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Hemi Swap Price Tag?

I am not sure what you meant by:



But its not entirely that hard to calculate engine RPM if you know rear end ratio, tire size and transmission ratio. I made a spreadsheet that can do it for me.

I meant, I want to figure out if I can calculate what ratios I need in order to make sure that I have 50mph in the gear once the turbo spools. Does that make sense?
 
yeah that makes more sense. What RPM are you figuring you will be up in boost? once you pick that number and know your red line its just a matter of figuring between those two numbers what ratio will provide you with 50 mph


I don't think that should be too difficult though it does involve algebra...good thing i am an engineer..:jerk:
 
actually here should be what I need to get close:
Tire Size
Trans gear ratio
Rev you think you have boost
Redline rpm


I can give you a rear end ratio to give you a 50 mph jump (if possible)

Otherwise give me a rear end ratio and I can give you an idea of what the trans gear ratio would have to be.
 
Do any of you guys know if anybody has used a 2003 engine and computer for a swap? I emailed hotwireauto.com and they weren't sure they could tune the 03 computer.

I would be fine running the engine with the factory computer and tune but I don't plan to run Cat's and don't want the check engine light on constantly. (yes I plan to wire in the check engine light).

I have the potential to pick up a 03 hemi from a truck with harness and computer for $800 with 60k on it...problem is I don't know whether or not I can use the computer and harness.

Also anybody know what wires/pins are needed for the computer? It seems I could strip the harness apart and make my own to save $950 but does anybody have the info?
 
Look at my thread, late model hemi into early b bodys. I used the 03 eng/trans and computers.....runs like a scalded cat on a hot tin roof. You wont need cats, and you only use 1 o2 sensor. Check it out, I may have answers to your questions.
 
Look at my thread, late model hemi into early b bodys. I used the 03 eng/trans and computers.....runs like a scalded cat on a hot tin roof. You wont need cats, and you only use 1 o2 sensor. Check it out, I may have answers to your questions.

Ironically enough while you were typing that I was going through your posts. Incredible job on the car. I only hope mine comes out that well as I work through all this. The main difference for me is I plan to go 4 or 5 speed stick route with this so I have to get the computer tuned to not look for the transmission (unless i find a computer for a manual trans).

If this guy gets back to me I may try to go pick up that 5.7 this weekend seeing as the price is pretty good. All else fails i have spare parts for my truck..:3gears:

:HappyNewYear:
 
Thanks for the compliment on my car, now to the good stuff.
Look on ebay for an 05 computer, and have the auto trans deleted and some other junk you wont be using and your golden.
 
If you do the 5.7 and need a rear sump truck oil pan let me know. I have a brand new one. Turns out, the truck oil pan is too deep at the front if you are using an Alterktion. It won't fit between the steering rack and the bottom of the block. Also, I spoke with one of (or THE) engineer at TTI and he told me the 5.7 in a B body is a configuration he simply CAN NOT make a set of headers work for. Can't get the bend to clear the starter motor correct!
I stayed with tyhe stock exhaust manifold and used 2 1/2" exhaust pipe.
I really don't see the gain vs effort here anyway when you look at how short the stock manifold is, there isn't really much room to increase flow anyway.
 
If you do the 5.7 and need a rear sump truck oil pan let me know. I have a brand new one. Turns out, the truck oil pan is too deep at the front if you are using an Alterktion. It won't fit between the steering rack and the bottom of the block. Also, I spoke with one of (or THE) engineer at TTI and he told me the 5.7 in a B body is a configuration he simply CAN NOT make a set of headers work for. Can't get the bend to clear the starter motor correct!
I stayed with tyhe stock exhaust manifold and used 2 1/2" exhaust pipe.
I really don't see the gain vs effort here anyway when you look at how short the stock manifold is, there isn't really much room to increase flow anyway.

I'll keep you in mind if i need the pan, it won't be til late spring early summer til the engine gets in the car. Though i am going next Saturday to pick up my hemi. :hello2:
 
If you do the 5.7 and need a rear sump truck oil pan let me know. I have a brand new one. Turns out, the truck oil pan is too deep at the front if you are using an Alterktion. It won't fit between the steering rack and the bottom of the block. Also, I spoke with one of (or THE) engineer at TTI and he told me the 5.7 in a B body is a configuration he simply CAN NOT make a set of headers work for. Can't get the bend to clear the starter motor correct!
I stayed with tyhe stock exhaust manifold and used 2 1/2" exhaust pipe.
I really don't see the gain vs effort here anyway when you look at how short the stock manifold is, there isn't really much room to increase flow anyway.



uhhhhh..6.1 manifolds and headers bolt on and work on a 5.7 head..
i have installed 6.1 tti headers on a 5.7 headed 426 short block in a 68 b body. two places we had to "dimple" the tubes. the point where the header comes close to the drivers side motor mount area and then one area where there was a issue with it being "close" to the stud for the stock solenoid on the starter.

the motor will pick up almost 100 ft pounds of torque by switching, depending on related mods. a stock 5.7 manny "sucks".....no other words for it bro.

i cant believe tti told you that.

got any more question talk to the real world people doing the installs.
you might be suprised. also. the "mopar" 4 barrel intake systems are horrible. the ones that comes with those crate motors and used in all the "swap" kits.

i have dynod brand new crate motors in e bodies for people that only pull 250-260 rwhp. and there rated at what?



steve

steve
 
iraqivet01 said:
Here's a step by step from a place not far from my where I live. I consulted them about doing my wiring harness and remapping my computer.

What did they quote you for the whole package?

With my budget on this I'd like to be under $500 for the tuning and harness which is why I will likely be working on making the harness myself.

Has anybody on here made their own harness out of the stocker? Any tips, diagrams etc? I want to keep the check engine light and some of the dummy lights for warning me of issues. Other then that I don't need any transmission control or emissions stuff and will have that tuned out.
 
Do any of you guys know if anybody has used a 2003 engine and computer for a swap? I emailed hotwireauto.com and they weren't sure they could tune the 03 computer.

I would be fine running the engine with the factory computer and tune but I don't plan to run Cat's and don't want the check engine light on constantly. (yes I plan to wire in the check engine light).

I have the potential to pick up a 03 hemi from a truck with harness and computer for $800 with 60k on it...problem is I don't know whether or not I can use the computer and harness.

Also anybody know what wires/pins are needed for the computer? It seems I could strip the harness apart and make my own to save $950 but does anybody have the info?
I contemplated this swap and the only thing that made sense to me was to go to an aftermarket stand alone controller. I figured my times worth something and trying to make a factory computer and harness work was setting up for disappointment after investing a bunch of hours. So I investigated them and found out they are 3K but plug and play, so I figured going to the Holley Dominator injection was a better option and the same money since It wouldn't stay stock for long.
 
03 dodge trucks have little to no computer support. my advice is to stick with a 2004 and newer computer.

plus the 2003 model year was the forst year for the 5.7 there has been a issue with valve spring breakage with them. for the 04 year and up they changed the spring.

be warned
 
yeah a stand alone system would be fantastic but $3k is out of the question, thats more then I paid for the car and engine combined so its just not in the budget.

I have a 04 computer and an 03 harness so either way I have to buy something to make the combo work.

Thanks for the heads up on the valve springs. I may have to change them before putting the engine in.
 
3k stand alone?
dang...my price on a fast is 1250

04 computers have cmr capabilities. thats with the diablo handhelds...

steve
 
3k stand alone?
dang...my price on a fast is 1250

04 computers have cmr capabilities. thats with the diablo handhelds...

steve

Do you get a discount or something? At that price I wouldnt mind running a fast system but that probably doesn't include the spark controller does it?
 
I haven't updated this thread in a while so here goes.

so far for my actual costs:

03 5.7 with 60k and 04 computer/partial 03 harness- $600
01 NV3500 5 speed manual trans - $440
Ram 2500 flywheel (53022042AA) - $85


Up next on the list to buy:
Stock Ram 2500 clutch - $150?
Dodge Dakota Slave and clutch master $80
Exhaust Manifolds - Jeep 5.7...$?
Stock 04 wiring harness - $150 (maybe pending)
Computer tuning - $250 (hotwireauto.com or hotrodlane.cc)


Still to figure out:
Radiator, Fuel system (plan is to use a stock Dakota/Durango in tank pump and modify my tank and use a corvette filter/regulator) ($70) total + lines fittings, Hoses, Serpentine System (making my own adapters), Motor mounts (making my own), Trans mount (making my own).

So stay tuned, I have a build thread in the restorations section under 67 Coronet Deluxe.
 
cheapest you'll ever do a Hemi swap for is grabbing a Complete running donor truck rather then parting one together. I've seen donors go for as little as 1800 bucks locally.
 
cheapest you'll ever do a Hemi swap for is grabbing a Complete running donor truck rather then parting one together. I've seen donors go for as little as 1800 bucks locally.

Around here thats an impossible number. Typically a junk block goes for 700-1000 and a whole donor truck would be near 5k depending on year and usable parts. I was quoted $2500 for an engine, trans, harness and computer and that was considerably cheaper then other yards around here.

I think for what I have so far I haven't done too bad. Aside from making it run a complete drivetrain for $1300 is a pretty good price considering nothing needs rebuilt.
 
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