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Runnin Hot

Finallygotmine

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What radiator set up is supposed to be in a 69 Roadrunner, 383 4 speed no air? I have a 22 inch core with no shroud and a fan that is about 18 inches diameter.
Second question, With the engine hot, should you be able to see the fluid circulating inside the radiator?
 
My 67 has a 26"..You really need a shroud...That would help alot..Yes you cann see the the fluid move...
Petty Blue 67
 
Both my 69 Road Runners have 22". I have shrouds on them and have never had any overheating issues.
 
My 69 RR has the smaller rad but my 68 has the 26" because it is a factory perf axle package car. You should be fine with the 22". Is the engine new? My 66 Bel ran a bit warm with a 26" when I first got it running.
 
My 69 RR has the smaller rad but my 68 has the 26" because it is a factory perf axle package car. You should be fine with the 22". Is the engine new? My 66 Bel ran a bit warm with a 26" when I first got it running.

No it's not new. I did find a shroud on ebay for a 22 inch rad. Hopefully it will help. tried to change the thermostat and twisted off one of the bolts. Fun stuff I tell you. lol
 
22" Radiator

It would make a difference if your 22" radiator is a 2,3, or 4 row version. The two row can be over powered by a big block.
 
Use either a 7 blade solid or a clutch type that will help also! The 7" was the stock fan.
 
Well, I did some work and got the bolt out that I busted off, and looky what I found. I'm guessing that the radiator is totally clogged up inside. Can they be cleared out or do I need a new one?
Stupid question: How do you know how many core radiator you have? Do you measure the thickness?
Thanks for all your guys' input.

Daryn
 

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I got it, it's a 4 core that had been re-cored already. I took it to a shop so they could do some serious flushing on it. Hopefully with the shroud and the clean-out, It should work properly.
 
My god Daryn......Looks like something that was salvaged off the Titanic.

I'm sure that will make one heck of a difference getting that garbage out of your radiator
 
Yeah, it was pretty bad. came off in 1/4 inch thick chunks. I took the radiator out and brought it to a rad shop so they could do a pressure flush on it. Had it over the weekend, went back to pick it up and they never looked at it. That did it, I took it home and flushed it myself with a garden hose. Filled it part way, picked it up and did the big shake with it several times until the water came out clean. I decided that I'm tired of waiting for other peoples schedules and decided to pick up some tools and do more of the work myself.
I am mechanically inclined, I just stopped collecting auto type tools in my early 20's. So I really didn't have a lot of the correct tools. The guy at the auto parts place must have loved me. I dropped $500 in 20 minutes picking up some basics.
The car is cooling now and I do have a fan shroud coming, so that should be the final piece of that puzzle.
 
just to add a thought. I too had the same problem, however I had rust in the block too that kept stopping up the holes in the top of the radiator core. Used a flexible magnet to fish out. Flused block as well as I could and bought a GANO coolant filter and put on top hose to trap before getting into radiator.. Caught a lot of debris... finally last Feb. needed to replace headers.. oportunity to pop freeze plugs and use a brush especially on the back two plugs.. flushed 5 times through thermostate housing, blew air through it. Caught the water with a kiddie pool under car so I could see the debris.. about a cup... Works fine now. took the Gano filter off last week.. just a few specs of debris..
 
Anybody got a comment of aluminum radiators-have a 26" 3 row that even cleaned is runnin 210 on a 440 pushin 500 ponies. whats best a 2 row with 1" cores or a 3 row with 5/8' cores?
 
whats the opinion on radiators for a 440 pushin over 500 hp? 2-3 or 4 row aluminum?
 
Ya know, I'm kinda getting tired of cooling problems. Problem is, you cant trust the fixes! Aftermarket water pumps have different impellers, aftermarket T-stats dont flow as well as factory [or the old Stant stuff we trusted] . I've been rebuilding 2.7 Chrysler motors lately, and most of the bad ones have an aftermarket t-stat that is noticeably lighter, and 3/4 of an inch shorter than factory. Hence I guess less flow. I have a feeling that people are trusting parts that cant be trusted anymore. I feel that the aftermarket pumps dont pump! Just my opinion, but I feel cheepness is creeping into the mainstream
 
Ya know, I'm kinda getting tired of cooling problems. Problem is, you cant trust the fixes! Aftermarket water pumps have different impellers, aftermarket T-stats dont flow as well as factory [or the old Stant stuff we trusted] . I've been rebuilding 2.7 Chrysler motors lately, and most of the bad ones have an aftermarket t-stat that is noticeably lighter, and 3/4 of an inch shorter than factory. Hence I guess less flow. I have a feeling that people are trusting parts that cant be trusted anymore. I feel that the aftermarket pumps dont pump! Just my opinion, but I feel cheepness is creeping into the mainstream

I hear you. The replacement Tstat I put in felt pretty cheaply made. It seems to be working but it is in my mind most of the time as I guess only time will give me confidence that it's doing it's job.
 
whats the opinion on radiators for a 440 pushin over 500 hp? 2-3 or 4 row aluminum?

I'm not sure what to tell you as I'm no expert. There are a few excellent threads on the subject though with quite a wide variety of opinions and solutions. Maybe find those and read through them. You didn't say what your fan situation is or if you have a shroud. I know that is pretty important.
 
buy a Robert Shaw brand Thermostat from Jegs or Summit.
if you have a fan clutch, buy the right one from Hayden.
Flowkooler makes a water pump with an anti-cavitation plate and larger impeller (blades that move the antifreeze). YOu can buy them from summit or direct from brassworks.com
HTH
Bob
 
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