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Wheel size to fit wilwood 13" and 14" rotors?

cdoublejj

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Wheel size to fit wilwood 13" and 14" rotors? I Was Told, generally speaking 17s for the 13" rotors and so i might assume 18s for the 14" rotors. However this depends on the rim. So i wonder if it's possible to fit a 14" rotor on 17" rims?

I think i say all that because 17s still have room for tires with some side wall, which i assume has an effect on traction when cornering.
 
According to Wilwoods site 17" minimum wheel diameter required to clear 14" rotors and their calipers
 
I might assume there is a side wall sweet spot, where it has enough flex to conform to the asphalt or does all the flexing also cause other unwanted movements? is 18" that sweet spot? i noticed my car has combined 25-ish" in wheel and tire height without the weight of the car.
 
Less sidewall = less deflection during cornering, but at the expense of ride quality.

You're able to maintain an overall height of 25" whether you go with 17 or 18 inch rims, it's all in the sidewall height, aka aspect ratio
 
Intentions of the vehicle? All-out high-speed g-machine that will out stop a Porsche or just a cruiser with a wicked wheel/tire combo and meaty brakes behind them?

If it's a nearly 2 ton b body then my guess is more for asthetics than performance, or simply a good balance of both.

For my money, and knowing what they cost, I'd go for the 13s behind 17s and enjoy the ride quality and handling and stopping power, as anything will be better than any of the stock equipment, ie 11" brakes, 14"
 
Both, I want to make something i can cruise but, also handle some Gs. Which means concessions like stiffer ride etc etc.
 
Then go meaty and mean with the 18s, if your back can handle it of course lol

The real ticket is a fully adjustable suspension, like afco or qa1 coil overs than can be caddy-smooth or autocross-stiff depending on how you valve them, just expect serious money for either just for the shocks and springs, then there's the modifications necessary to install either, not to mention possibly swapping the leaf springs and torsion bars out for a full coil over suspension conversion front and rear which is by no means a weekend in the driveway job.

Whichever way you go, just make it your own, build it for yourself and your tastes, and enjoy the ever loving hell out of it
 
I will have a whole new front suspension with double adjustable coil overs and rack pinion power steering, as well as chassis stiffening kit, i'm just trying to figure out if i will shoot my self in the foot for getting the 14" wilwoods over the 13" if I set price aside. However there is a much cheaper option that is 13" 6 piston but, it's either 1 piece rotor or a 1 piece rotor/hub like the stock rotors, in which case the 14" would be the way to go.

I was looking at something that could do some cruising and some daily driving and also do the okay at something like the silver state classic.

What's really awesome is all the info i'v read is really consistent with what you guys are saying, ie more matching claims and test data. :thumbsup:

http://www.caranddriver.com/features/effects-of-upsized-wheels-and-tires-tested

I suppose the question now is if i can find a set of wheels like in 18s. I see they make 17s of the old ralley style wheels.

I am curious if the 1" gain from 13" to 14" is null form the 1" gain from 17" to 18"? Though maybe that wouldn't matter if out tire size stays the same?

On top of all that it's nice to have folks like you willing to share info like this, I appreciate that. It's not always easy to get info on making a 5000lbs 70s muscle car handle corners with out people thinking I'm a moron or brain damaged.


EDIT: found some info on 1pc vs 2pc rotors,
 
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