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Which carb for my set up?

Myasylum

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Hello, I have a 400 engine. RPM Intake (Summit actually had it in stock!) 3.54 gears, and headers.
Other than that, it's stock.
I'll probably be getting a small cam in the future, it runs pretty darn good. However it's pretty poky.

I have read Holly 3310, and a Demon 750.

I would like electric choke as well... unless that's not a good route?

What others would be good? (Don't mean to start a carb war).

Definitely want this streetable... but sure would like to show it isn't a total pooch from time to time either.

Thanks!
 
No, that's pretty much a carb war.:popcorn:
 
But if you want to win the race, Holley.
 
That Holly doesn't seem to have an electronic choke?
 
I don't make carb decisions based on chokes.
But I'm old school.
If you want chokes, can go with quick fuel.
 
800 seems kind of big doesn't it? Can't find it in stock either.
 
We did many, many performance upgrades in the garage back in the day. When it came to carbs, the 3310 proved to be a very good and reliable performer, in many different engines. You can add an electric choke if you like. When the thermo-quad came along, it proved to be an excellent street carb.
 
Hello, I have a 400 engine. RPM Intake (Summit actually had it in stock!) 3.54 gears, and headers.
Other than that, it's stock.
I'll probably be getting a small cam in the future, it runs pretty darn good. However it's pretty poky.

I have read Holly 3310, and a Demon 750.

I would like electric choke as well... unless that's not a good route?

What others would be good? (Don't mean to start a carb war).

Definitely want this streetable... but sure would like to show it isn't a total pooch from time to time either.

Thanks!
There is nothing wrong with an electric choke. Some idiots think NOT getting an electric choke gains them HP. For an everyday driver that see’s 4 seasons, it’s worth it unless you like to moderate your carb with a cable in the cold and open it up when the engine gets warm. Why bother?!?!

What ever style carb or maker your OK to work on is what you should use. I can’t find a single item that makes any one carb crappy. Each have a pro and con to them.

If I said that Holley’s are my least favorite, that may sway you.
Well it’s true, I’m not a big fan of a Holley on a daily driver and find the Edelbrock super dependable and easy to tune.

BUT DONT WORRY!!!!! Somebody will be here very shortly to complain about there Edelbrock carb and how flipping bad it was that the ripped it off there engine, slammed it on the ground, stomped on it, drop there draws and crapped on it, boxed it back up and set it to Edelbrock with a nasty note on how bad they suck.

Same for every other carb ever made as well!

Bottom line, start learning how to tune your carb yourself.
Also, in testing various AFB, AVS, Edelbrock’s and various Holley’s, if the engine is mild, like yours or maybe even with a small cam, there’s ZERO power difference that you’ll feel or see on the street and you’ll be hard pressed at the track to find a difference.

I find the claims like above if you want to win the race get a Holley totally rubbish at the maximum and even worse than that when a driver street car is on hand.

But hey! If you want the Holley, go get ya one!
IDGAF, as long as you enjoy the car and I burns well, how cares!
 
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Considering the intended cam upgrade & current specs, Edel 800 AVS or Edel 750 AFB.

Either would win the race...

Not too big. Mopar used the 850 TQ on stock 360s.
 
The holley 3310 is a 750cfm carb . I have one on my 440 . It came with a manual choke but I have modified the carb quite a bit and the choke horn and linkage is removed .
Almost positive they were offered with an electronic choke .
 
Yes they were.

If I’m doing a “New” carb rod use it’ll have annular boosters.
 
I love annulars. A little better fuel atomization at lower rpm’s for better throttle response, albeit a little less total cam. For a mild street engine, Edelbrock is probably better, you can fine tune it for every situation. Other than the Holley dominator, I believe BG stepped up with the demon with a superior smooth carb top. Now Holley and everyone has copied that. Also Demon still indicates what camshaft duration their models work with. I’ve seen no one else do that. Unless you know what air bleeds, emulsifier tubes etc you need for a Holley, it’s a crap shoot. I’m not a true carb tuner, changing all the aforementioned internals and whatnot, but the Demon specs have proven accurate for me. Of course with every engine change comes an ignition advance modification.
 
Well said. An annular carb is still rated at its total CFM. If it is possible to swap boosters, annular out, straight booster in, you would pick up CFM.
 
Definitely get a Edelbrock. My RR came with an AVS. I could punch it from a standstill, and it lit both tires, great throttle response, and it revved very well. It was bone stock with CI manifolds at all three sides. I believe Edelbrock sells AFB and AVS models. I like the AVS more because your not moving a weight to unblock the plate, but a vacuum to allow the plate to open. They used to sell an amazing tune kit with jets, rods and springs, making that carb very tunable. Good luck, and keep us posted, all info is good info!
 
Either carb is OK, just need to tune them. Same for the ignition advance curve.
 
I like the AVS more because your not moving a weight to unblock the plate, but a vacuum to allow the plate to open. They used to sell an amazing tune kit with jets, rods and springs, making that carb very tunable.
Edelbrock still sells the kits to tune the carb.

On the secondaries, on the AFB carb, your not moving a weight to a unblock a plate. And it’s not vacuum to open the plate ether.

The counter weight on the AFB door is to the side and unblocks nothing. The velocity of air from the mechanically opened secondary butterflies allows the air above it to move past the weighted air door, which is not sealed, to provide air pushing against it, opening it. Your confusing the operation with a Holley.

Carter has written about this. No Carter carb is a vacuum operated secondary carb.
 
Edelbrock still sells the kits to tune the carb.

On the secondaries, on the AFB carb, your not moving a weight to a unblock a plate. And it’s not vacuum to open the plate ether.

The counter weight on the AFB door is to the side and unblocks nothing. The velocity of air from the mechanically opened secondary butterflies allows the air above it to move past the weighted air door, which is not sealed, to provide air pushing against it, opening it. Your confusing the operation with a Holley.

Carter has written about this. No Carter carb is a vacuum operated secondary carb.
Yes, you are right, thanks for correcting me! I still have my old AVS, just looked at it. It’s a spring loaded door. I misspoke about it being a vacuum secondary carb.

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