Edelbrock 1406 Issue

[Hanover Mopar]

Need some advice on a Edelbrock 600 CFM carb. Older unit, probably as much as 10 years, maybe more.
Starts great when cold every time. Starts fine with a nudge of gas almost every time after warmed up. If it stalls, you are screwed. It seems like it an instant flooded carb. Let it rest 10 minutes it starts right up with no sputtering like it was flooded. It’s on a 383 if that makes a difference. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[moparwacko]

Waiting for Lewtot184 to chime in...........
He's the carb guru.
But sounds like a typical Exelbrock heat soak issue. Do you have an insulating spacer? If not, get one. What kind of gas are you using? Ethanol free will also help eliminate this. 10 years, and its probably time for a rebuild too while you have it off. Eddys are easy to do, But check your choke operation also.
Easy fix

 

[Hanover Mopar]

No spacer. Will start there and also check fuel pressure

 

[1967coronet]

fuel pressure is a good place to look, the edelbrocks don't like much over 6 Lbs, Ive heard it will push fuel past the needle & seat.
Also check you float levels and make sure its at spec.

 

[PeteBell68]

There is a great tuning video on line from Edelbrock on the carbs .
Spacer is a requirement for these for heat soak .
Also in the front there are two screw for air adjustment .Screw them out wipe the screws to get them clean then blow pressurized air down the hole they came from .
Screw the screws back in all the way then back them out 1 1/2 turns .
Above mentioned for float levels .

 

[67 coronet]

almost for sure a heat soak issue. the crap in the newer fuels makes it vaporise at much lower temps.

 

[lewtot184]

where's the fuel filter located?

 

[YY1]

I've had this same issue with two different Eddy's.

Both times the filter was plugged with rust/sludge.

Not sure how it was able to start cold and run, then not start hot and only after a stall, but that was it.

 

[miller]

They like to be clean...inside and out!

 

[Tori]

This may not cure your problem, but as just found out and was mentioned earlier... if you've got an Edelbrock and don't have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on it, you need it. Put one on my car just because i had it laying around from a past project, set the pressure and BAM ! All my idle issues solved.

 

[Bruzilla]

It's not heat soak. It's Edelbrocks are a POS problem. I had this problem all the time with my Edelbrock even if I started the engine and it ran for a minute and quit, which is not long enough for the engine to get hot enough for heat soak. It was a major PITA when I first installed the engine and was testing things out. If I started it up and shut it down more than twice, that was it. It would flood out and be done until the next day when it would start right up again.

The only short-term fix that I know of is to hold the pedal to the floor when you go to start. That's the only way I ever got mine to work, and that was with a 1/2" phenolic spacer underneath. The long-term fix is get a Holley.

 

[YY1]

Mine was different.

If I controlled the starting and shut down, it was fine.

...but the instant it stalled....no bueno until cold, unless I poured gas in the carb from a can.

I replaced my metal fuel line (which was rusting and clogging things up), disassembled the carb (super easy), blew out the passages esp the accell pump squirters, and all was good after that.

 

[threewood]

I have an Edelbrock 1405 (manual choke) on my 318 poly and have no issue driving in AZ summers on 91 corn gas.
Phenolic spacer is mandatory.
Make sure your fuel lines are away from exhaust, engine and wrapped or insulated.
Mine works fine with stock mech pump.
I would pull the top off and double check the float levels. They are good carbs but heat soak is an issue.

 

[YY1]

...and I don't have a spacer or a regulator.

 

[lewtot184]

you don't need a regulator unless the fuel pressure exceeds 7psi. I know edelbrock says 6psi but they will take a little more. both of my cars use a carter type carb and neither get into vapor lock issues. I use a return line on both cars, insulated gaskets, and keep the fuel filter on the pressure side of the pump. people who persist on installing a filter on the suction side of the pump always have issues.

 

[dvw]

Again we have Edelbrock bashers. Instead lets see if we can solve the issue. First is it really flooded or out of fuel? If it starts like its flooded more than likely it is. Start with the basics. No more than 6psi fuel pressure. Invert the lid, place a little soapy water or kids bubbles around the needle and seat area while blowing into the fuel feed tube, any leaks? Seat washer, needle? Weigh both floats on an accurate scale. Is one heavy? If so replace it. Now set proper float level. Report back if this doesn't fix the issue. My bet is it'll take care of it.
Doug

 

[coloradodave]

Again we have Edelbrock bashers. Instead lets see if we can solve the issue. First is it really flooded or out of fuel? If it starts like its flooded more than likely it is. Start with the basics. No more than 6psi fuel pressure. Invert the lid, place a little soapy water or kids bubbles around the needle and seat area while blowing into the fuel feed tube, any leaks? Seat washer, needle? Weigh both floats on an accurate scale. Is one heavy? If so replace it. Now set proper float level. Report back if this doesn't fix the issue. My bet is it'll take care of it.
Doug

Once again, Doug is the voice of reason. A few guys on this forum continually bash Carter style (Edelbrock) carburetors and recommend Holley as the cure all. Both brands work well if adjusted and maintained correctly. The problem is that there are too many variables that affect the carburetor's operation. Old gas, old rusty fuel tanks, fuel pick-up socks deteriorated, lines with rust or crimps, misplaced fuel filters, old rubber hose porosity, loose clamps, running lines too close to exhaust components, etc., etc. Add to this the inexperience of most people in dealing with carburetors and the penchant to "adjust" every screw in sight, and you have a problem, no matter the brand of carburetor. I'll bet that a lot of carburetors are replaced that don't need to be, if only more time and diagnostics were used before just tossing them or worse, selling them to an unsuspecting buyer. Heatsoak? Sure, with today's fuel an insulating plate under most carburetors is a good idea. But first, diagnose...it could save someone a lot of money.

 

[oldbee]

+1, dave&doug got it right. Neither type likes any kind of crud. I've had troubles with both and that's usually the problem with both, but Holley's are a little more tolerant in my experience.

 

[Hanover Mopar]

Will clean up everything and blow out carbs. Just put an isolater on it and it seems better. Fuel filter is at tank end. Will pull that off also. Pump runs a hair over 6 pounds

 

[lewtot184]

Will clean up everything and blow out carbs. Just put an isolater on it and it seems better. Fuel filter is at tank end. Will pull that off also. Pump runs a hair over 6 pounds

filter on the suction side of a mechanical pump? that won't work.