• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

What 4 Link to choose?

If you plan to run big tires you will have to get a spring relocation kit in conjunction with the rear kit from GTS.
On my 70 Roadrunner, I may mini tub.
What does a "spring relocation kit" with the Gerst triangulated rear suspension look like or do compared to a relocation kit for leaf springs?
 
He offers an inboard lower bar setup, so you can use with a mini tub and leaf kit to gain as much room as possible for tire size.
 
and leaf kit
That's the part I don't understand. If you have a triangulated rear suspension, from Gerst or RMS, aren't coilovers what replaces leaf springs?
Sorry if that's a dumb question, but this is my understanding.
 
63-75-Mopar-A-Body-Rear-Leaf-Spring-Re-Location-Kit-_1.jpg


This is what I mean by relocation kit, then with the inboard lower bar you gain tons of room. The top bars have no dog in the fight, the bottom if they mount in the stock location you wont get any better clearence.
 
I have yet to switch my car over from the leaves but here's my take after researching the options. I personally don't like heim links on a regular driver, to much vibration transfer and they're open to the elements.. I'd prefer poly bushings. As far as tri vs straight 4 link I don't think there's much difference except the tri gets rid of the need for a panhard bar. My other observation is all the kits are meant to be bolt in not correct, ideally the top and bottom links should be equal in length not a stubby upper arm but obviously many are running these setups so they must work fine so maybe that's not so important?? When I do switch mine out I'm going with a torque arm setup, to me it's a easier fit and very simple. I'd also look really hard at how the different kits fasten to the chassis, some have small coilover bars, others have cheesy ways of mounting the upper tri bars.. pick out something that looks well thought out and avoid problems down the road.
 
The RMS kit is actually a triangulated 4 link, the upper bars point inward. Can’t comment on the Gerst as I’ve never seen it or installed one.
 
I have yet to switch my car over from the leaves but here's my take after researching the options. I personally don't like heim links on a regular driver, to much vibration transfer and they're open to the elements.. I'd prefer poly bushings. As far as tri vs straight 4 link I don't think there's much difference except the tri gets rid of the need for a panhard bar. My other observation is all the kits are meant to be bolt in not correct, ideally the top and bottom links should be equal in length not a stubby upper arm but obviously many are running these setups so they must work fine so maybe that's not so important?? When I do switch mine out I'm going with a torque arm setup, to me it's a easier fit and very simple. I'd also look really hard at how the different kits fasten to the chassis, some have small coilover bars, others have cheesy ways of mounting the upper tri bars.. pick out something that looks well thought out and avoid problems down the road.

Torque arm is the best setup.
 
Is anyone making a torque arm kit for mopars? I haven’t seen any.
 
My understanding is that any 4 link that requires a panhard or watts bar precludes being able to use the stock fuel tank.
 
My understanding is that any 4 link that requires a panhard or watts bar precludes being able to use the stock fuel tank.
Watts link will require different gas tank. Panhard bar should clear the tank. Trianglulated link will clear due to the smaller upper arms. It also has the most articulation out of the two.
 
I run a 4 link with panard bar. It has worked good. I did have to plate the frame from all the G-force of racing a 4000# car.
I switched to heim joints when I fixed the tear in the frame. I didn't notice a lot of vibration in regular drivability. But the car is pretty stiff so kinda hard to comment on that.

DSC01820.JPG DSC01821.JPG IMG_0830_2.jpg IMG_0831_2.jpg IMG_0835_2.jpg
 
My understanding is that any 4 link that requires a panhard or watts bar precludes being able to use the stock fuel tank.

I think it depends on how you mount the panhard. I'm sticking with leafs but went with composite leafs and then fabbed up a panhard mount that mounts to extended differential bolts and the other end mounts to the old bump stop location. The whole unit set on top of the diff. right in front of the tank.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top