 9.75:1
with a 88-90cc 906 68-70 iron heads & an org. 0.020" steel shim head gaskets

most now all use the common available 0.039" compressed Perma-torque Felpro's,
with stainless bands around the combustion chamber,
they kill a lil' compression if not zero deck or out of the deck
but;
the thinner Cometics & the smaller diameter bore (nearer to the real bore dia.) in the gasket too,
that will also help compression

*with a 75cc combustion chamber that's a full compression ratio up
run a thinner multi layer Cometic gasket, like 0.025" compressed, it will get you there
with like a 4.32"- 4.35" bore in the gasket, so it doesn't rob you of more compression
you likely won't have any real detonation issues, can run 91 or 93 octane pump gas
go much over that, & you will get hot spots & run into timing or pinging issues
without always running race gas

& then have the block decked to make it there/zero deck if need be
still need the deck surfaced prepped & checks for flat & square, anyway

 

[340runner]

something with like a 1.94" compression height should get in 'near zero deck'
they are out there & on the shelves in some pistons shops/mfgrs

a stock 383, the RR or Super Bee motors 1968-70 335hp
comes with 1.92 compression height (org. cast 10.25:1 pistons) it was in reality like 9.75:1
with a 88-90cc 906 68-70 iron heads & an org. 0.020" steel shim head gaskets

most now all use the common available 0.039" compressed Perma-torque Felpro's,
with stainless bands around the combustion chamber,
they kill a lil' compression if not zero deck or out of the deck
but;
the thinner Cometics & the smaller diameter bore (nearer to the real bore dia.) in the gasket too,
that will also help compression

*with a 75cc combustion chamber that's a full compression ratio up
run a thinner multi layer Cometic gasket, like 0.025" compressed, it will get you there
with like a 4.32"- 4.35" bore in the gasket, so it doesn't rob you of more compression
you likely won't have any real detonation issues, can run 91 or 93 octane pump gas
go much over that, & you will get hot spots & run into timing or pinging issues
without always running race gas

& then have the block decked to make it there/zero deck if need be
still need the deck surfaced prepped & checks for flat & square, anyway

I thought they had a 1.932 comp height? At least that's what ive always heard. If that's the case with comp height being 1.920 yeah I can do that with the 75cc heads square up, only thing tho will my block have enough meet to square deck it? How far can I go?

 

[Budnicks]

I thought they had a 1.932 comp height? At least that's what ive always heard. If that's the case with comp height being 1.920 yeah I can do that with the 75cc heads square up, only thing tho will my block have enough meet to square deck it? How far can I go?

that's a decision by your machinist & you, will need to decide

 

[Budnicks]

I'd buy the Edelbrock RPM (closed chamber) or E-Street heads
210cc intake 300cfm (310?) @ 0.600" gross lift, for bang for the buck
yes they are a bit more like $200+, but better parts USA parts
(made in USA/cast in USA too, SoCal foundry)
it's like a +40hp bolt on over stock (a better cam even more), min.
& way lighter/weight off the front, over stock
& RPM's or E-Streets are another 20hp+ over compared to the Stealth's
in the std port configurations
Edelbrocks flow more cfm, you'd have to port the Stealths to be equal

before I bought the Chinese cast lesser flow cfm, Stealths
not a bad head, cheap
been there done that, not worth the min. savings

only thing is make sure the headers you use will clear the angle plugs
may have to do a ding here or there, I didn't, but some have
angle plug design (Edelbrock) which is a 'more superior flame travel' in the combustion chamber too
over a straight plug head (Stealth), the angle plug heads are 14mm x 3/4 too
less chance of stripping them, doing something dumb

 

[340runner]

I'd buy the Edelbrock RPM (closed chamber) or E-Street heads
210cc intake 300cfm (310?) @ 0.600" gross lift, for bang for the buck
yes they are a bit more like $200+, but better parts USA parts
(made in USA/cast in USA too, SoCal foundry)
it's like a +40hp bolt on over stock (a better cam even more), min.
& way lighter/weight off the front, over stock
& RPM's or E-Streets are another 20hp+ over compared to the Stealth's
in the std port configurations
Edelbrocks flow more cfm, you'd have to port the Stealths to be equal

before I bought the Chinese cast lesser flow cfm, Stealths
not a bad head, cheap
been there done that, not worth the min. savings

only thing is make sure the headers you use will clear the angle plugs
may have to do a ding here or there, I didn't, but some have
angle plug design (Edelbrock) which is a 'more superior flame travel' in the combustion chamber too
over a straight plug head (Stealth), the angle plug heads are 14mm x 3/4 too
less chance of stripping them, doing something dumb

Im not going with the stealths for saving money, hell I'd get the cnc version but I dont know if its too big ports or valves for a stock stroke 383, i want to go with the stealths to fool people. I dont want to look shiny and fancy, I want to win damn it

I think if I can run a mid-high 12 N/A, and then gas my way into low 11s high 10s (read custom forged pistons), and hide the kit well i think I could do well.

Not going to play with big hp cars, but I think I could fool a couple people who think their 396 chevelle or their bmw or their mustang or their camaro is the stuff, all while popping my hood

 

[Budnicks]

Im not going with the stealths for saving money, hell I'd get the cnc version but I dont know if its too big ports or valves for a stock stroke 383, i want to go with the stealths to fool people. I dont want to look shiny and fancy, I want to win damn it

I think if I can run a mid-high 12 N/A, and then gas my way into low 11s high 10s (read custom forged pistons), and hide the kit well i think I could do well.

Not going to play with big hp cars, but I think I could fool a couple people who think their 396 chevelle or their bmw or their mustang or their camaro is the stuff, all while popping my hood

Doesn't matter, buy what you want, it's your $$$
it's a waste to no have the cfm/flow, no matter the look...

worried about the wrong stuff
you should want quality & a better part

but you do you, I'm done

 

[rickseeman]

The ported Stealths wouldn't be too much for your engine. I like the Stealths too. You will enjoy either way you go.

 

[340runner]

Safe to say cylinder heads are gone, not to mention one is cracked. Have it soakin, hopefully wont take forever, not to mention i have 2 banks. Should i soak till it is flowing through over time, or whens the gauge that its ready? Also, if this dont work whats my next options?

Bearings are nice for the age though, sat in oil all this time so whaddya expect


Also, cam spins over and everything, but when I try to remove it only gives me like an inch, what should I do? Tried to pry but no luck

 

[RemCharger]

Fuel pump pushrod