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front disc brake upgrade

19 69 GTX

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Just wondering what kit everyone is using . I have a 69 GTX and wanna convert to manual disc brakes car is a driver and sees the the track as well. Don't wanna break the bank but want a good kit. Thanks
 
I've been looking around as well so I'm interested to see what some of the other mention. I looked at a few of the cheaper options like right stuff but heard some bad reviews about figment. I spoke to DR DIFF told him what I had and what I was doing he sent me a list of what I needed off his site. Of course you can't go wrong with Wilwood. Spoke to a rep recently he told me to buy the basic kit it's all you need unless your road racing
 
My 70 GTX was power drum I converted it to 4 wheel power disc brakes using MBM brakes. The pedal is a little hard but it stops really well, also, I upgraded it to the drilled and slotted rotors. Beyond the slightly hard pedal, it stops really, really well total cost was about $1,000.
 
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I went with the SSBC kit like this. http://ssbrakes.com/i-10092675-disc...eels-only-11-inch-rotors-v8-spindle-w154.html

You can get it cheaper at Jegs with add'l discount if you have a comp licence.They stop my 3900 lb brick from 145 MPH no problem!!

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I've posted this question before but still on the hunt to solve frustrating problem with the brake pedal after power-disk brake conversion install by a shop that did about 2/3 of the job right on my '63 Ply. Pedal was initially way too high and wouldn't fully return leaving brakes lights on. Re-did the linkage to bring the pedal down and put in a better quality pedal connecting rod a friend made up for me at his shop. This also allowed keeping the light switch in its original position. What continues to be a problem is a pillow soft pedal (no resistance under foot) but brakes work fine. And pedal will not always fully return leaving brake lights on. One more issue from the install is some dead pedal travel before brakes engage. I've emailed and called the brake outfit (mentioned in above post) several times and they evidently don't want to help. There were other issues with the install I'll spare you details on. Re-bleeding and prop valve check has been done. Anyone encounter these problems?
 
I like the Wilwoods on the wagon. 4120 lbs and stops great.. even from the 111mph 1/4 mile blasts.
 
Dr. Diff will set you up. Give him a call, great service!
 
I got the master power kit a long time ago. Came complete ready to bolt on uca and lca. Now they offer the 4 piston kits and everything.
 
I went with the Right Stuff kit from Summit Racing. It has good stopping power. Couldn't install the rears because of the backspace on my rear wheels.

For sale if you're interested. They fit a 68 GTX and other compatible vehicles.
 
Just wondering what kit everyone is using . I have a 69 GTX and wanna convert to manual disc brakes car is a driver and sees the the track as well. Don't wanna break the bank but want a good kit. Thanks
I use SSSB and my son has Wilwood. I'd prefer Wilwood hands down. It's peculiar that you have so much travel and such a soft pedal, I had a similar situation. I installed a manual prop valve and closed the front circuit off completely then bled the rears and repeated it closing off the rears and bleeding the fronts. I had a bitch of a time with the factory style prop valve but got a perfect bleed and pedal feel doing it as mentioned previously. Wilwood calipers have bleeders in all four corners, top and bottom and should be bled starting at the lowers followed by the uppers. Taping on the caliper lightly releases air bubbles to the top of the caliper where it will bleed out easily. The SSSB system on my car is a whole different animal and required three consecutive bleeds to clear the minute air bubbles out. They use Corvette calipers in their kit (4 piston as well ) and are easy to install. Wilwood requires that you center the caliper and pads to the rotor via spacers and this has to be done near perfectly. If after installation, if Wilwood calipers wiggle the slightest to one side or the other, the alignment of the caliper to the rotor is off and braking greatly reduced accompanied by strange grinding sounds. Neither calipers are of the "slide" design where one pad touches the rotor and the caliper slide sideways until the other pad is in contact. I trashed the master that came with the SSSB kit, it was **** all round, and had to install another brand of a lesser bore but ended up on the threshold of minimum brake fluid volume to the pistons. In the end I installed a Wilwood master and problem solved.
 
the odd thing is the braking action seems fine different feel than a spongy pedal; but pedal feel or resistance is so soft and it doesn't always return leaving the brake lights on. Almost like the spring is too wimpy. Back to putzing with it again today.
 
the odd thing is the braking action seems fine different feel than a spongy pedal; but pedal feel or resistance is so soft and it doesn't always return leaving the brake lights on. Almost like the spring is too wimpy. Back to putzing with it again today.

It sounds as though the master is not retracting to the "home" position as opposed to air in the system. Putting a spring on the brake arm will return the arm but you shouldn't have to do this. The only things that come to mind is binding of the master center cylinder, binding because of too much of an angle on the push rod going into the master or the brake pedal ratio being too high. When set up properly the rod going into the master should be slightly above level - the rod drops below level as the pedal is pressed and may have slight binding when fully forward. If the pedal ratio is too high, braking is very easy and positive on the down stroke but the "pendulum" effect of the brake arm may be more than the braking system can overcome to lift the pedal arm to it's full height. If this is the case, I'd be looking at the length and position of the rod from the pedal arm to the master. You never mentioned if you had a direct or "cantilevered" system from the pedal to the master and if you originally had a power setup I'm sure you will be into a bit of repositioning the master and possibly a different brake arm. To eliminate this type of problem, you need to know the full stroke of the master which is best taken before bench bleeding, and, after installation confirm the full movement by marking the rod under the dash. Examine the push rod for any scrape marks on it's side at full return with the pedal up. They will usually be evident on the bottom of the rod. I would also consider the size of the bore of the master as opposed to the size of the brake cylinder bores, be it disk or drum. A small bore master is more difficult to retract and in days of old, there was a spring installed either internally or externally.
 
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You've given me some more to look into Yatzee and thanks much for this advice. My car didn't have power brakes before and sort of regretting the power add on. I see some guys on the forum talking about dropping the power brakes. With all of the putzing I've done on the rod adjustment my concern had been a level rod. Didn't think on the possible swing up and down motion necessary. I have developed a mysterious vacuum leak somewhere and have made all sorts of checks on this with some new lines and plugging. I wonder if that rod could be off kilter creating a leak in the booster. Anyway more to checkout...thanks again. Ron H.
 
don't know what car you have; but obviously want to make sure of the correct kit. P-online should have been able to tell you exactly what you needed for your car informing them what you had. There's a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum and likely they can give you more info....
 
The shop that did the brake conversion left some of the work undone, that is and some done right and not. I don't know if it's the shop's quality of install work or the kit they selected to install considering the problems I encountered. The kit was SSBC and was disappointed in their not getting back to me with some information I was hoping to get to correct my problems or at least their being interested enough to hear about the problems so they might avoid issues with future customers. What was more irritating was they said they would get back to me and then silence while I sent them more reminders to contact me. In other words...this pissed me off. Be wary if you choose to have a shop do the install and which kit you select. In hindsight I should have gone with plan A to do the install rather than a shop. I'm sure there are many good ones to be found; but I should have done more homework as I found out the hard way.
 
The shop that did the brake conversion left some of the work undone, that is and some done right and not. I don't know if it's the shop's quality of install work or the kit they selected to install considering the problems I encountered. The kit was SSBC and was disappointed in their not getting back to me with some information I was hoping to get to correct my problems or at least their being interested enough to hear about the problems so they might avoid issues with future customers. What was more irritating was they said they would get back to me and then silence while I sent them more reminders to contact me. In other words...this pissed me off. Be wary if you choose to have a shop do the install and which kit you select. In hindsight I should have gone with plan A to do the install rather than a shop. I'm sure there are many good ones to be found; but I should have done more homework as I found out the hard way.

Did you pay this shop? If so, I'd be raising hell to get it fixed or give me $$$ back
 
Good question. I can only blame myself for trusting this outfit as they said they would "make it right". I gather they developed a hearing and memory problem or forgot how to use the phone or email. The old saying "a sucker is born every minute"...I've been reborn a couple of times...
 
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