I feel like the RCA Victor dog after that one.A round back alternator with electronic ignition can give you problems...just saying.

I have the usual dual field alternator that charges like a mofo?
I feel like the RCA Victor dog after that one.A round back alternator with electronic ignition can give you problems...just saying.
See, that's the thing. In 1st and 2nd full boogy, floored until redline, it doesn't run out of steam or falter at all. Once into 3rd (or sometimes it waits until 4th even), up over 4000RPM, all of a sudden uggggg, out of gas.Here,try this. Drive normally up to about 70 mph or so. Now downshift and punch it. Now you should be able to go well past that point where it stumbles if it is a fuel problem as you are at full throttle for a much shorter period of time.
You missed what I'am getting at. Try what I suggested and it still looses power as before what then?See, that's the thing. In 1st and 2nd full boogy, floored until redline, it doesn't run out of steam or falter at all. Once into 3rd (or sometimes it waits until 4th even), up over 4000RPM, all of a sudden uggggg, out of gas.
Lift, let it catch it's breath, a couple seconds later it's ok.
Hey, I just thought of something else here.
I drive the car once a week or so and every time, it has lost its' prime (bowls are dry?) and it takes several cranks to get any fuel back up to the carb.
Wonder if that is of any importance here?
At wot the pressure should stay above zero or the bowls will drain dry. This has happened to me.
I have an 1/8" NPT outlet on my fuel line now that I just bought a little mechanical gauge for. Would it be accurate enough to simply take some "rubber" fuel line from that port and extend the gauge up to where I could see it thru my windshield?Temporarily zip tie a mechanical gauge to your cowl area or windshield wiper just for testing purposes. Yes, you would NEVER run fuel into the cabin.
About 90F or so. Engine hangs at about 180F at that temperature typically, although it will climb to just shy of 190F while going down the highway at a steady 60+MPH (3.55 gears).What was the ambient temperature at the time? Was there extended idling just prior to the romp. I think I ran my 850 Demon dry one time just goofing around and gunning it after extended idling in hot conditions. Has not happened since. Did you duplicate the scenario to see if it does it again.
I've read folks post that about teflon before, but when using Teflon tape on threads (which is what I do with any piping, since I'm a 35+ year fire sprinkler guy by trade) there is still plenty of metal on metal going on there.I trust a cheap mechanical guage way more than cheap electric one. Teflon tape on the sender might mess up an electric guage.
You know, you bring up a point I've wondered about myself since I installed the Carter "hemi" fuel pump that Mancini sells:My car was doing the exact same thing, it would only do it if I was hard on the gas for long pulls. I had been running the same exact fuel delivery system reliably for 2 years so plumbing size and sending unit issues were out, checked all lines then strapped a fuel pressure gauge to the hood and bingo. 7 psi at idle then a sustained 5 psi but keep pushing threw the gears and running the rpm's up and it noses over as the gauge nearly zero's out..... not enough volume. Pitched the imported Holley, bought a Carter, drilled and tapped out the ports from 1/4" to 3/8" NPT to be less restrictive, no more problems.