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Windshield installation 1966-70 B body

That is interesting. Cheap is right up my alley!
 
My solution fresh air vent rodent and leaf problem.
I took the vent box off.
Downsized the vacuum hose diameter, by taping a smaller hose to the regular end. Got down to about 3/8ths, think I used gas line hose.
Then I could get my hand in and vacuum around the lip and things.
Also made sure the outside cowl drain holes were clear.
Then as pictured I made a metal screen dome shaped so the vent flapper would function correctly. NO MICE, NO leaves.
To clean in the future, take the grille off use an air hose and blow the leaves back up into the cowl area.

IMG_1273.jpeg
 
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as i installed classic air system i sealed off the opens on the driver and passenger side on the inside and closed off the cowl so no opening to the inside from the cowl.
 
Guys tell me where to put sealant based on your best estimate
I laid glass bedding compound in the lower cowl channel, up the a pillar sides. And I added some in the gasket where the windshield sits. I did have extra ooze out so it needed a cleanup. But it is leak free. I did it myself without any help.
 
I used a combination of tapering down a vacuum cleaner hose to about 3/4” id non collapsible hose and tape. Took the vent box off also. Worked very well.
As mentioned before, I built a domed fine mesh screen on top of the vent box, still allows the door to open and close. keeps mice and leaves out. Can always blow the leaves back out the top.
Make sure the drain slots by the fender are clear.
Relating my experience.
I did the same with the hose on the shop vacuum. On my GTX the fresh air cutout in the cowl needed replaced. A fabbed one was welded in and as a sealer, I poured Silverbullet around the base of it. Stuff will stick to anything.
 
Kern Dog if you can tell us the manner he used the linseed oil did he wipe it as he went or did he brush it in the glass channel as we would glass cleaner ?
 
Kern Dog if you can tell us the manner he used the linseed oil did he wipe it as he went or did he brush it in the glass channel as we would glass cleaner ?

He used something like a mustard bottle similar to this:

IMG_1011.jpeg


He just squirted it in and set the glass in the bottom. He went from the bottom UP like I have done.
 
When I had the gasket installed with fresh glass from AMD on my 68 Satellite, the shop that did it said they sometimes use a hair dryer heat gun at the final 2 corners to assist final fit. Anyone else use this in addition to the lubricant (linseed oil, detergent)?
They also mentioned that some repro gaskets fit tighter than others.
 
thank you Kern i wanted to be sure . i have done this 3 - 4 times for these style cars so this will be hard as always but the linseed oil will be better as you and others have said hear lube is your friend so the linseed oil and take your time i will get it done.
Back in the 70s - 80s when working at the JD dealer we used to replace combine and tractor cab windows every so often. They used the same kind of seal. The combine glass was probably 3x5 flat safety glass which went in pretty easy, but the tractor cab glass was 3x2 curved with probably a 36" radius. Those took lots of beating and wood and plastic sticks for prying, but the biggest help was using hand cleaner for lubricant. It would wipe up easy and wash right off if needed and would eventually just dry up so it worked really well.

He used something like a mustard bottle similar to this:

View attachment 1863608

He just squirted it in and set the glass in the bottom. He went from the bottom UP like I have done.

When I had the gasket installed with fresh glass from AMD on my 68 Satellite, the shop that did it said they sometimes use a hair dryer heat gun at the final 2 corners to assist final fit. Anyone else use this in addition to the lubricant (linseed oil, detergent)?
They also mentioned that some repro gaskets fit tighter than others.
 
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