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70 RR Rallye cluster removal

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Apr 22, 2019
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Location
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I'm working on removing the Rallye Tach/Clock to see if I can get the clock back to working order and have reached a roadblock in removing the cluster.

I was able to drop the steering column, thanks to a previous thread.

Can anyone tell me how to drop steering column on a 1970 RR? I loosened the 3 bolts on the support bracket, but it isn't budging. What am I missing?? Trying to drop enough to get rallye gauges out.

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I removed the five screws from the cluster face, and four screws from the radio face. The left side of the cluster moves pretty freely, but the right side is still tight behind the lower trim piece under the radio.
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Do I need to remove the lower trim pieces to get the cluster out? Unfortunately, the service manual does not have the Rallye cluster removal instructions.
 
Assuming you have everything disconnected from the cluster the tab behind the radio bezel is keeping it from coming straight out.
 
Assuming you have everything disconnected from the cluster the tab behind the radio bezel is keeping it from coming straight out.
That's what it feels like and looks like, I'm just hesitant to force it for fear of cracking the old plastic.
 
That's what it feels like and looks like, I'm just hesitant to force it for fear of cracking the old plastic.
Both the radio bezel and the lower plastic piece are easy to remove. The lower has screws that can be accessed from under the dash. Pulling out the ash tray and tray receiver will give more access. Cluster should then pull right out.
 
I believe it is 2 screws that holds tack in. Why pull cluster if you only need the tack out. Fixing my clock and just going to pull tac.I did dash harness this year and yep it was a pain to pull cluster.
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Heck I was able to take my old clock out and install a new repro tach/clock without pulling the cluster in my 69 Superbee. I have had the cluster
out probably 4 times in 23 years I have had the car so that's why I new it would come out without pulling the whole dash cluster out.
 
Heck I was able to take my old clock out and install a new repro tach/clock without pulling the cluster in my 69 Superbee. I have had the cluster
out probably 4 times in 23 years I have had the car so that's why I new it would come out without pulling the whole dash cluster out.
Well, I'm too far down the road for that. I have pulled the cluster and found that wiring from the tac is securely pinched between two pieces of the steering column support bracket. I was able to disconnect the wires at the back of the tac and removed the three mounting screws.

Does the time set knob pull off? How do I pull the tac from the cluster with the time set knob poking through the plastic face?

Again, thanks for the help.
 
Well on the old clock I had was missing the knob so it was easy to pull straight out from behind. The new tic toc tack had a small
screw on the end of the knob and I'm not sure how the factory original tachs were rather or not they had a small screw inside the
knob that you just unscrew it and it comes off. The two or three screws was all that was holding it in the cluster and those you can get to
with a long phillips of course the knob has to be off before it can come out.
 
SUCCESS! Now to see if I can get it working.

This is all new to me. I was never that interested in cars. But things change when your father-in-law passes something like this to you. Grateful for the Mopar and grateful for your assistance.
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SUCCESS! Now to see if I can get it working.

This is all new to me. I was never that interested in cars. But things change when your father-in-law passes something like this to you. Grateful for the Mopar and grateful for your assistance.
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I'm going to suggest that you take that to a reputable clock repair shop - unless of course you have the necessary skills to DIY.

Install a quartz movement and use the same hands etc....the clock will go forever and be reasonably accurate for longer.
 
many say the points will burn again and the clock will stop. Do the digital since you already have it out.
 


Thanks again to everyone for their input. Once I got inside, I found it was simply a broken main spring. The contacts were in the open position and were in pristine condition. So I decided to re-loop the spring and keep the original parts in place. To keep the contacts in good condition, I plan to keep it unplugged unless I want to show it off. Back to life after about 40 years.

I also found that the dimmer switch had been bypassed at some point, with a paper clip used to jump around it. I got that back in order and installed new instrument panel bulbs, so I now have dimmable lights and an operable dome light switch. I hope to stay out of the dash for a long time.
 
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