Bruzilla
Well-Known Member
Try Googling this problem. You'll find out this is a serious trend problem with Edelbrock carbs.
Edelbrock 1406 Issue
- Thread starter Hanover Mopar
- Start date
Try Googling this problem. You'll find out this is a serious trend problem with Edelbrock carbs.
dvw
Well-Known Member
Your not going to repair anything by reading complaintsTry Googling this problem. You'll find out this is a serious trend problem with Edelbrock carbs.
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
I agree with dvw. who reads the booklet that comes with the carbs and try's to learn something? I came back from another road trip last night running a pair of edelbrocks. without any doubt the most reliable carb/intake system I've ever run on a big block.
I've said it before and I'll say it again. There are millions of the Carter style (Edelbrock, Weber, etc.) on vehicles around the world. If it were such a bad design or problematic does anybody think that ALL the major manufacturers would have used them as OEM carburetors? Remember, they had to provide warranty service at no charge. Both Edelbrock and Holley carburetors will function fine when installed, maintained and fed clean fuel...
Hanover Mopar
Well-Known Member
New spacer, checked idle screws and blew out ports, no change. Anyone hear of fuel pressure changing when motor warms up. I have a good liquid filled Marshall gauge. When cold I have 6 pounds, when it warms up it went to 3 pounds and even went to 0 pounds for quite a while. Meanwhile the motor was purring away and never stalled. I'm assuming the gauge but who the hell knows. I know everyone loves these carbs but my monster has a Holley XP 950 that runs flawlessly. I'm about ready to change but will listen to the group to talk me off the bridge.
Why change the carburetor now? Seems to me that there is a problem in the fuel delivery system. I'd borrow a dedicated vacuum/pressure gauge from one of the auto parts stores, 'T' it into your system after the fuel pump and see what actually is happening. If you haven't already, change the connecting hose between the tank and the hard line to the new type FI hose. Same for any other rubber hose in the system. If the carburetor really is +-10 years old, it needs to come off and be gone through. Rebuild it with an Edelbrock kit, not an ebay imposter and blow through every orifice with carburetor cleaner and high pressure air. Set the floats to specs and try again. Conversely, if you have a known good carburetor, you might try it first. Unless there are extenuating circumstances, carburetors usually don't just 'go bad'.
BTW, Googling complaints on Edelbrock carburetors would only be helpful if the poster actually took it apart and found a manufacturing flaw. Haven't seen that post yet...
BTW, Googling complaints on Edelbrock carburetors would only be helpful if the poster actually took it apart and found a manufacturing flaw. Haven't seen that post yet...
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
I've seen mechanical pumps do that and suppose electrics can do it too. so IF the pump is an issue what part of that makes the carb bad?
Hanover Mopar
Well-Known Member
I never said the carb was bad and I am wondering if the the pump might be the the issue. It could also be a defective pressure gauge. I am just trying to narrow down the search for this problem.
khryslerkid
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I love my Eddies!
khryslerkid
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Sure it can be. I was having an issue of 0 fuel pressure at wot and the pressure was different when it was warm. Pump was an Edelbrock performance pump into an Edelbrock 800cfm avs.
I can only guess that the gas was vaporizing in the line from heat because it was ok when cold (pressure would still drop to 2-3psi). Swapped in an electric pusher pump and psi is now rock steady at 5.5psi.
drobertson
Well-Known Member
I don't understand why so many guys here love the holley... imo it's junk. At least the basic 4150 series. I have had several... pita to adjust, and float bowls are always leaking. Never had an issue with my edelbrocks. Much easier to adjust the a/f ratio, just pull off the air cleaner.... change a metering rod or spring or whatever. No side gaskets to leak, either. Love them!
miller
Well-Known Member
10 years use of any carb, doesn't matter what brand, really should warrant an overhaul. Too many little details involved, such as being dirty, old gaskets, worn needles and seats, and so on. That's not even mentioning all the other parts in the fuel system involved. That old...everything needs to be at least looked at, to expect it to operate right. Might be exactly what you need, Hanover Mopar.
I've fooled with both AFBs, and Holleys...it gets down to a matter of preference, what works for you.
AFBs (and Edelbrocks) are a simple, but effective design, easy to work on. Just me, but Holleys are way more complicated design, takes alot more tuning...not needed. At least not for me.
But, like I've always said, pick your own poison!
miller
Well-Known Member
btw...I'm NOT running a spacer. Am using a so-called insulator gasket (offered by Edelbrock), on an aluminum intake...two 600cfm Eddys. Heat crossover blocked.
No signs of boiling fuel here.
No signs of boiling fuel here.
Hanover Mopar
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the help. Will keep digging and report back.
lewtot184
Well-Known Member
did you remove the filter from the suction side of the pump? have you examined the fuel pump push rod for wear?
dvw
Well-Known Member
Did you determine if it is actually filling the intake with fuel? It's easy to look down the throttle bores and see if fuel is dripping after shut down. If it is, the steps I outlined earlier should cure it. Now if it's out of fuel in the bowls that's a different issue. Might even be ignition. I recently chased a AVS hard start hot problem for friend. Turned out the distributor pick-up coil to reluctor clearance was .060". I was amazed it ran as good as it did. It was a hot start issue only. Root cause, then repair.
Doug
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