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best street cam 440

charger318

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What do u guys think or use on street in your 440? I'm about to build a 440 for my 74 charger se. 440 .030 over bore, stock forged crank, stock rods, forged pistons with 10.5:1, edelbrock performers rpm heads out of box, performers rpm intake, 750 Holley vac secondary. I kind of want to stay with hydraulic cam to use the heavy duty stamped rocker arms. I got a buddy with 440 cheap running .509 cam just wondering if something better don't care which brand just POWER LOL and driveability oh probably gonna run a 3000 stall convertor.
 
I have a 451 with the .509 cam in it, stock rocker arms, and it works great on the street and strip. Lots of torque, and great power. I am using 915 heads at the time, but will be installing Perf RPM heads soon. Edelbrock has said that any cam other than stock requires an adjustable valve train. Did you realize that a larger cam needs the adjustable rocker arms? I don't know why, but thats what the tech guy said. Does anyone have any info on this? Thanks.

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I have a set of Crane Gold adjustable rocker arms that I will use when I install the RPM heads, since I am using the 509 cam.

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I am also using the same RPM intake, Holley carb, and 3000 stall converter as you are.
 
I have a stock balanced bottom end, reworked 906 heads, .525 hyd. cam with stock rockers, TorkerII, and an 850 Holley vac. sec. Runs great on the street and did a 13.70 last year with 391 gears and a 2400 stall converter. Goin up to 430's and a 3000 stall this year. Oh and the Dobie weighs in at 4200 with me in it.
 
Garys1969rr u ever take your car down 1/4 mile to see what time it does? As for adjustable valve train for Eddy's with different then stock cam I don't know why unless those heads are tall in which case u could just get longer pushrods? If I have to use adjustable rocker then ill go solid lifter cam for the extra 30 HP u usually get with solid over "same size" hyd cam. My buddy with cuda 440 has 509 cam with stock rockers I just didn't know what lift does stock rockers start to have geometry issues with or pull the stem on guide for extra wear?
 
Yes I have ran it down the 1/4 mile at Bandimere, ( 5600 feet elevation) and it runs mid 12s at 109 MPH. Best ET is 12.58@109.

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Stock rocker gear works fine with the 915 heads. But Edelbrock says to use adj rocker arms with the RPM heads unless its a stock cam.

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And I agree, charger318. I would prefer a solid cam and lifters with adj rocker arms. But will try these Crane rocker arms with the 509 cam, until I can get a solid lifter cam.
 
Not sure its the best...but I had the .509 in my 440 with ported 906 heads and the stock 72 pistons around 8.25 cr so Im told. 4.30 gears 3500 stall in a 3800 lb car. ran 12.5s at 109 I now have the lunatti 276/284 513/.533 and hate it
 
I just went through this in the last two weeks. I have the Edelbrock RPMs and intake, Memphis Comp Cam (.545 lift), their adjustable rockers and pushrods, MSD ignition and 6AL igniton box with rev limiter. My cam is probably a little big for town driving as I have to clear it out occasionally but it does hit a mean lick.


[video=youtube;CDOR3uG0FuY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDOR3uG0FuY&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
That's a wide open question and it all depends on what one considers (or wants to put up with) on the street and how long you expect your engine to last. When I hear "street" I think of someone actually driving their car daily and taking long freeway trips, because that's what you do in a street car. With that in mind keep the LSA at 112 or maybe 110 depending on the grind. The 108 LSA cams will make lots of upper mid range power but the low end drivability will suffer. Also, the fuel mixture isn't really doing so well with the higher overlap at low speeds so these hot cams need to be run at the upper RPM to be efficient. If you want power over low speed drivability then go with a 108 LSA cam and keep your foot to the floor as often as possible.
 
in my 440 HP from 1969 a EDelbrock Performer Cam does the "work"... The Car has a lot torque from the bottem end.... and it makes a lot of fun ... driving in Town also ..as driving down the country roads... there´s always TORQUE availibe...
 
in my 440 HP from 1969 a EDelbrock Performer Cam does the "work"... The Car has a lot torque from the bottem end.... and it makes a lot of fun ... driving in Town also ..as driving down the country roads... there´s always TORQUE availibe...

I have the .495 lift Edelbrock Performer cam that came with my 2087 kit that I would sell if someone was interested.
Here is the one I have but I am using the lifters.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/7194/10002/-1
 
Anyone here try the Comp cam xe275hl. 231/237 dur. @.050, 525/525 lift
 
There is no such thing as a "best stock street cam". Pick something and try it, you'll learn what you think is best.
 
Anyone here try the Comp cam xe275hl. 231/237 dur. @.050, 525/525 lift

I have this cam in my 69 Road runner- 440, .030 with Keith Black pistons, 906 heads, stock HP manifolds and a TTI 2 1/2" exhaust with an 'X' pipe. I have a 4 speed and 3.55 gears- I love the cam so far.
 
There is no such thing as a "best stock street cam". Pick something and try it, you'll learn what you think is best.
this is correct. too many variables to pick one profile and think it's good for all purposes. cam profile selection can be as foggy as picking converters.
 
How did u set the prelode on the lifter I've seen people with adjustable rockers on hyd. Came but not sure on to set them or if they need adjustment twice a year like solid lifters?
 
The 509 cam can produce a lot of low end torque if set up right. And thats what you want for the street. Alot of low and mid range torque. I'm using a Holley Street Dominator intake manifold which helps low end torque due to the smaller runner size. Especially in a 451 as this manifold was prob designed for a 383/400 cubic inch engine. I also run 20 degrees initial advance which helps low end torque in my motor. I run this 509 cam straight up, but advancing it 4 degrees would help low end even more due to the earlier closing point on the intake valve.

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And the motor is pretty much done pulling real hard above 5000 RPM. I think the manifold isn't able to flow the amount of air the engine needs at the higher engine speed.
 
How did u set the prelode on the lifter I've seen people with adjustable rockers on hyd. Came but not sure on to set them or if they need adjustment twice a year like solid lifters?

You should only have to adjust them once and be done with hydraulic lifters. That said, IMHO, adjusting them correctly is trickier than adjusting solid lifters (for me anyway). At least with solid lifters it's cut and dried and there's a clearance that can be measured with a feeler gauge.

With hydraulic lifters, instead of having a specific measurement you can check with a feeler gauge, you twist an oily pushrod back and forth between your thumb and forefinger while tightening on the adjuster until you feel the amount of resistance that tells you that you are at zero preload, then tighten the adjuster another 1/2 turn or so. Some say to get to zero preload by tightening on the adjuster while trying to move the pushrod up and down until you can't anymore but that way didn't work for me. The problem with adjusting the hydraulic cams, to me, is that it is done subjectively and by feel, not with a feeler gauge like with solids.

The other thing that I think makes solids better for something you want for performance is that solids have been shown to give more power versus a hydraulic with equivalent specs.
 
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