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Anybody using adjustable strut rods?

correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't it be up and down movement and not fore and aft as the body rolls in hard cornering one side of the suspension is forced down while the other side the pressure/load is released and by having the heim joint it allows free movement and faster response from the k member to control arm? The adjustable portion the rod would effect the fore and aft movement?
 
Yes that's what I meant.....I musta boogered it up. I meant that with the addition of the heim joint that that REMOVES up and down movement from the strut rod bushing. Right? The fore and aft would still be there. Although I am sure with yall's bushings fore and aft movement is reduced quite a bit.

The up and down movement I am referring to is from suspension travel. I wasn't talking about body roll, but that force would also be eliminated with your design as well.
 
I think you and I are taking about the same thing. But I wouldn't say it removes the upper and downward motion. If anything it increases it. It allows control arm free-er movement up and down throughout its suspension travel with less binding. In turn increasing responsiveness in corning situations and allowing for a more planted tire.

The adjustable strut rods do two things

Adjusts caster (Fore and Aft)

Allows free-er movement up and down and the k member point
 
That's right......where it removes the up and down motion is from the BUSHING. Since the heim joint is there, it takes all the up and down OFF the bushing, does it not? At least that's how it appears. School me if I'm missin somethin.

And as far as caster adjustment, I think that it's only a good idea to adjust only enough to get the control arm perpendicular with the control arm pivot, IF it is out of line. .....or MAYBE .5 degree either way. After that, I'll have to disagree with adjusting caster with the strut rod.


I think you and I are taking about the same thing. But I wouldn't say it removes the upper and downward motion. If anything it increases it. It allows control arm free-er movement up and down throughout its suspension travel with less binding. In turn increasing responsiveness in corning situations and allowing for a more planted tire.

The adjustable strut rods do two things

Adjusts caster (Fore and Aft)

Allows free-er movement up and down and the k member point

- - - Updated - - -

In this picture off your site, Look at the heim joint in the red circle. Won't that relieve the up and down FORCE from the bushing in the green circle? I am almost 100% certain it does. That's a BIG improvement....almost enough for me to get a pair.
 

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yup, you and I are on the same page now. The only thing is the part circled in green is not a bushing its a actually aluminum spacer with a shoulder on one end. So the bushing is no longer needed because of the hiem joint. Thanks for the posts RustyRatRod I think this may have cleared up a lot of questions and spiked a good conversation.
 
Oh super coolness. I didn't realize the bushing was slam eliminated. That's badass. I gotta put these on my list then cause that eliminates one less thing to go bad. Thanks man.
 
I am using them in my red '66. The purpose behind installing them was to free up the movement of the front suspension. When I had everything together and adjusted sans torsion bars and shocks I could move the assembly through the full travel with one hand.

When I set it down and aligned it I basically set the front cams out and the rears in and had -.5 deg. camber and +4.5-4.75 deg. of caster. This is by far one of the best upgrades I ever made to my car. I used Firm Feel upper control arms, RMS adjustable strut rods, PST wear parts and tie rod sleeves, and an AR Engineering Wilwood Dynalite caliper adapter kit. Oh the rotors came from Rotor Pro's, cunifer brake line from Fedhill, and Fragola Performance for the hoses and -3 to 3/8-24 UNF adapters.

So far so good. Car leaves really nice!

Charger Front Suspension.jpg
 
Jeremiah....your rotors are on the wrong side, but looks good otherwise with the Wilwood caliper.
 
0/2, say what? LOL!!!
 
Hemi Rebel, Not trying to say your wrong, but, your not right, lol! The "slots" point to the rear, so if ya swapped them, they would be facing in the right position. The pic shows them pointing forward.
 
Hemi Rebel, Not trying to say your wrong, but, your not right, lol! The "slots" point to the rear, so if ya swapped them, they would be facing in the right position. The pic shows them pointing forward.

The pic shows the left front. What we need to see is the right front. I say the rotor on the right front has the slots facing toward the rear. So if they were to be swapped from side to side the it would not matter. You would be right back where you started from.
 
The pic shows the left front. What we need to see is the right front. I say the rotor on the right front has the slots facing toward the rear. So if they were to be swapped from side to side the it would not matter. You would be right back where you started from.

Unless they are machined for left and right sides:yes:
 
0/2, say what? LOL!!!

lol ok when I go to the other shop I will take pictures of both rotors to see what exactly I did. Once we have clear evidence we will then be able to decide if I am allowed to pick up another wrench!
 
Depends on how cold it is, lol!!!!
Drilled and slotted rotors do come rh/lh.
 
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