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What's the best way to splice a frame?

so stay away from a straight cut?
Well, it couldn't hurt. There was no specific given whether it pertained to unibody or body on frame. Like I said it was confusing and technical. In either situation, I would use fish plates plug welded through the frame, either inside or outside.
 
Well, it couldn't hurt. There was no specific given whether it pertained to unibody or body on frame. Like I said it was confusing and technical. In either situation, I would use fish plates plug welded through the frame, either inside or outside.
I did specify in the original post that it is a 69 b-body which is a unibody car, everyone seems to have different advice and I'm not sure which one to pick anymore
 
I did specify in the original post that it is a 69 b-body which is a unibody car, everyone seems to have different advice and I'm not sure which one to pick anymore
The info I was referring to was what I got off the net, not that you didn't give any. I would stay away from the vertical butt weld. Reason told to me was that stress is directly pulling the weld apart whereas an angled cut or Z cut spreads the stress out over a greater area. Makes sense, plus add fish plates for extra security.
 
"... stress is directly pulling the weld apart..."
True when the weld is within a main load carrying member like a beam or solid frame. Not true with unibody construction. The force is spread out over all parts in a unibody because the sheet metal in and of itself is not strong enough to carry much load.
Think about the use of "frame caps" for major rust repair on Mopar unibodies. They simply bridge the weak area, spreading the force out to the solid parts.

Edit - maybe the best way to say it is do whatever you feel is right. You can't possibly make it any worse unless you don't weld it all in to the adjoining parts. You can do a lot more work than is required. but you won't make it any worse as long as all the surrounding parts are solid, and your welds are solid.
 
I did same on my 64 Polara. I made some 8 inch sections that fit on the inside of the rails, slipped half into original remaining frames then fully welded them into the original sections then slipped new rear frame sections on to the remaining of sticking out. Then welded inner brace to that new section. Lastly welded the joint on outside and ground down. Solid as hell and once pan in couldn't tell it was repaired
 
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