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440 issue

Dreadl0ck

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My 440 is acting up a bit so I have a few cooling questions

1) There's no heat in the coupe of the car, regardless of setting on the fan. I can feel both hoses going from the water pump getting hot after driving, but no heating inside the car. What would be your steps of looking into the problem?

2) Aftermarket temp gauge shows 160-170 after driving around for a while (about 60 degrees ambient temp). When open the hood and feel the radiator it's HOT - like frying egg hot. Both upper and lower radiator hose are hot to the touch, as well as the hoses going through the firewall. I disconnected the electrical fan to see if I could get the gauge to move up - but no. I suspect bad sender or bad gauge. Can I short anything on the sender to see if the gauge is bad?

3) How is the cooling system supposed to work without an expansion tank for the coolant? I got a hole on the side of the filler neck which has a hose connected to it which leads straight down under the car. I guess the car finds its own coolant level - since I couldn't resist the urge to top it up - it pissed all over the garage floor when I came back last night. Since it's not a closed system (or is it??) where can air be trapped - if that's the problem?

4) After shutting off I heard a hissing sound which I thought was the brake booster or vacuum pump - but it came from the passenger side, around first header tube or between 1 and 2 cylinder. Can it be a bad header gasket or bad header bolt which lets coolant out when the coolant is expanding after shutting down car?

many questions from a pretty new old car owner. Thanks in advance.
 
You need to check the cable on the temp control of your heater at both ends to see if it is allowing hot fluid into the heater coil. There is a valve there to regulate the amount of flow into the coil. The cars back then did not have an expansion tank. Usually the level will self regulate and stay the same. Some people buy a small recovery tank and install it.
 
Hmm, I need to drain the system to check the cable to the temp control right?

5) If there's trapped air in there somewhere which restricts circulation - what would be the best way to get rid of it? On my Dodge Magnum I usually just put compressed air down the filler neck and open the fitting on the upper radiator hose. Is there any similar trick you can do on a 440?
 
What year is your car? Heat, yes check the valve. If 2" is left to the top of the radiator, it should allow for expansion. Cars did not have expansion tanks til about 1970. Don't need one.

Get a digital laser temperature gun to be sure. Then you can check individual components.
 
it's a 1969 roadrunner with an aftermarket radiator. So - the idea is that the coolant expands inside the radiator and you should resist the urge to top it up. The small hose is for the times you couldn't resist and or the car is boiling?

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The cable that controls your temp for the heater in located under your dash. No need to drain anything. It runs from the temp control on your heater panel to the top of your heater box under the passengers side.
 
Yes on the expansion. The car at car shows with the puddle underneath are the owners who just can't resist topping it ip before a run. Not needed.
 
Alright, so that part straightened out - about the sender / gauge combo that shows too low - any advice on that?

Air caught in the system?

Hissing noise?
 
Yes on the expansion. The car at car shows with the puddle underneath are the owners who just can't resist topping it ip before a run. Not needed.

You can always zip tie a beer can in place to catch any overflow from the hose.
 
Run the engine with the radiator cap off and the heater on full. This will help "burp" the system and get rid of any trapped air.
If you ground the wire that leads to the temperature sender (do it very briefly, though), your temp gauge should go to hot.
 
Alright, so now the problem is the opposite lol

I got the heater to work - nice hot air inside the car which is nice. So I took it out for the first test cruise which involved long periods of idle waiting for the traffic jam to clear. Temp skyrocketed to 240 on the gauge and I had to pull over... Back to the drawing board.

So I guess the route to go is the basic things

1) Check coolant levels - enough to cover the fans inside the radiator but without the car spewing coolant all over the place
2) Check that the pump is actually moving coolant through the system at good rates
3) Check for trapped air by burping it as much as I can

and if that fails

Read all information about 440 overheating :)
Pull plugs and check if there's coolant residue (bad gasket or worse - bad head)
Timing

Any more?
 
They make a vacuum pump that will attach to the coolant system with a special radiator cap that will pull the air out and then fill the system to prevent air lock... Don't know if you can rent one or may need to take it to a shop to have it done.... You can also run a fail safe t stat..., not that is your problem..just cheap insurance...Good luck...
 
Alright, so now the problem is the opposite lol

I got the heater to work - nice hot air inside the car which is nice. So I took it out for the first test cruise which involved long periods of idle waiting for the traffic jam to clear. Temp skyrocketed to 240 on the gauge and I had to pull over... Back to the drawing board.

So I guess the route to go is the basic things

1) Check coolant levels - enough to cover the fans inside the radiator but without the car spewing coolant all over the place
2) Check that the pump is actually moving coolant through the system at good rates
3) Check for trapped air by burping it as much as I can

and if that fails

Read all information about 440 overheating :)
Pull plugs and check if there's coolant residue (bad gasket or worse - bad head)
Timing

Any more?

16 psi radiator cap. If the cap will not hold pressure it will vent coolant and overheat
 
Are the caps proprietary to the manufacturer of the radiator? I'm not 100% sure of the brand of the radiator since it was in the car when I bought it.

- - - Updated - - -

Also - what brand of thermostats are you guys using? In my gen3 hemi I was running nothing else than the Jet thermostats - but old cars are new territory to me lol
 
i think 440s all have asthma due to cam profile, seems ta makem lean. if ya drill a hole n thermostat of my 440 ya got bout three minutes from cold to 230.
 
it likes an 850 double pump holley. and square jets at 76 ( same front and back)
 
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