JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Jim says he sells 60 kits a month to one place. They are everywhere.
Heater box, do I dare chance?
- Thread starter BeeKool
- Start date
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Um that looks like the line that goes through the firewall to the vacuum port on the manifold.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Did you have a hose to the engine?
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
That would explain things. Hopefully it's salvageable. Perhaps just a Union and another vacuum line. The lines look good.
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
I bought car as a roller. Had to find my own engine and transmission and lots of other things. Kind of a Frankenstein bee
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Mine was funny, everything rear of the firewall was soft and flexible. After the fire wall it is hard as a rock. I am putting a splice in mine at the feedthrough grommet and using silicon hose to the new EFI body. Somebody must have just yanked on that hose and it broke right there... May be able to get nipple in there (super glue it or something).
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
You can get replacement hose sets but they are EXPENSIVE.
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure if the climate control that I have with the car is functional or has hoses and coupler. Will find out tomorrow when I dig it out of she'd. It seems to me that the buttons were stiff. Maybe some WD-40 will solve that.
Superb Bee
Well-Known Member
Mity vac is handy for checking all the functions while the box in on the bench
nice job getting it out, is your dash still in?
nice job getting it out, is your dash still in?
Superb Bee
Well-Known Member
lol
That's like the first thing I take out
First is all trim on outside, gutters, belts, reveals, etc,
then doors, deck lid, hood, bumpers (from the brackets), tail panel, all lights, and fenders.
Then front and rear glass.
then seats, console, kicks, pillars, dash, heater box, wiper assembly. Takes me and a helper 1 full day to strip down a car that drove in and have it on the rotisserie with just quarter glass in it. (not stripping K frame, we roll it out and rebuild it as a whole)
And that's with everything bagged, tagged, and 3 pages of notes...
Anyway, your project looks fun, is that a 70 bee? does that have upper door panels?
That's like the first thing I take out
First is all trim on outside, gutters, belts, reveals, etc,
then doors, deck lid, hood, bumpers (from the brackets), tail panel, all lights, and fenders.
Then front and rear glass.
then seats, console, kicks, pillars, dash, heater box, wiper assembly. Takes me and a helper 1 full day to strip down a car that drove in and have it on the rotisserie with just quarter glass in it. (not stripping K frame, we roll it out and rebuild it as a whole)
And that's with everything bagged, tagged, and 3 pages of notes...
Anyway, your project looks fun, is that a 70 bee? does that have upper door panels?
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
It's a 70 Bee. It had seats and carpet ando column and console yesterday. I figured I should paint the floor and overhaul the heater box. I've already committed myself to keeping it an A/C car. Would be awful stupid to finish it and have a bad heater core. The engine bay is empty so that helps.
I have a freshly overhauled 440 sitting in my shop and it appears will not be installed into car until July. I can only work on the car 3 hrs or so every night and once March comes I need the shop for other things.
One thing at a time.
I have a freshly overhauled 440 sitting in my shop and it appears will not be installed into car until July. I can only work on the car 3 hrs or so every night and once March comes I need the shop for other things.
One thing at a time.
Superb Bee
Well-Known Member
are them soft door panel pads?
if its a real ac car I would leave it in there for sure and rebuild it..
Are you pulling that dash frame and pedal set? seems a shame to go this far and not rip them parts out and give them the proper coatings and attention. And at that paint might as well do the wiper assembly... lol
also give them kick panels and pillar covers a sem touch up
if its a real ac car I would leave it in there for sure and rebuild it..
Are you pulling that dash frame and pedal set? seems a shame to go this far and not rip them parts out and give them the proper coatings and attention. And at that paint might as well do the wiper assembly... lol
also give them kick panels and pillar covers a sem touch up
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
are them soft door panel pads?
if its a real ac car I would leave it in there for sure and rebuild it..
Are you pulling that dash frame and pedal set? seems a shame to go this far and not rip them parts out and give them the proper coatings and attention. And at that paint might as well do the wiper assembly... lol
also give them kick panels and pillar covers a sem touch up
Careful, I found the "while I am here I may as well..." slope VERY slippery and ended up with nothing left installed on the body
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
Dash frames nice. I think it was repainted when the car was about 10 years ago. Mostly just dust were seeing on it.
I'm not sure about the upper door panels. They're not original to the car and they're rough but do the job.
I may pull the pedal assembly and freshen it up.
I'm not sure where to stop though. The bezels are all old but good. Have an aged look to them. If part of the interior is brand new looking and other parts are original to this car or some other 70 coronet, will it look good.
Console is good bad has wear, seats are good but show their age.
By the time Im finished with everything A/C related it will have added at least 2k to the price and dozens of hours and curse words. But worth it in the end, I love A/C. Lol
After this I get to overhaul a rally gauge clusters.
One thing at a time though.....
I'm not sure about the upper door panels. They're not original to the car and they're rough but do the job.
I may pull the pedal assembly and freshen it up.
I'm not sure where to stop though. The bezels are all old but good. Have an aged look to them. If part of the interior is brand new looking and other parts are original to this car or some other 70 coronet, will it look good.
Console is good bad has wear, seats are good but show their age.
By the time Im finished with everything A/C related it will have added at least 2k to the price and dozens of hours and curse words. But worth it in the end, I love A/C. Lol
After this I get to overhaul a rally gauge clusters.
One thing at a time though.....
Superb Bee
Well-Known Member
I would get rid of them upper door panels, tops of doors should be painted interior color, some people do them exterior color, but I haven't seen that factory, I have seen burnt orange out and in with painted burnt orange but if its burnt o out and black in I seen them black.
As far as the bezels go, I have made some old broken ones look really nice, in the years before they were repopped. Get yourself some chrome pinstriping, I use trimbrite brand (I think the 1/4", used to use 3/8' and trim it after it was stuck on) it but the 1/4" works with one less step). soda blast your bezel and touch up what ever is wrong, I use a razor to cut it into shape (a lot of them have little smashes and defects, just cut them straight) then use SEM Bumper Bite glaze as your filler plastic and fix all them defects, the stuff sticks to plastic like nothing you ever seen and its flexible.
Once all that is done and the part is all uniform and looking good, wash it with sem soap, hit it with Krylon fusion for plastic black rattle can paint, and once its dry put the pinstripe around the border where the chrome is supposed to be.
NEXT trim the stripe if needed, and clear the entire piece with the matching krylon for plastic gloss clear. I normally use sem landau and their clear BUT it kills the shine in the chrome because they only have the low gloss clear for plastic (not sure if they have made a new one yet), but the krylon is cheaper, and looks better.
After that is all done it drys and looks new, takes time and $30 of materials but repopped bezels are not cheap...
NOW that being said, they should be wood grain, so just the chrome border is your concern at that point...
If you are getting the car down to this point, I know time is a bitch but I would be kicking myself for not going all the way, doing the wipers, dash complete, pedals, is about another $800 and 5 hours, but if you try to do it later its a lot more time...
50 points to anyone who can figure out what is not right about this interior? Its a 70 bee, burnt in and out, it has the correct woodgrain that ALL bees came with, there was never a bee made with out woodgrain rallye dash, I have bought them with sweeps but when I pull them apart see it was added or found a rebody underneath. But who can see where they messed up on this interior?
As far as the bezels go, I have made some old broken ones look really nice, in the years before they were repopped. Get yourself some chrome pinstriping, I use trimbrite brand (I think the 1/4", used to use 3/8' and trim it after it was stuck on) it but the 1/4" works with one less step). soda blast your bezel and touch up what ever is wrong, I use a razor to cut it into shape (a lot of them have little smashes and defects, just cut them straight) then use SEM Bumper Bite glaze as your filler plastic and fix all them defects, the stuff sticks to plastic like nothing you ever seen and its flexible.
Once all that is done and the part is all uniform and looking good, wash it with sem soap, hit it with Krylon fusion for plastic black rattle can paint, and once its dry put the pinstripe around the border where the chrome is supposed to be.
NEXT trim the stripe if needed, and clear the entire piece with the matching krylon for plastic gloss clear. I normally use sem landau and their clear BUT it kills the shine in the chrome because they only have the low gloss clear for plastic (not sure if they have made a new one yet), but the krylon is cheaper, and looks better.
After that is all done it drys and looks new, takes time and $30 of materials but repopped bezels are not cheap...
NOW that being said, they should be wood grain, so just the chrome border is your concern at that point...
If you are getting the car down to this point, I know time is a bitch but I would be kicking myself for not going all the way, doing the wipers, dash complete, pedals, is about another $800 and 5 hours, but if you try to do it later its a lot more time...
50 points to anyone who can figure out what is not right about this interior? Its a 70 bee, burnt in and out, it has the correct woodgrain that ALL bees came with, there was never a bee made with out woodgrain rallye dash, I have bought them with sweeps but when I pull them apart see it was added or found a rebody underneath. But who can see where they messed up on this interior?
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
Is there a clock in or anything at all in the left side of the gauge clusters?
Secondly, I have a rally gauge clusters with black bezels. Don't know what car it came from.
Your interior looks perfect, too nice. I bit beyond the level I wish to go. At this point anyway.
I don't mind the interior showing a little wear, so long as the dash and bezels aren't cracked, seats look good (no tears) I kinda dig the original look.
I'm afraid of it being too easy to tell that this cars interior is made from 6 cars.
The upper door panels are a bit of a pain. They are loose and have a few cracks and if I'm not mistaken are actually from a Charger. (Wouldn't bet my life but that's what I was told)
Your car looks gorgeous and maybe if I didn't live on a gravel road I would try for such beauty. Thanks for the info SB. Yours is definitely Superb and I will be picking your brain more..
Secondly, I have a rally gauge clusters with black bezels. Don't know what car it came from.
Your interior looks perfect, too nice. I bit beyond the level I wish to go. At this point anyway.
I don't mind the interior showing a little wear, so long as the dash and bezels aren't cracked, seats look good (no tears) I kinda dig the original look.
I'm afraid of it being too easy to tell that this cars interior is made from 6 cars.
The upper door panels are a bit of a pain. They are loose and have a few cracks and if I'm not mistaken are actually from a Charger. (Wouldn't bet my life but that's what I was told)
Your car looks gorgeous and maybe if I didn't live on a gravel road I would try for such beauty. Thanks for the info SB. Yours is definitely Superb and I will be picking your brain more..
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
Btw, I saw somebody selling a complete nose 68-70 tic-toc-tac on another thread. I considered buying it, but I need to redo my entire cluster, and buying parts piecemeal didn't seem the way to go.
Superb Bee
Well-Known Member
That's not my bee, but I have one with the same interior only better (His gauges are yellow and lower plastics are too shiny, most likely used paint and not dye) ;) lol..
In that picture that car has the far gauge delete panel in it, and most likely with that n96 package, it would be hard to find a car that didn't have a tic toc, but I can't say for sure it was never done, My tx9 bee was a rallye dash car with radio delete, map delete, it was a stripped dash but still had a tic toc, that car was a rare build, stripe delete, black in and out, super trac pack car, bench seat, with 15" wheels. similar to this car with no stripe though. https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0117-269763/1970-dodge-super-bee/
But as far as what is wrong with that car heres a hint, it has to do with the seats, but its not the seats.
And that car in the mecum link also has something wrong with the hood, but its not the hood... lol, I can do this all day, my son hates when I do it, he says "enjoy the car, who cares whats not correct", I agree, and I in no way criticize for them for it, just fun to find whats different, its like mopar wheres waldo...
But Beekool, its not that much more work to get your interior mint, some paint, and a few tricks and it can be really nice.
And yes them soft uppers aren't for that car, cant see the entire thing but most likely charger parts. They sucked in a charger, lol.. I would lose them and paint them interior color. If they are medallion charger uppers they are worth something to someone if they are in good shape. Do you have hard panels for the back or soft? You should have bare doors in the front and hard panels in the back...
PS- a friend of mine has a complete 70 rallye dash all restored with tic toc new bezels, am fm, ash tray, dash pad, all black (no wood grain), I think he wants $2500 for it, he may take $2000, I never asked. He also has freshened up clusters with new faces, and tic tocs, he gets like $1000 for them but probably take $850, not sure but they come with new bezel too, that alone is $250, then $350 for tic toc, pretty fair price for a complete rallye cluster..
In that picture that car has the far gauge delete panel in it, and most likely with that n96 package, it would be hard to find a car that didn't have a tic toc, but I can't say for sure it was never done, My tx9 bee was a rallye dash car with radio delete, map delete, it was a stripped dash but still had a tic toc, that car was a rare build, stripe delete, black in and out, super trac pack car, bench seat, with 15" wheels. similar to this car with no stripe though. https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0117-269763/1970-dodge-super-bee/
But as far as what is wrong with that car heres a hint, it has to do with the seats, but its not the seats.
And that car in the mecum link also has something wrong with the hood, but its not the hood... lol, I can do this all day, my son hates when I do it, he says "enjoy the car, who cares whats not correct", I agree, and I in no way criticize for them for it, just fun to find whats different, its like mopar wheres waldo...
But Beekool, its not that much more work to get your interior mint, some paint, and a few tricks and it can be really nice.
And yes them soft uppers aren't for that car, cant see the entire thing but most likely charger parts. They sucked in a charger, lol.. I would lose them and paint them interior color. If they are medallion charger uppers they are worth something to someone if they are in good shape. Do you have hard panels for the back or soft? You should have bare doors in the front and hard panels in the back...
PS- a friend of mine has a complete 70 rallye dash all restored with tic toc new bezels, am fm, ash tray, dash pad, all black (no wood grain), I think he wants $2500 for it, he may take $2000, I never asked. He also has freshened up clusters with new faces, and tic tocs, he gets like $1000 for them but probably take $850, not sure but they come with new bezel too, that alone is $250, then $350 for tic toc, pretty fair price for a complete rallye cluster..
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