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Which Electric Fuel pump and where to locate it - street driven only

67convertible

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All,
Thank you for your advice and HELP!!

I have seen several threads but not a recent one on electric fuel pumps and where to mount one on a 1967 Coronet 440. Here are some specifics:
  • I have replaced the gas tank, float (3/8" outlet) , fuel line (stainless, 3/8"), fuel pump ( 3 times (now have a new edelbrock - 6 psi), filter, 3/8" rubber hose connections.
  • Engine is a 508 cu in. , 493 HP with 612 Ft.Lb of torque
  • Long tube TTI headers
  • Quickfuel SS 780 vacuum secondaries
  • Automatic 727
  • 60 AMP alternator
  • dual exhaust 2.5" all the way out back
  • Edelbrock fuel pump.. no regulator required.. 6psi.
  • Idles and runs at 180 degrees at 70 MPH (for 3 miles).
Now, why an electric fuel pump, three mechanical carter, holley and edelbrock could not keep up with the fuel flow at idle and after 3 miles driving, engine quits. (yes, like vapor lock). I wrapped the fuel lines because it is close to the passenger side (headers and tail pipe over the axle).

Recommendations please...
1. Do i mount on the back of the brace where the shocks mount? Pump even with the sending unit. or on a "frame" rail?
2. Plus, which external pump and or regulator?

This Coronet is only street/hwy driven, grocery getter!

thx!
 
Keep it as close as possible to the tank. I prefer frame rails as its easier to isolate from the noise transfer.
I like Aeromotive pumps personally but the are pricey.
 
Electric pumps are push not pull so as low and as close to tank as possible but protected from heat and road garbage
 
I run a holley hp 150 on both my cars. One on the dart is 10 years old now and still working. I did have trouble with the first one I put on the runner last year and had to send it back. 2nd one is working good.
 
There is no reason why any of those mechanical pumps shouldn't work fine. Have you removed the fuel pump pushrod and measured it's length? Have you inspected the new fuel tubing for crimps/dents? Did you use use the new rubber hose that isn't affected by fuel with alcohol content ( old type hose can allow air to be sucked in without external leaking). IMO, 3 miles is not near enough driving to have a vapor lock problem unless your heat shielding isn't doing the job and the tubing is awfully close to the exhaust. When the car quits have you removed the air cleaner and worked the throttle to insure it's a fuel delivery problem? Have you Googled "How to test for fuel pump volume" and done the test?
Just some thoughts to try and get you going. On a street car, electric pumps always drove me nuts with the noise.
Good luck.
 
Check the diagnosis. Electric pumps can be unreliable and noisy for street. Ran a 150 gph Edelbrock Street. First one lasted 6 years, second one 60 miles. Hi-Po mechanical pump Mopar pump works fine for my 440.
 
I agree with colorado and Dennis H, if it can't even keep up with the car at idle, there's something else going on. But, if your hellbent on an electric fuel pump, at least look for one that advertises "continuous duty". In-tanks are probably considered continuous duty but I've never used one so I don't know. Most external pumps are really built for short term use like racing. They get hot, they are noisy, and at the risk of all the guys that are going to bash me because they have had their electric pumps last forever, they don't last long.
 
I agree with colorado and Dennis H, if it can't even keep up with the car at idle, there's something else going on. But, if your hellbent on an electric fuel pump, at least look for one that advertises "continuous duty". In-tanks are probably considered continuous duty but I've never used one so I don't know. Most external pumps are really built for short term use like racing. They get hot, they are noisy, and at the risk of all the guys that are going to bash me because they have had their electric pumps last forever, they don't last long.
Something is wrong, no doubt. I have never had an elec. pump quit me. I`m 70 and on my 5th hot muscle hotrod. All had elec. pumps. Mounted behind the tank, w/ 1/2" dual filters(for volume) coming out the back of the tank. That is very easy if you stop and think about it, especially if your installing a new tank that's never had gas in it.
 
thanks to everyone that have replied! Reading all the responses i have to agree, i have something wrong somewhere (grr). I will finish installing all the new 3/8" fuel components (tank to carb inlet) and will wrap the stainless steel fuel line this week. I will try the edelbrock mechanical fuel pump (new) and see what happens. I will post results once i have the coronet running again.

I thought it was vapor lock, but when the engine is hot, i can hold my fingers on the fuel lines. Fuel lines are about 4-5 inches away from the headers, closer where the pipe goes over the axle, but they were wrapped.

I have not tried the volume test, but I will.
 
i did measure the fuel pump push rod. measures 3.160" .. so 0.06" short of the 3.220".

Does this make a major difference for the pump stroke?
thx
 
How do the ends look? How is the cam eccentric? Testing it is a be careful moment, finger tip in the engine could cause problems and hurt. Probably a better way than sticking your finger in there.
 
the cam end is smooth, no dishing, the pump end has a little coloration (dark) but no visual dishing. Cam is brand new and i called Comp to make sure it was built with the fuel push rod lobe. I am waiting for a Hughes fuel pushrod to arrive (Thursday). thx
 
I have to agree in that there is no reason that any mechanical pump should not be able to keep up with demand at idle.

As for vapor lock, let me simply pass along my experience and you can take from it what you will.
When I bought my '69 Road Runner (Dec. 2014) it had a 190 thermostat (factory spec). It would run about 200 on the road and in a long traffic jam (2015 Hot Rod Power Tour, Madison Wisc.) it got to 230. When I would shut down I could always hear the fuel percolating. All that said, it never vapor locked on me.
I'm happy to say that I have cured that problem and never experience any of the above anymore.
 
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thanks Ranger16.. i am hoping i can get to that point.. running slowly and not gasping for fuel :). I should have it back together by Friday evening late.
 
thank you for the thread.. i have not ruled out the external pump. i am just a little hard headed (err wife says so, so must be) and will try the mechanical one more time. If any problems, i will install an electrical pump and be done. I hope!
 
Are you using a vented gas cap? If it's a non-vented cap could it cause a problem? Gas going out no air coming in to replace the gas with a non-vented cap?
I put a Carter Electric pump on my 66 satellite. Brazed a bracket to the passenger side of the front of the gas tank. It went top to bottom with a couple of 90 degree bends top and bottom to reach the tank. welded a couple of studs to mount the pump. there was just enough room between axle tube and tank. You have a new tank this may not be for you.
 
it has been so long ago on the gas cap, i will go take a look. i did remove it when the engine was idling but there was no difference. thanks for the idea!

If the mechanical pump with all the new updates (tank to carb).. does not work, i will press with an electric fuel pump. i will not weld on my new tank but look at building a mounting system in front or behind the tank.
 
You may want to pull the sending unit and see if the pick up is clogged...
 
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