I've ran N20 on about every car I've owned, including many race cars, except a couple of my pick ups & my current 479ci-6bbl 68 RR, that I might still run a system on... there are allot of wives tales & myths out there about N20... that is the truth for sure... a stand alone fuel pump or system for the N20 side of things & relays to run all the electronics, both are an absolute must... no matter what type of switching you use... the way you activate the system is really a personal deal, some people like more control of when the system come on/in than others do, I always use a manual override switch to be able to arm or disable the system always, I have activated by electronic timers or throttle switches or a window switch depending on the application it's going on, I also usually would retard the timing when activated, the amount would be determined by how much & what type of system was to be used... My last Pro-Mod/Outlaw Pro-Stock had 3 systems, carb plate kits, a spray-bar plumbed in the manifold plenum & a Fogger kit at the base of the intake manifold or a direct port kit in the combustion chamber depending on head design & motor used... before I went to a Blower & FI... there is many ways to apply the system, I used an old Jaccobs Electronics Engine Management system {modified}& a MSD 7AL w/multi step ignition retard, that were both highly modified by my partner/buddy Rob C. a electronics guru, you could set it by RPM or throttle position or time activated even, 1-2 or all 3 kits if you really wanted to or the order they came on... I have never had an engine failure or fire due to the N20 system ever, but I always took measures to make stuff safe... I would usually use a hobb switch for both oil pressure & fuel pressure that wouldn't let the system activate, if you didn't have the proper oil &/or fuel pressures period....
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it is an oxidizer & a cooling agent {-409*f}, along with pressurizing the cylinder {blower in a bottle}, never fill a bottle or let it get above 1200psi helps too, the bottle position is important too the inlet tube should always bee submerged, which usually means the outlet/fitting needs to be pointed down, a blow off valve needs to be vented outside the car... I usually had my bottles mounted at a 30* angle too parallel with the frame/front to rear....