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Wheel replacement...broken wheel bolts

Wietse

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Hi all,

Today i wanted to remove my wheels and measure up back spacing etc. to see what new alternative wheels will fit.
My eye caught the American racing Torq Thrust TTO wheels, 15x7 front and 15x8,5 rear.
For both wheels backspacing is 3.75" (front offset 1/4" and rear offset 1")

https://www.moparshop.de/en/Online-...el-Torq-Thrust-TTO-15-x8.5-gray-3.75-BS?c=581

Currently installed wheels:

Front: 14x7 (215x70x14 tyre) with 3.5" backspacing (offset 0")
Rear: 15x8 (275x60x15 tyre) with 3.5" backspacing (offset 3/4"

Would above mentioned wheels fit properly?
I could add a 1/4"-3/8" spacer up front to get them in the same position. (also checked the back clearance and don't see any obstructions to come in 1/4" more.

Think on the rear should be ok, coming out 1/4" more then now.

This is for a '69 Coronet R/T, with 8-3/4 axle (489 housing)

Another question, for the first time removing the Left Rear wheel i broke all 5 wheel studs....
After all that, being pissed off and looking for a replacement i noticed they do L/H and R/H studs.....
Are the rear left wheels with L/H thread?? (front wheel was normal R/H thread)
According me the replacement studs have 0.625" knurl diameter with 1/2"-20 thread right?

Please advice me what is required....never suspected anything to be L/H thread..
 
Not sure on the fitment you’d have to make the measurements, I think you’re right I about the studs
 
Measuring the O.D. of the knurl area i am getting 0.665"
Got a stud out of the nut....L/H thread :BangHead:
 
You should be able to replace all studs with RH threads now and need not worry about it anymore
 
All the old Mopars came with LH threads on one side and RH threads on the other. If the front was RH and the back was LH, I'm guessing someone replaced the front ones at some point, but didn't do the back. Like BeeKool said,... replace the back with RH threaded studs and you won't have to deal with it anymore.

I believe Chrysler's intent was to help keeping the lugnut from loosening due to the direction of the tire turning. If I remember correctly, they realized it didn't make much difference and stopped doing it in the early 70's.
 
I have an old Allis-Chalmers WE.
It has LH Studs on the right side of the tractor
Also had a 63 Olds F-85 it had LH threads on the right hand side as well. Too weird
 
Thx guys,

Anyone knows the knurl diameter?
Measuring the O.D. of the knurl is 0.665", is that the right size?
 
LH thread was used on the left side only.

Tractor trailer Budd wheels used them too left side. Why? The wheel rotation tends to keep them tight.
 
I haven't measured the studs in a while, but either Dorman, Mr gasket or moroso should have them. If you want to change to mags, definitely change all left side studs. Left-hand mag lugs are almost nonexistent.
 
My eye caught the American racing Torq Thrust TTO wheels

By the way Wietse!,... Nice choice on wheels! I LOVE the TorqThrust wheels and plan to put a set on either the Charger or the Barracuda. They don't make a set for the small bolt pattern anymore, or I would already have a set on it!
 
Thx all,

Hopefully tomorrow i might get some new L/H studs to get the car going for now.
Where i found the wheel i can also get some new tires, Cooper Cobra G/T's.
Now for front i calculated i will need 215/65/15 and for the rear i will stick to 275/60/15. (Old rear rims are same size)
As my current front wheels are 14" i will need a new set up front, anyway better get 4 new and all same.
I can keep the old rears as spare, or to burn em up :)

Would there be a benefit of going 235/60/15 up front? According me not right?
 
As the tire gets wider, are the tire side walls not flexing too much when steering at speed?
Not sure what is the maximum size for a 7" wide rim.
 
Yoo Wietse,

Leuk om te zien dat je er nog zo mee bezig bent!
Now back to English. I'm running a 275/60 15 tire on a stock 15x6 steelie. It's actually too narrow but the tires that were on it had been there for 10 years and showed no signs of abnormal wear.
About the backspacing, it's measured against the outer edge of the rim whereas the width of the rim is measured in between the tire mounting flange. This means that a 14x7 wheel you need to measure from the edge of the rim to the mounting flange. If it has 0 offset than the backspacing should be somewhere around 4".

Antoon
 
He Antoon,

Yes, never ending story.
It's like a marriage, once you committed you are stuck with it :)
I have already ordered the new wheels, just needed a 1/4" (6mm) spacer for the front wheel to prevent it from sticking in too far, which would fit but looks like crap.
As per my knowledge, the wheel with is 7J, which is 7", so a offset of 3,5" is offset 0mm.
The new wheel is also 7J, but has an offset of 3,75", which will move the offset to 1/4" (6mm).
And with a spacer it will put it back where it was to begin with.
 
I understand what you mean but offset (ET-waarde) and backspacing are measured at different points.
Offset is relative to the center of the wheel bed. Backspacing is from the outer edge of the rim. Therefore a wheel with 0 offset can never be halve the width of the rim. Backspacing is always about 1 cm more.
 
I see what you mean indeed.
The edge of the rim will create a difference between them.
I did the math using the backspacing measurements from the old and new wheels so i should be ok here.
Not too worried about something sticking in a bit deeper, just don't want any fender rubbing...i hate that with a passion!
Reminds me of my times with my lowered VW Golf VR6 that rubbed against everything at every speed bump.....but never gave a **** that time...you car was so low so you were cool! :screwy:

Wisdom does come with age indeed :lol:
 
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